Tell me this isn't happening!!

[cootertwo]

Just a note, While at the dealership I bought my 2013 from, I noticed one of Triumph's smaller bikes, (speed triple or something), all torn apart on one of the lifts. I asked what was going on with it. Mechanic said customer had brought it back in cause the black paint was flaking off the block. Triumph warrantied it by sending them a new block. Block only, they were having to completely swap everything from the old block to the new block. What a pain!

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Just a note, While at the dealership I bought my 2013 from, I noticed one of Triumph's smaller bikes, (speed triple or something), all torn apart on one of the lifts. I asked what was going on with it. Mechanic said customer had brought it back in cause the black paint was flaking off the block. Triumph warrantied it by sending them a new block. Block only, they were having to completely swap everything from the old block to the new block. What a pain!

This would worry me. Replacing the cases involves matching the crank diameters to the main bores using varying thickness bearing shells, to get the proper clearance for lubrication. Its a very time consuming job. You have to put plastigage on all the bearings, put cases together, torque bolts to spec, take back apart. Measure plastigage, if not correct, calculate difference, fit new corrected size bearing shells, wash rinse repeat until its correct. A set of bearing shells probably runs a hundred bucks. Its the kinda job you want the most OCD mo-fo you can find doing. Not some chump tire changer.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

@Rocket Scientist I see that sealer -- how does that work ? (in the context of the Rocket, since you know them inside out)[/QUOTE]

Case sealing products are usually a type of shellac. They are supposed to wick into the crack/porous spots and then harden. Years ago I worked in a factory that made M60 tank engines. They were a V12 single overhead cam air cooled diesel. The aluminum cylinders were individual. After machining, the heads were shipped to another company called Sealmore where they were pressure impregnated with some type of shellac to fill any voids in the casting.

 

[Bedifferent]

I sure hope you don't have a problem. I have used JB weld to repair high pressure water pumps but I am not sure if it could hold up in a heat application.

That is the question I have to ask. My research says it is good up to 300 degrees. They make a putty that is even higher. I found a product called Blue Magic Quick Steel high temperature that is good up to 2400 degrees. There are several options out there. Still looking.

 

[Joesmoe]

Please keep us posted.

 

[Navigator]

I will mention once again Yamabond #4. Honda makes a similar product, Hondabond #4. Both are gray and I saw that Permatex now has a similar product.

We started using in the early 90s to seal vintage Triumph engine cases which are notorious leakers. And old time Triumph mechanic told me about it and used it on my 1967 TR6C when he rebuilt the lower end. I have since used it on Triumph base gaskets and case covers, along with, Harley shovelhead and Evo inner and outer primary gaskets. One puts a thin layer on both the gasket and the machined case. Let it dry for about 20 minutes and then bring them together.

When you want to break them apart, squirt carb cleaner around the perimeter and tap with a rubber mallet. The cases will easily separate .To remove the residual, apply carb cleaner and it is easily removed with a plastic scraper. Unlike other sealers, such as those with silicones, it does not squeeze out and into the engine. It's great stuff and I've never had a leak with it.

I will use it on my Touring valve cover when putting it back together after the first valve adjust.

 

[sonny]

Good stuff

 

[geno]

I notice some oil wetting around my cylinder head below the VC gasket and near the chain tensioner. The oil does not appear to be coming from VC gasket. Upon close examination it looks like it may be a casting porosity issue with head and oil seeping to the surface. My search on the forum has yielded some information on this subject.

My 2015 R3T is not under warranty anymore and I bought it in Virginia so I would have to deal with a dealer in Grand Rapids where I bought my 2013 which was totaled in 15. I suspect I will be screwed with Triumph doing anything about the head if this is the issue. I will be looking for the best fix.

The picture shows the area I am talking about. I have throughly clean and dried the area in the picture so you "will not" see any oil. When I sprayed the area with a can of air oil seemed to seep or be coming out of the finish in the area. It could be residual but I don't know yet.

I will try and take it for another ride today and see if I can pinpoint more specfically the area the oil is coming from. It's not bad at the moment but there is an issue. More pictures to follow as I work my way through the problem.

Bro i must say, and i could be wrong; But this don't look like an oil leak to my eyes, it looks more like normal paint bubbling from engine heat, I believe if you get rid of your cat-box she should run much cooler! "Be Safe"

 

[Neville Lush]

I see this is very near the bolt hole for one of the valve cover hold down bolts. Make sure the oil is not coming out of the bottom of the hold down bolt thread.... I have just had this happen on a R3. Looks like even the same hole

 

[1olbull]

I sure hope you don't have a problem. I have used JB weld to repair high pressure water pumps but I am not sure if it could hold up in a heat application.

Worked for my radiator and its temps.
Just sayin' . . .