TC, Clutch and how it all works......according to Triumph

Rock Ape

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Aug 30, 2020
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Rocket 3 R
I thought I would add this here as a separate thread for those interested that aren't following the clutch issues thread. I spoke with Triumph and here's how they explain things with the R 3;

"Traction Control works with the computers that are looking at wheel speed, one the wheel speed is different ( wheel stand / burn out any thing that makes one wheel faster or slower ) that’s when the Traction Control kicks in. now when traction control is engaged the ECU detects this and adj the power to engine or ABS does it’s thing In ABS.

Basically Traction Control and ABS detect wheel speed and to adj. accordingly. Now in all Triumph use what we call a Torque Assist clutch, what a Torque Assist Clutch does is it applies more or less pressure on the clutch plates depending on how much power you are trying to put to the ground. ( when the power is on hard the harder pressure is on the clutch plate ) (off the power less pressure on the clutch ). Now when power is on and the traction control is engaged then pressure on the clutch does momentarily lesson until the required wheel speed is achieved then the traction control then goes back to not engaged.

Now when some tries to do a wheel stand or burn out with the traction control is on and said person keeps trying repeatedly it can cause the clutch to jump In and out and make the clutch vibrate overheat and slip, once the clutch slips it will continue to slip until you back out of it . or when it vibrates violently it can brake a clutch plate then you loose all drive. ( this is what happened to the one on the press launch and according to the photo’s I have been supplied yours )

Now you might say that this a fault, Big bike , A lot of power, why not put a regular clutch in it . when operated properly the Torque Assist Clutch is the strongest clutch you can use. It has many benefits like a very light clutch feel for a 2.5 litre 221 nm of torque.it achieves this by only using 3 clutch spring compared to most clutches that 5 or 6 springs it can do this due to the ramp set up in the Slip Assist set up. It also operates as a slipper clutch so when you down shift into a lower gear than maybe you should have, it stops the back from locking up under engine braking. The lighter clutch lever reduces rider fatigue delivers a smooth operating clutch delivery when starting and stopping as well as being able to handle the power of the Rocket 3 and the rest of the Triumph range deliver to it.

If we remember to turn the Traction Control off we can do wheel stands and burn outs without any damaging the clutch as we proved on the press launch a well because we had about 8 bikes there on the race track all of them were doing hot starts wheel stands and burn outs and we only broke the one that the journo forgot to turn it off ( more than once I might ad ) names withheld".
 
I thought I would add this here as a separate thread for those interested that aren't following the clutch issues thread. I spoke with Triumph and here's how they explain things with the R 3;

"Traction Control works with the computers that are looking at wheel speed, one the wheel speed is different ( wheel stand / burn out any thing that makes one wheel faster or slower ) that’s when the Traction Control kicks in. now when traction control is engaged the ECU detects this and adj the power to engine or ABS does it’s thing In ABS.

Basically Traction Control and ABS detect wheel speed and to adj. accordingly. Now in all Triumph use what we call a Torque Assist clutch, what a Torque Assist Clutch does is it applies more or less pressure on the clutch plates depending on how much power you are trying to put to the ground. ( when the power is on hard the harder pressure is on the clutch plate ) (off the power less pressure on the clutch ). Now when power is on and the traction control is engaged then pressure on the clutch does momentarily lesson until the required wheel speed is achieved then the traction control then goes back to not engaged.

Now when some tries to do a wheel stand or burn out with the traction control is on and said person keeps trying repeatedly it can cause the clutch to jump In and out and make the clutch vibrate overheat and slip, once the clutch slips it will continue to slip until you back out of it . or when it vibrates violently it can brake a clutch plate then you loose all drive. ( this is what happened to the one on the press launch and according to the photo’s I have been supplied yours )

Now you might say that this a fault, Big bike , A lot of power, why not put a regular clutch in it . when operated properly the Torque Assist Clutch is the strongest clutch you can use. It has many benefits like a very light clutch feel for a 2.5 litre 221 nm of torque.it achieves this by only using 3 clutch spring compared to most clutches that 5 or 6 springs it can do this due to the ramp set up in the Slip Assist set up. It also operates as a slipper clutch so when you down shift into a lower gear than maybe you should have, it stops the back from locking up under engine braking. The lighter clutch lever reduces rider fatigue delivers a smooth operating clutch delivery when starting and stopping as well as being able to handle the power of the Rocket 3 and the rest of the Triumph range deliver to it.

If we remember to turn the Traction Control off we can do wheel stands and burn outs without any damaging the clutch as we proved on the press launch a well because we had about 8 bikes there on the race track all of them were doing hot starts wheel stands and burn outs and we only broke the one that the journo forgot to turn it off ( more than once I might ad ) names withheld".
Only three clutch springs? Uh Oh! I would take a heavier clutch pull for a better clamp on the plates. After all you have a hydraulic clutch.
 
WoW! way too much electrical interference in my opinion. Wonder how long before Barnett or someone else, comes out with a kit for the new Rockets. Also I'll add, the more I read about this new model, the more I feel sad. Seems, and looks as if NOTHING is compatible with our original Rockets. Guess some could call it progress, I call it "sad". 😢
 
WoW! way too much electrical interference in my opinion. Wonder how long before Barnett or someone else, comes out with a kit for the new Rockets. Also I'll add, the more I read about this new model, the more I feel sad. Seems, and looks as if NOTHING is compatible with our original Rockets. Guess some could call it progress, I call it "sad". 😢
I dreamed of owning a Rocket 3 for as long as I could remember.

Finally pulled the pin and did it a few months ago. If you followed my last thread, the rest as they say is history. I expect soon I may have had it in my garage for less time than it has been in the workshop waiting for parts and $2000 (AUD) worse off for a new bike I had just bought.
 
Just further. You can't ride with TC on if you want to do the occasional fast take off at the lights. It just cuts in too fast. A couple of times, (not that at 54 I am a hoon) that I had taken off quick for whatever reason, TC cut in, bogs the bike down and that's the end of the quick take off. There is no way to my knowledge to make it less sensitive.
 
Just further. You can't ride with TC on if you want to do the occasional fast take off at the lights. It just cuts in too fast. A couple of times, (not that at 54 I am a hoon) that I had taken off quick for whatever reason, TC cut in, bogs the bike down and that's the end of the quick take off. There is no way to my knowledge to make it less sensitive.
Can you imagine what this will be like out of warranty several years from now, the electrics on mine (2005) have given me enough headaches ,can’t think what this will be like to live with.
 
Only three clutch springs? Uh Oh! I would take a heavier clutch pull for a better clamp on the plates. After all you have a hydraulic clutch.

The springs in a torque assist clutch are really only locators and therefore are lighter and fewer than in a conventional clutch. The plates are pulled together by angled splines on the basket ends; the more torque applied, the stronger the squeeze (clamp”) on the plates. Conversely, when you decelerate, there’s less squeeze on the plates, eliminating/reducing rear wheel lock-up. These clutches are stronger and more robust than conventional clutches, and for example, proven to last 2 or 3 times longer in race bikes than “conventional” clutches. They’re not electronic trickery but good old fashioned physics and a real example of “ why didn’t someone think of it before“.

It seems that due to some of the other electronics on these bikes the initial slip before full torque is applied gets a jolt when the TC kicks in if you’re, say, doing a burn out, and the progressive “squeeze” isn’t sufficient to fully grab the clutch plates. They then keep slipping and this has the potential to burn out the clutch. Hence the warning not to do it.
 
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