Switched wiring for GPS

I've mounted a Garmin Zumo to my Rocket and ran the wiring all the way to the battery. But I'd rather splice those wires into something that turns on and off with the ignition, so I don't run the risk of leaving on the GPS and using up all my battery.

There seems to be quite a few wires behind the left hand side panel just behind the gas tank, where the accessory socket would be if I had one. That panel is pretty easy to get to, which is another plus. Can anyone tell me which wires (colors and location please) would serve my purpose?

Thanks much. I appreciate all of the feedback I get from this forum.

If you don't have heated handgrips, the plug for them is under the tank. That is what I powered my Autocom system with and it is switched. I couldn't begin to tell you what color but I found it by the wiring diagram in the service manual and poking around under the tank.

Just an idea..

The number 8 fuse (a 5 Amp) is the instrument illumination fuse. Probe that with your test light and you will see that it switches on and off with the the ignition switch. Pull that fuse out... run down to an auto parts store, tell them you want a little tang that will allow you to tap into that fuse (it is basically just a little metal strip that slides into the socket along with the male prongs of the fuse, but you can attach a wire to it), and just use that. Pretty simple, no cutting wires, and if you use your test light and put the tang on the fused side your GPS will even be fused. I would still put an inline fuse in that circuit, motorcycles get hot and vibrate and are hell on wires.

You could also probe around under your side covers with your test light but stay away from the right side... the ECM is there and a wrong move on your part could toast it.

If you know how to lift the gas tank you could look under there and find the sub harness for the ignition switch and tap into that....

The fuse setup would be easiest and safest .....

Pig9r said:

If you don't have heated handgrips, the plug for them is under the tank. That is what I powered my Autocom system with and it is switched. I couldn't begin to tell you what color but I found it by the wiring diagram in the service manual and poking around under the tank.

Click to expand...

How complicated is it to lift the tank? Must it be empty?

The tank doesn't need to be empty. It can be done in just a couple of minutes.

Download the manual if you haven't. Page 11.098 will tell you how better than I could here.

http://www.britishchopper.com/modul...&POSTNUKESID=58bde91d7e4f41c23e6310d6ec12a859

**If you have an '06 or newer you do not need to lift the speedo and tach.

Got it. Thanks. Two more questions —

1. If I disconnect the battery, won't my factory alarm go berserk?

2. I have an 07. That means I can leave the handlebar clamp cover and instruments alone, leaving the following steps?

A. Disconnect the battery
B. Take off the bearclaw (held on by two screws)
C. Unscrew the single fixing bolt at the front of the fuel tank
D. Pivot the tank and prop up using the rod

That appears to be correct. I've lifted my gas tank dozens of times without disconnecting the battery. If you are careful and use a little common sense you can safely lift the tank without disconnecting the battery.

Basically, the tank is on a hinge, this hinge is at the rear of the tank. You remove the bearclaw, because if you don't, the bearclaw won't clear the intake plenum. Remove the bolt at the very front of the tank and the tank and you can now lift the front of the tank, it will pivot up on the hinge. On the right side of your frame, above the motor and below the gas tank, you will find a prop wand that is held in place by two plastic snaps. Pull this out, insert the straight end in the bolt hole (where you just removed that forward bolt) and the plastic end goes in the hole in the tank, the propwand now holds your tank up.

It is easier to do with as little gas as possible, but you can do it with a full tank, 6 gallons of gas is pretty heavy. You don't need to drain it or disconnect any fuel lines.

I'm not sure about the factory alarm... it might go wacky when you reconnect the battery, you will probably have to reset it at that point. If you don't disconnect the battery you shouldn't have any problems.

Since you might not disconnect the battery I would have a 10 mm wrench handy just in case something should happen and you could pull a cable quickly. Its not a bad idea to work out in your driveway and always have a fire extinguisher handy.

I'm just trying to be safe here... you never know who reads this stuff. Its a pretty easy job to lift the tank and I don't think anyone has ever had any problems doing it..

Pay attention to how the rod is held into place. There is a little nub on the rob that lines up with the clips that hold it into place. Putting it in wrong could cause it to rattle or fly out.

I suggest as little fuel in the tank as possible. I propped 'er up with perhaps 3/4 to full and had leakage.

Will the factory alarm going berserk with the battery disconnected? That may depend on whether or not the alarm has a supplemental power source, wouldn't it. Sorry that's no help.

'07 Classic? If so, then yes. If not, then again I'm no help.

Is the accessory socket on the bearclaw side always hot, or switched with the bike?