Speedometer, Display, Warning light went nuts, now everything is dead.

Hi everyone.

I bought a 2010 Triumph Rocket 3 Touring with 20,000 miles on it about six weeks ago. Just getting used to it and starting to like it. I installed a tachometer on it right away and rode it for about 400 miles or so with no problems till about last week when I had this strange thing with the display and tachometer. When I was riding along or stopped at a light idling, the tachometer maxed out at 8000+ RPM, and the instrument display went crazy, for lack of a better explanation. The speedometer went to zero, all the warning lights were flashing/flickering on and off, the clock and led displays went crazy or just went blank. The engine was cutting out when this was going on. I was able to turn around and make it home, the last two blocks everything worked fine.
I have not had the bike very long before installing the tachometer so I haven’t had a chance to get a feel for things. I removed the tachometer connections to see if it might be the problem (it wasn't). The next day everything seemed normal. I took it out for a block, forgot my phone so I came back and turned it off. Then when I turned the ignition switch on I got nothing! I just took everything apart and checked the battery and connections, reconnected the big plug under the tank that goes to the speedo and display and I still get NOTHING when I turn the ignition on. Help. I’m about ready to kick this thing to the curb and go back to my trusty Kawasaki. (or take it in to a dealer to fix it, but HOW to get it there. Ugg. They are all about 50 miles away.)

Anybody out there that has had this happen? Is a Triumph shop my best bet?

Thanks!!

PS. It looks like the ignition switch is buried under the frame and way hard to get to (if that might be the problem).

The switch is actually nicely accessible once you prop the tank up. But it's riveted in. But do check the battery connections and load test the battery. R3T's are VERY sensitive to battery connection and condition, and if at any point it becomes unhappy, it just stops. Once you have a fresh battery and very snug connection, it should be reliable as anything.

Okay. Tried the switch today and it turned on, the Tach swept, engine started and ran about 30 seconds to a minute and things went crazy again.
Did that twice, now nothing at all when I turn the key on. Might be the vibration knocking something loose or a heated wire that is acting up.
I have some things to try that Bedifferent sent me, a post by DEcosse, and swap some relays to see if they might be the problem.
I checked the ignition plug (I think that's the one) and looks like someone before me has been in there. One of the wires has been cut out.

Here some pics of that:

I don't know what is going on there, but I can probably rule that out as the problem.

I'll try again tomorrow. I'll be ordering the EB relay bypass and install that before I put everything back together.

The blue/white wire has been cut out because in the past its overheated and damaged the connection in the plug.Check the 30 amp main fuse I've had a couple of problems with it in the past.

The 2010 Roadster initially had the same electrical config as the Earlier (pre-Roadster) models which has the Headlight Current through the Key-Switch
Yours has obviously suffered burned terminals on the connector and was bypassed.
Thing is, the 2010 had a recall to install a retrofit relay that bypasses the current to the headlights OUT of the key-switch circuit.
Yours may have not had this done and you initially had the connector failure and now have the key-switch failure.
You should not need EB bypass kit and instead have the recall which should be done by Triumph at no charge (if not already)
Regardless, the EB kit will not FIX the fault, only stop it from happening again if you replace the switch.
And the EB kit is superflous if the recall has already been (or will be) done (but sounds like it probably has not)

rocketjohn said:

The switch is actually nicely accessible once you prop the tank up. But it's riveted in. ....

Click to expand...

It's not actually riveted - they are bolts however they are sheer bolts, where the heads snap off on assembly
So they will actually screw out if you can make some slots in them (otherwise you would drill the rest of the head off and then replace with a regular screw)

EDIT - Whoops! Scratch most of that - don't know why I misread & thought was Roadster

The switch may have failed, especially if non-std bulb has been used in the headlight (or additional lights wired into the OEM circuit)
But much rarer to fail on a Touring (although HAVE seen that connector fail)

I have a post on here for a very simple bypass for the headlight with a single relay.
I can find that for you ...........

FYI - Triumph Quit Ignoring Your Ignition Problems
That same mod will work for your Touring

Also see this post - it shows the problem with the key-switch and how you can repair it
Has the ignition problem been fixed ?

Lastly, If you want to replace the connector, see the third- & fourth-down items here - 8-way Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic

Okay, got the ignition switch off. As DEcosse said they are bolts. I used some vice-grips to get them started and voila, they came right out. Then I went to the hardware store and bought some Phillips head bolts to replace them.
The ignition joints were solid. I think I can can rule that out. I checked the voltage across the fuses. Strange. I only got 2.59 volts across the ones that should have 12 with the key off. With the key on, they barely registered. About .01 volts. I think I did get some across Fuse 5 (key on) but very little.
I got nothing at the alarm bypass plug. I even took the plug apart and tested the female sockets for the looped wires. Nothing.

Still have not swap tested the relays yet...

The battery shows a standing voltage of about 12.89 volts.
I'm just about to think it may be the battery. The dealer said it was a new one, but the bike did sit in their warehouse for about 8 months before I bought it.
I'll pull the battery and take it in to Batteries Plus and have them test it. I may be overthinking the whole thing.

Starmanut said:

... I checked the voltage across the fuses. Strange. I only got 2.59 volts across the ones that should have 12 with the key off. With the key on, they barely registered. About .01 volts. I think I did get some across Fuse 5 (key on) but very little.
....

Click to expand...

If I take your post literally you do not measure ACROSS the Fuse - you would EXPECT to get 0V ACROSS a fuse*
What you need to do is measure from Ground TO the Fuse;
take your meter negative probe and leave that on the battery negative;
then touch the positive probe to the metal tabs on top of the Fuse - it should read the same on both sides of fuse (if only on one side the fuse is blown)

With Key On, you should have 12V to both sides of fuses 5 & 9
Be sure to wiggle the harness at the switch to see if it breaks or not

*Note that having zero volts ACROSS the fuse does not tell you anything about whether there is 12V there or not; only that the fuse is likely not blown.

Maybe this simple wiring diagram will help you, You should be getting at least 12v at the fuses if the battery registered 12v.

DEcosse said:

If I take your post literally you do not measure ACROSS the Fuse - you would EXPECT to get 0V ACROSS a fuse*
What you need to do is measure from Ground TO the Fuse;
take your meter negative probe and leave that on the battery negative;
then touch the positive probe to the metal tabs on top of the Fuse - it should read the same on both sides of fuse (if only on one side the fuse is blown)

With Key On, you should have 12V to both sides of fuses 5 & 9
Be sure to wiggle the harness at the switch to see if it breaks or not

*Note that having zero volts ACROSS the fuse does not tell you anything about whether there is 12V there or not; only that the fuse is likely not blown.

Click to expand...

My bad. "across" was not a good choice of words. I did have the negative probe on the battery ground. Got the same 2.9 volts on each side of the fuse. And no voltage on fuses 5 and 9. I had the ignition switch out of the frame and pushed and shoved the wired bundle going into it. Made sure the kill switch was on, too.
I have no idea why the voltage was so low on the fuses, either. I have a cheap voltmeter, but it registered 12+ volts at the battery.

Thanks again for the input!!

Might be the switch?