scot in exile
Living Legend
I blame your paint job
Triumphs do not like looking as pretty as your bike does.
Triumphs do not like looking as pretty as your bike does.
Rocket III Help
- Thread starter TxRIIIRider
- Start date
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- rocket iii
Lonzol
Supercharged
Forgot to add, after I did the connectors, I did the 12 minute tune, it definetly made a big difference. Good Luck!
Lonnie
Lonnie
TxRIIIRider
Living Legend
Well.. I cleaned and crimped all the connectors to the coils as well as all other plugs in the area, but to no avail. I am really leaning toward the TPS.. I know it's not the typical symptom, but it runs like the ECU doesn't know how much fuel to send..
One good thing.. This has forced me to get my Trophy 1200 on the road. Just waiting on the bits to rebuild the fuel petcock and a carb synch, and she should be back on the road..
One good thing.. This has forced me to get my Trophy 1200 on the road. Just waiting on the bits to rebuild the fuel petcock and a carb synch, and she should be back on the road..
SculptedThought
.020 Over
I've got this same issue. How can a bike run so poorly and not illuminate the "check engine" light? Hellfire's response makes sense, saying ECU's "don't taddle on themselves", but this thing REALLY runs bad at idle.
Here's a strange chain of events;
-bought used bike that ran great. 4k miles later it won't idle on its own.
-discover an O2 delete kit was installed, so I upload the 20050Dyno tune w/ TuneECU and delete the O2 input. The bike ran perfect, but was now getting bad fuel mileage (@24mpg).
-I hook up the O2 sensor and allow the ECU to read it by re-"checking" the O2 icon in TuneECU. Bike still ran great but bad fuel mileage remained.
-About 500 miles later the galloping idle begins. Within 2 days it will no longer idle on its own and spits and coughs. I noticed yesterday that when cruising at 2500 rpm there is an intermittent loss of power, as though a gust of wind comes against me shortly every few minutes.
-Re-upload the 20050Dyno tune and the bike idles on its own once again, for only a few minutes. It then returns to running crappy. And no trouble codes..
This has me wondering if there is a worn spot at this position of the throttle position sensor, and perhaps in the idle position as well. But if so, why is this intermittent?
Maybe I'll try putting an ohm meter on the leads of the TPS and rolling the throttle slowly, looking for open spots along is wiper travel.
WTF is going on here?
Sometimes I miss my old carbureted bikes!
Here's a strange chain of events;
-bought used bike that ran great. 4k miles later it won't idle on its own.
-discover an O2 delete kit was installed, so I upload the 20050Dyno tune w/ TuneECU and delete the O2 input. The bike ran perfect, but was now getting bad fuel mileage (@24mpg).
-I hook up the O2 sensor and allow the ECU to read it by re-"checking" the O2 icon in TuneECU. Bike still ran great but bad fuel mileage remained.
-About 500 miles later the galloping idle begins. Within 2 days it will no longer idle on its own and spits and coughs. I noticed yesterday that when cruising at 2500 rpm there is an intermittent loss of power, as though a gust of wind comes against me shortly every few minutes.
-Re-upload the 20050Dyno tune and the bike idles on its own once again, for only a few minutes. It then returns to running crappy. And no trouble codes..
This has me wondering if there is a worn spot at this position of the throttle position sensor, and perhaps in the idle position as well. But if so, why is this intermittent?
Maybe I'll try putting an ohm meter on the leads of the TPS and rolling the throttle slowly, looking for open spots along is wiper travel.
WTF is going on here?
Sometimes I miss my old carbureted bikes!
SculptedThought
.020 Over
Forgot to mention that I reset the TPS every time I've used TuneECU, and also checked the crankshaft position sensor to be sure it was clean.
TxRIIIRider
Living Legend
Sounds very much like mine right now.. I'm going to try and test the coils this weekend.. leaning towards ordering a TPS next pay day..
atomsplitter
Living Legend
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- 17 T-120 Black, 20 Bobber Blk, 22 Speed Triple RS
Replace your TPS. When yu start the bike (unlike carb engines) you don't move the throttle AT ALL. The TPS sends a signal the throttle is off. What if you open the throttle when you start? The ECU assumes the TPS signal is in the "off" condition and adjusts accordingly. Let go an watch the engine do amazing things as it starves for fuel.
If your tune uploads only temporarily fix the problem the ECU is recalibrating based on sensor inputs as time goes by. You have to start somewhere to find the culprit so starting with the most likely candidate for your problem makes sense.
A note on coils. A coil going bad can also be intermittent. When cold the coil can work fine, but when you heat it up and the metal coils begin to expand a broken band can stop the coil from firing. You can check you spark leads in a dark (blacked out) garage by starting the engine and looking for sparks jumping to ground from the wires (it's quite a light show on old and cracked leads). You can't hear it but you can definately see it. If you have one bad coil you can find it by lifting the spark plug wires while the engine is running. There are three coils, two leads each to the spark plugs in a single cylinder. Pull the plug wires from the #1 cylinder and just rest them on the spark plugs and start the engine. At idle lift the wires and see if the idle changes (a.k.a the engine dies). It's that simple. When you do that and the engine isn't affected you have your bad coil. Some might think using a temperature probe on the exhaust header would also work (since the piston affected isn't firing). That works great for individual headers, but the Rocket's (including ALL after-market) pipes go to a collector so temps will be fairly uniform.
To make it easy you can just replace all three coils and wire sets and call it a day, but that gets to be pricey. I replaced both my coils on my Trophy with the Nology coils fitted to the Bonneville because they were the same part number. I haven't lookied into Rocket coils but I would guess the parts are similarly binned.
If your tune uploads only temporarily fix the problem the ECU is recalibrating based on sensor inputs as time goes by. You have to start somewhere to find the culprit so starting with the most likely candidate for your problem makes sense.
A note on coils. A coil going bad can also be intermittent. When cold the coil can work fine, but when you heat it up and the metal coils begin to expand a broken band can stop the coil from firing. You can check you spark leads in a dark (blacked out) garage by starting the engine and looking for sparks jumping to ground from the wires (it's quite a light show on old and cracked leads). You can't hear it but you can definately see it. If you have one bad coil you can find it by lifting the spark plug wires while the engine is running. There are three coils, two leads each to the spark plugs in a single cylinder. Pull the plug wires from the #1 cylinder and just rest them on the spark plugs and start the engine. At idle lift the wires and see if the idle changes (a.k.a the engine dies). It's that simple. When you do that and the engine isn't affected you have your bad coil. Some might think using a temperature probe on the exhaust header would also work (since the piston affected isn't firing). That works great for individual headers, but the Rocket's (including ALL after-market) pipes go to a collector so temps will be fairly uniform.
To make it easy you can just replace all three coils and wire sets and call it a day, but that gets to be pricey. I replaced both my coils on my Trophy with the Nology coils fitted to the Bonneville because they were the same part number. I haven't lookied into Rocket coils but I would guess the parts are similarly binned.
TxRIIIRider
Living Legend
I have the Nology coils on my Trophy also.. yes the Rocket coils are very expensive.. soemthng like $135 a piece.. I will try checking them that way this weekend as well..
SculptedThought
.020 Over
Replace your TPS. When yu start the bike (unlike carb engines) you don't move the throttle AT ALL. The TPS sends a signal the throttle is off. What if you open the throttle when you start? The ECU assumes the TPS signal is in the "off" condition and adjusts accordingly. Let go an watch the engine do amazing things as it starves for fuel.
If your tune uploads only temporarily fix the problem the ECU is recalibrating based on sensor inputs as time goes by. You have to start somewhere to find the culprit so starting with the most likely candidate for your problem makes sense.
A note on coils. A coil going bad can also be intermittent. When cold the coil can work fine, but when you heat it up and the metal coils begin to expand a broken band can stop the coil from firing. You can check you spark leads in a dark (blacked out) garage by starting the engine and looking for sparks jumping to ground from the wires (it's quite a light show on old and cracked leads). You can't hear it but you can definately see it. If you have one bad coil you can find it by lifting the spark plug wires while the engine is running. There are three coils, two leads each to the spark plugs in a single cylinder. Pull the plug wires from the #1 cylinder and just rest them on the spark plugs and start the engine. At idle lift the wires and see if the idle changes (a.k.a the engine dies). It's that simple. When you do that and the engine isn't affected you have your bad coil. Some might think using a temperature probe on the exhaust header would also work (since the piston affected isn't firing). That works great for individual headers, but the Rocket's (including ALL after-market) pipes go to a collector so temps will be fairly uniform.
To make it easy you can just replace all three coils and wire sets and call it a day, but that gets to be pricey. I replaced both my coils on my Trophy with the Nology coils fitted to the Bonneville because they were the same part number. I haven't lookied into Rocket coils but I would guess the parts are similarly binned.
Thanks for the advice, Atomsplitter. I didn't get time to put an ohm meter to the TPS today, but did try uploading the tune again since Tom Hamburg just released the latest version of TuneECU. The bike tried idling better, but still quite low. I took a ride around town and it got progressively worse. I know not to use any throttle when starting a fuel injected bike, but if I don't, it will not start at all.
Right now it sputters and backfires out the intake at any RPM under 1500. I'm truly amazed that there are no error codes. WTF?!?!
I used an infrared thermometer on the exhaust flanges from a cold start. They all began warming immediately the same. After a ride they were still equal.
I'll just order a TPS -right now!
TxRIIIRider
Living Legend
Our bikes sound like we have exactly the same issue.. I am having to wait to order a TPS, but will be ordering one weekend after next..
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