Rivco Risers How to R3T (pic heavy)

[Jag]

Have to check mine still in box unopened!!
Maybe that’s why they were so cheap???

 

[rcket3]

I got two sets. Have fitted one but will check the second which is as yet unopened. I better check them but both felt the same weight.
I phoned them when I ordered and they were super friendly and very helpful so if you are missing bits I would let them know.
I haven't had a decent ride yet but certainly seem to have improved the riding position for a short hop.

 

[DodahMan]

I decided to put some risers on my R3T today and when searching there wasn't a lot about how to do it, plenty on how good it is but that is about it.

So here is a condensed version of the steps.

1) The Rivco instructions are pretty good, to a certain point. As always we know that the best intentions may leave out a few things.

First, gather some tools, along with a set of Allen wrenches and socket set/wrenches you will need;

• 14mm Socket or wrench to remove the original risers.
• 17mm socket or wrench to bolt on new risers.
• Home made short 12mm wrench to loosen the nuts on the lower end of the clutch cable. It could actually be smaller and thinner.

Now it is time to start taking things apart.

• Start by removing the left hand side of the radiator shroud. There are 3 allen head bolts that need to come out. The one on the top left and the two on the left side. You can see why here, if you take it off you can access the clutch cable much easier.

Once the Shroud is off you will need to remove the screen, which is held on with one bolt. Once off you have pretty good access to the bottom of the clutch cable.

Now you can use the special wrench or whatever you have to loosen the bottom nut on the clutch cable so you can move it when taking the clutch cable out of the clutch handle.

Go back to the top of the bike and adjust the clutch cable for as much slack as you can get and remove it from the handle. Now that it is sticking up in the air you can remove one bolt from the frame cover and snake the clutch cable down so it can be positioned behind the triple tree.

Once the cable is rerouted you can screw the cover back in place over the clutch cable.

Now that the preliminary stuff is done it is time to swap out the risers.

Make sure you have covered your tank and headlights with your wife's best comforters because she is already pissed you spent nearly 200 dollars for these things, you may as well put the icing on the cake.

Remove the original end cap/s by removing the plastic plugs and then taking the allen bolts out. If you don't have help just take your time and hold onto things so the handle bars don't fall off and into the shiny or painted parts.

Once the end cap is off lay the handle bars onto your wife's comforter that is covering the tank.

The bolts on the original risers need to be removed. You will need a 14mm wrench at this point for the nuts under the triple tree. When removing the original risers keep the large washers on top of the triple tree in place and do not lose the large, thick washer from the underside of the triple tree, you will need them for the install.

Once the original risers are off put the new ones in place and using the supplied 17mm bolt and lock washer along with the retained original washers hand tighten the risers.

Now all you have to do is put the handlebars in the new risers, bolt on the endcaps to hold the bars in place, go back and tighten the bolts for the risers then adjust your handle bars to where you want them, reinstall the clutch cable and tighten down the end caps to specified torque provided in the instructions. Once all tightened down adjust the clutch cable to 2-3mm of freeplay at the lever. If you can really measure it, most people I have seen guess are usually at about 6mm and that causes clunky shifting and probably isn't too good for the clutch. Make sure to re-tighten the stop nuts on the bottom of the clutch cable. Start it up and go lock to lock on the handle bars to make sure everything works and you don't get an unexpected squirt of fuel when locked to the left.

Reinstall the radiator shroud and you should be good to go out for a spin.

Happy Motoring.

bob

So, how do you like them? I am a long legged long armed ape. I just need a set that rises but does not add pull back. These appear to offer a lot of pull back.

 

[Joesmoe]

The pullback was important to me because I was leaning forward enough with stock to be a problem.

If the stock bars are o.k. for you, not sure why you would want the risers.

 

[Bob R]

If all you need is height and no pull back it should be a fairly easy proposition to get some stainless drilled and use it as risers. A guy I work with did that with his, I think he brought them up 4 inches or so.

bob

 

[DodahMan]

The pullback was important to me because I was leaning forward enough with stock to be a problem.

If the stock bars are o.k. for you, not sure why you would want the risers.

Because they are just too low to the tank. On my roadstar back in 99, risers were the best and first mod I did. Being a large ape, the bars were hitting my knees. Simply raising them helped a lot.

 

[DodahMan]

If all you need is height and no pull back it should be a fairly easy proposition to get some stainless drilled and use it as risers. A guy I work with did that with his, I think he brought them up 4 inches or so.

bob

I may do that. Hopefully somebody out there makes them but these R3s are rare beasts. I had to go all the way across the country to find mine, scares as hens teeth here on the east coast.

 

[DodahMan]

If all you need is height and no pull back it should be a fairly easy proposition to get some stainless drilled and use it as risers. A guy I work with did that with his, I think he brought them up 4 inches or so.

bob

I live in the Myrtle Beach SC area so there are a lot of bike shops and bike aftermarket shops. I ought to be able to find something. Just got to experiment and once again, I appreciate all of y'alls help!

 

[DodahMan]

I decided to put some risers on my R3T today and when searching there wasn't a lot about how to do it, plenty on how good it is but that is about it.

So here is a condensed version of the steps.

1) The Rivco instructions are pretty good, to a certain point. As always we know that the best intentions may leave out a few things.

First, gather some tools, along with a set of Allen wrenches and socket set/wrenches you will need;

• 14mm Socket or wrench to remove the original risers.
• 17mm socket or wrench to bolt on new risers.
• Home made short 12mm wrench to loosen the nuts on the lower end of the clutch cable. It could actually be smaller and thinner.

Now it is time to start taking things apart.

• Start by removing the left hand side of the radiator shroud. There are 3 allen head bolts that need to come out. The one on the top left and the two on the left side. You can see why here, if you take it off you can access the clutch cable much easier.

Once the Shroud is off you will need to remove the screen, which is held on with one bolt. Once off you have pretty good access to the bottom of the clutch cable.

Now you can use the special wrench or whatever you have to loosen the bottom nut on the clutch cable so you can move it when taking the clutch cable out of the clutch handle.

Go back to the top of the bike and adjust the clutch cable for as much slack as you can get and remove it from the handle. Now that it is sticking up in the air you can remove one bolt from the frame cover and snake the clutch cable down so it can be positioned behind the triple tree.

Once the cable is rerouted you can screw the cover back in place over the clutch cable.

Now that the preliminary stuff is done it is time to swap out the risers.

Make sure you have covered your tank and headlights with your wife's best comforters because she is already pissed you spent nearly 200 dollars for these things, you may as well put the icing on the cake.

Remove the original end cap/s by removing the plastic plugs and then taking the allen bolts out. If you don't have help just take your time and hold onto things so the handle bars don't fall off and into the shiny or painted parts.

Once the end cap is off lay the handle bars onto your wife's comforter that is covering the tank.

The bolts on the original risers need to be removed. You will need a 14mm wrench at this point for the nuts under the triple tree. When removing the original risers keep the large washers on top of the triple tree in place and do not lose the large, thick washer from the underside of the triple tree, you will need them for the install.

Once the original risers are off put the new ones in place and using the supplied 17mm bolt and lock washer along with the retained original washers hand tighten the risers.

Now all you have to do is put the handlebars in the new risers, bolt on the endcaps to hold the bars in place, go back and tighten the bolts for the risers then adjust your handle bars to where you want them, reinstall the clutch cable and tighten down the end caps to specified torque provided in the instructions. Once all tightened down adjust the clutch cable to 2-3mm of freeplay at the lever. If you can really measure it, most people I have seen guess are usually at about 6mm and that causes clunky shifting and probably isn't too good for the clutch. Make sure to re-tighten the stop nuts on the bottom of the clutch cable. Start it up and go lock to lock on the handle bars to make sure everything works and you don't get an unexpected squirt of fuel when locked to the left.

Reinstall the radiator shroud and you should be good to go out for a spin.

Happy Motoring.

bob

Thanks for the writeup. I am not installing rivcos but made a pair of 2 in rise extensions out of billet in the machine shop. I did not have to relocate the cable behind the triple tree but may go back tomorrow and do that. The problem I am having is that I can't adjust the cable. No matter what I do, there seems to be very little spring tension from the clutch pawl on the engine. The clutch is not working at all.

 

[Bob R]

Thanks for the writeup. I am not installing rivcos but made a pair of 2 in rise extensions out of billet in the machine shop. I did not have to relocate the cable behind the triple tree but may go back tomorrow and do that. The problem I am having is that I can't adjust the cable. No matter what I do, there seems to be very little spring tension from the clutch pawl on the engine. The clutch is not working at all.

I would bet you are pulling the cable too tight, which is why locating it works out, it relieve the tension. Others have gone with longer cables, I used the stock +1.5 from Barnett, others have done +2.

bob