Removing R3T Heated Grips

So after my break down of the throttle sleeve tab sans heated grip, I ordered Kury grips.
It looks like the tank is hinged and comes up like a hood. How does that happen?
The rest seems pretty straight forward. The wiring runs inside the grip and through the handlebar hole then connects to power under the tank. Maybe the nacelle comes off, then the 2 bolts that face down come off, then the tank hinges back? Does the seat come off to allow clearance backward?

The dealer could do it but it might be quicker if I do it then get the heated throttle grip replacement parts for the warranty replacement. The bike is 2013 and I'm the second owner so I assume this is under warranty.

Any help appreciated.

cat

You need to get a shop manual. There links around to download one.

Remove the speedo, take out the two bolts holding the front of the tank down, remove the bearclaw, lift and support with the prop rod.

It's pretty easy, but you have to remove some bits and bobs. Step one, remove the chrome instrument cluster on the tank. Three normal hex bolts, the chrome ones. Carefully tip it over to the left (or right, I'm not the boss of you), peel back the rubber around the wires surrounding the connector and push the bit on the connector that loosens it and pull it off. Then lift the instruments off the bike completely. Be a bit careful, the rubber on the edge can come off and then you'll scrape the heck out of the tank if unlucky.

Once you have that out of the way, open two bolts holding the tank down next to the keylock. Edit: forgot the bearclaw, that comes next. One bolt in the front end - untighten, then slide the bearclaw forward and it will come off. Then lift the tank. On the right side of the bike, above the engine, you'll find a stick to support the tank in the upright position. From there, it's a doddle - follow the wire for the heated grip to the relay it is attached to and pull it out of the socket. Then extract all the wires and stuff inside the handlebars (you'll have to take off the grips obviously) if you want it all gone.

I think you do need to remove the seat, but not 100% sure. Either way, that's simple - one bolt behind it (same size as the three holding the instruments down) and two larger ones diagonally behind and under the seat, next to where the shocks mount up top. Remove bolts, lift seat. This is good to know anyway since your battery and fuses are under there.

Personally I might get different heated grips later on myself but may try to just splice into the existing relay and control, ugly tho the box may be on the handlebars.

Thanks much, cr0ft. Those were great instructions.

I got the heated grips unplugged, taken off, and then bagged. I'll take them to the stealer
and see if I can get them replaced or for a trade on something.

I then installed the Kury Iso Grips.
I ended up taping the instrument rubber gasket to the nacelle before I took it off.
There was no rod under the tank that I could find so I propped it up with some 6" 2X4s.
The claw came off with 1 bolt. There are 2 pivot pins that sit in grommets.
To swing the tank clear up, I took off the seat, which I've done numerous times already.

I kind of buggered up the clutch side heated grip.
The clutch grip is screwed into the grip, which I found out after I worked it off.
I read the instructions but apparently not close enough.

In any case. I'm up and going. To keep the grip weights on I might have to make some bushings
but I kind of like the look of the plain Kury ends.

Cat

The rod should be clipped to the frame on the right side (looking from the rear of the bike) of the opening where the wires are when the tank is lifted. But it's not impossible that it's come off the two clips and parted company with the bike, I guess, it doesn't seem to be that securely clipped on.