Rear Wheel Romoval

rusty

Turbocharged
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
735
Location
Northwest, MO.
Ride
2005 Rocket III
I did a search for some info on this but a captain could spend lots of time searching & not turn up the correct answer, so, here we go.

I will be taking the rear wheel off in the next few days to replace the tire before the '07 Sturgis Rocket Rally. I've read the manual over a time or two but cannot find any specific wording that answers my question. If I only use a centerstand to secure the bike, which puts the rear tire about 1 inch off the ground, will I need to partially dismantel the rear fender and swivel it "up" to provide enough clearance to get the wheel/tire out of the swingarm area?

I did need to do this on the old '78 XS1100 Yamaha and upon a "personnal" inspection of the Rocket just a short time ago, I believe I will need to do just that. I have the "more costly" Sears ATV/Bike lift but I have not tried to lift the Rocket yet. I believe I'll need to cobble some bracket which goes across the centerstand pivot eyes to provide a substancial footing for the lift but time will not allow that to happen before the "tire need" gets here.

Anyone???

See ya.
 
rusty

Rusty,Iam thinking you can get it out the side by tilting it one way or another.If you dont use the lift just have your wife lift it highter..Cant remember so better listen to someone else..Jack
 
Here's how I do it Rusty......about 5 times now...

Place a 1/8th thick steel or aluminum bar on the rear crossbar on your lift and place the lift so that the frame tabs are situated on the steel bar, also make sure that the rear oil drain plug clears the rear cross bar on the lift. The front cross bar will but under the engine. When the lift is properly aligned it will be slightly angled relative to the bike.

Pump the lift up to the point where the bike sits upright on its own......re-check the placement of the lift and make sure the frame tabs are firmly on the steel bar on the rear crossbar of your lift. Check the stability of the bike and if good then go ahead and crank the bike up. The front crossbar resting underneat the engine really gives a lot of stability.

No matter how stable the bike is on the lift though, it is still scary to me have it cranked up high enough to get the wheel out without removing the fender. I am always glad and relieved when I get the new wheel on.


.
 
Here's how I did mine, using a motorcycle/atv jack (I have a picture of mine up on the jack in photo album) I did it under the edge of my carport. when I had it all the way up I put straps on the handlebars up to the header up above to stabilize: once jacked all the way up I had plenty of room to remove the tire without messing with the fender. In fact, with my bike all the way up on the motorcycle jack, I used my standard floor jack to support the tire/wheel, by placing the floor jack perpendicular to the bike I could remove the axel bolt with the tire supported then roll the floor jack slightly forward to disengage the wheel from the gear, then slowly lower the floor jack while guiding the wheel out from under the bike......Then reverse procedure when installing the new tire assembly. I used a few plastic cable ties to support the brake assembly while it was unhooked. I hope this can help. Bob
 

That's a good idea to use a floor jack to bring the tire off the shaft and down, and especially to put it back on again.....that dang rear wheel is heavy!
 
I lifted the bike and removed the right side turn signal this allowed easy removall of the tire (and even enough to replace with the goodyear) I have a platform lift with the front wheel clamp so I did a similar set up to Jack's and lifted under the engine after tethering the bike on either side. I dont think the centerstand will quite cut it, short of rear fender removal. My biggist problem was finding something large enough to hold the allen/hex on the side opposite the brake. It held to brake the nut loose but would spin (axle and all) as the nut loosened. It doesn't take much to hold it but it is a bastard tool in my tool box. other than that it a piece of cake. Longer removing the triumph bags than the wheel itself.
 
Rusty:

You already know how I lift mine. My rail isn't high enough but if it was, I could walk under my bike. As it is, I can lift the bike about 3 feet off the floor. Sounds like you have plenty of good tips. What is the senario on the tire changeout? You gonna do it yourself or what?
 
Thanks everyone, after reading the procedures used by those who responded, I think I'll use the bike jack I have, although a buddy of mine stated we could put lag hooks in the ceiling rafters in his shop & lift it with ratchet straps. He stated he is going to put that setup together so he can lift his Yamaha ****** rocket anyway, this will simply compel him to get it going.

I was hoping for a simple way with the centerstand but figured it may require removing a few more fasteners (rear fender) to accomplish.

Thanks for all the input guys. As I stated, I need to get the wheel off by Friday night so I can meet Tomo early Saturday morning in KC to get the tire change done. I feel most comfortable working with another captain who is knowledgable about the Rocket than taking it to a shop that has never seen the Rocket wheel.

I'll let everyone know which approach I take. I have a bracket in mind which will let me use the bike jack (which is why I purchased it anyway) and I may take that route as well.

See ya.
 
While I normally do all my own wrenchin...Tire replacement is best done by the dealer with the proper dismounting/mounting machine AND a high speed balancing machine. I take my tires (Bought online from RonAyres.com) to my dealer. He charges $30 to mount and balance the front and $35 for the rear. Worth every penny. I drink a cold drink while watching the dealers mechanic do the work.
 
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