RamAir Problem ?

[1K9]

I'm going to buy one just to have at the house. I took the old battery to the auto parts store and they said it was good. Some machine did the reading and lit up green. It looked like the original and it was 9 years old so I went ahead and bought a new one just thinking that was the path of least resistance. I got the YUASA high performance replacement from Amazon.

Make sure you have good connections. Make sure that the connection to the starter under the bike is not loose. It take just a little weakness to have a fail to start issue. Even in a battery with solid 12 volts at rest can fail to start the Rocket. I would bet that the Yuasa starts the bike right up.

 

[quadzilla200]

Make sure you have good connections. Make sure that the connection to the starter under the bike is not loose. It take just a little weakness to have a fail to start issue. Even in a battery with solid 12 volts at rest can fail to start the Rocket. I would bet that the Yuasa starts the bike right up.

I think you are onto something. Went back tonight with new voltmeter. Old batter actually was higher than the new one. 12.6 vs. 12.8 at rest. Looks like I have two good batteries. I tried them both, but also started really wiggling the contacts around and tightening. Once I did that I got it to try and turn over more than the one puff in the audio above, but I still couldn't get it to ignite. I took the panel off, because I'd heard about the ECU issues, all those wires on the side seemed snug. I haven't looked "under" the bike.

Make sure you have good connections. Make sure that the connection to the starter under the bike is not loose. It take just a little weakness to have a fail to start issue. Even in a battery with solid 12 volts at rest can fail to start the Rocket. I would bet that the Yuasa starts the bike right up.

I'm thinking you might be onto something. Bought a voltmeter. Actually, the old battery must have been new. I had been charging it and it tested 12.8 and the new one 12.64.
So, I tried to tighten down the battery connections and plug and replug in connections I'd taken out during the RamAir install.
I went back and tried to restart and got past the single turnover to where it was really trying but just wouldn't ignite no matter how long I left my finger on the ignition.
I took off that panel on the side I didn't see anything lose coming down from the battery. I'm not sure what I'm looking for though. A video would be a great help.
I have three things that are unplugged in the bike. There are two connections above the valve cover that don't have a receiving end and they don't go with each other. There is a large plug in the battery compartment that I can't figure out what it plugs into. I don't remember unplugging it either. I think it was just there swinging freely. This process took so much longer than I expected that my memory is starting to fade, but I thought I followed the instructions closely.
I feel like I knocked something loose, but I don't know what.

 

[Stillserving]

the "large plug in the battery compartment" is the OBD 2 style connector that is used to access the ECU for code reading/tuning, etc. It doesn't mate with anything on the bike, it just hangs out next to the battery on a little metal shelf.

Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?

 

[TURBO200R4]

the "large plug in the battery compartment" is the OBD 2 style connector that is used to access the ECU for code reading/tuning, etc. It doesn't mate with anything on the bike, it just hangs out next to the battery on a little metal shelf.

Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?

Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
just thought i would help u out Stillserving
the rocket will not start below 10 volts.
even new batteries need charged on the rocket.

 

[quadzilla200]

Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
Did you read the battery voltage on either battery with the voltmeter WHILE the engine was trying to start/crank to see what it drops down to?
just thought i would help u out Stillserving
the rocket will not start below 10 volts.
even new batteries need charged on the rocket.

Both batteries read 12.8-12.85 at rest, 12.35-12.45 with the lights on and when it tries to start drops below 10. I was having zero battery issues when I started the process with the valve cover gasket and it turned right on when I ran the 24 minutes cycle 2 weeks ago on the RamAir. I'm also getting a Check Engine Light now.
Got it started once today, but had to give it throttle. It does not want to idle.

 

[quadzilla200]

What they said....And also, don't freak if it pops a check engine light when you finally get it started. It'll sometimes do that after a failed start w/ low battery (ECU gets confused). You can either clear it w/ a reader/Tune ECU or it should clear by itself after 3 ignition cycles.

That did happen today.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I think what happened was that it just managed to start with low voltage so it didnot have enough volts to.make it charge therefor not enough voltage for injectors,coils ect.
So it will set codes for several things.
U need to charge bat or jump start with car (do not start car). Then it should run ok.

This is a prime exsample of why we need voltage when cranking

 

[1K9]

I think what happened was that it just managed to start with low voltage so it didnot have enough volts to.make it charge therefor not enough voltage for injectors,coils ect.
So it will set codes for several things.
U need to charge bat or jump start with car (do not start car). Then it should run ok.

This is a prime exsample of why we need voltage when cranking

Perhaps Turbo is referring to cranking amps. If the stepper motor set up is not keeping the bike alive when it starts, try disconnecting the stepper motor. Then try to start the bike. Keep it running old school (with throttle ) to see if it settles. Probably the main idle setting is low. One you see the bike runs, re-connect the stepper motor and try to start the bike. Hopefully the bike finds how to idle if not, you have to adjust the hard idle screw. It's tricky to get to and the break the factory yellow pain, There are two nuts, one locking the other. Advance the screw one or two turns and lock it (not too hard) You might have to play with it. It is best adjusted with the bike hot and running. If this don't fix it???Huuum. Perhaps the MAP sensor is bad. It is the sensor that has the vacuum hoses nipples. Make sure that it's electrical connector has a little contact grease. If that don't do it... you are close. Erase the error codes and try to start again.

The hard idle screw is not the one inside the highlighted box. It sits @ 12 o'clock on the throttle shaft where the throttle cables attach. Right behind the TPS. In that pic it looks like it can be adjusted without removing the TPS. That TPS in the front should not be moved. Resetting it will require and Android base Tune ECU and a cable to set by voltage correctly. This mod will give the motor more air and fuel at minimum idle. My bike is set up with the action arm that is pushed by the TPS taken off. The TPS has no effect. The TPS system is slow to react and makes the idle fuzzy. That whole system is one of the rocket's source of idle issues.

I also recommend you get a LoneTech cable an Android phone and buy Tune ECU in your Apple Store so you can examine and adjust your primary TPS. I know this is a pain but once the bike runs you will forgive her and forget. I went to therapy with mine and almost off a cliff several times to try and fix a bad idle. A fellow Captn made some mods and adjustments while in Leakey and I have had a happy controllable bike since. Good luck. There is no better feeling than being able to troubleshoot your own bike.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Let me rephase
Do not mess with anything until u have a fully charged battery
And yes the stepper motor may not be working with 10 volts or less.
The fuel pump may nott be working with 10 volts or less.
Ect
Ect
Ect.

 

[Kevin frazier]

I think what happened was that it just managed to start with low voltage so it didnot have enough volts to.make it charge therefor not enough voltage for injectors,coils ect.
So it will set codes for several things.
U need to charge bat or jump start with car (do not start car). Then it should run ok.

This is a prime exsample of why we need voltage when cranking

Dag gone skippy it’s important, heres my last crank test, fired right up