Gonna reread this Ramair thread and see how it got to Ricks famous caliper clean and rebuild. ( which is wonderful i might say and causes me every year to disassemble and clean at least.
 
I'm going to buy one just to have at the house. I took the old battery to the auto parts store and they said it was good. Some machine did the reading and lit up green. It looked like the original and it was 9 years old so I went ahead and bought a new one just thinking that was the path of least resistance. I got the YUASA high performance replacement from Amazon.
Ive gotten the Yuasa from amazon before, it was bad. :banghead: However amazon gave me full return and i recycled battery 5 more bucks
 
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Reread thread, it was said before but not responded to, since ramair install was the clue and map sensor hoses that were asked about we never heard if they were for sure verified on and good, and an agm diehard 100 bucks will start the bike, like i said ive bought bad yuasa from amazon.
 
Reread thread, it was said before but not responded to, since ramair install was the clue and map sensor hoses that were asked about we never heard if they were for sure verified on and good, and an agm diehard 100 bucks will start the bike, like i said ive bought bad yuasa from amazon.
I used the TuneECU and it is still spitting out P1105- Mapsensor Pipe fail . All other ones are gone. If I try to delete it while the bike is running it idles down and shuts off. The battery sucks. I'm calling Amazon. It drops to 11 or lower everytime I crank it. How the heck does it have such good reviews on Amazon?
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I've tried to do a little research on this code, but a lot of it is Greek to me, so I took some pictures. I can't figure out why this one tube is loose. The video I used for the RamAir looks like he has a 3 or a T . I have this 4th one, but am not sure if that is the source, but I'm not sure where to plug it in. Also in the picture from the other side I noticed I have three things unplugged. I'm not sure if they were plugged in at one time, but thought I should mention it. I'm learning a lot of this forum. Thank you for all the help.
 

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Hard to see picture, ill look better when i stop. Sounds like a map line is loose, on the top of each throttle body where it connects to head you will see a cap on one side and a hose coming off other side, check those hoses and all three go to a T fitting and goes to map sensor. Keep at and find those lines, theyre in your pictures so youre close, they could be cracked from hitting while installing ramair or off period, but you gotta verify they are good. ill try to get some good pictures for ya
 
Kevin's right. That is the MAP sensor hose group and it appears they are disconnected. 3 hoses are equal length and run from a 4 way vacuum plug to each throttle body. The 4th hose runs to the MAP sensor. Disconnected like that will give you a big vacuum leak causing the bike to run lean and idle extremely poor. It will also give an improper signal to the ECM for fueling. Looks like this is all a result of the RamAir install..... Hope you didn't change any tune settings. Plug everything in and it should run like new...

The open hose should plug into that circled MAP sensor. I think the vacuum nipple points down as illustrated in the parts drawing.

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Ditto, do what Gregger says and you should be good. get an agm duracell for 100 bucks full 2 year replacement from sams ( no prorate full 2 years) i use antigravity but if youre in real cold area agm works good.
 
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This whole thing was just a test to see how smart the board was. Good grief, I can't believe it was that simple. That hose wasn't upended like that until recently when I was trying to tighten the front valve cover bolts, but it appears it was off the whole time. Started right up when I plugged it in. No problems. Glad you guys recommended that Lonelec cable or I wouldn't have seen that code. Seasons Greetings and as Cousin Eddie would say, This forum is like The Jelly of the Month Club

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