R3T Ignition switch

[barneytheweasel]

It has snap off security bolts one each side, they are usually loose and if you are good you can find a small socket to undo them with some upward pressure. My advice to you is to just remove the bottom part of the switch and resolder it, that part is only held on with plastic clips just be careful not to break the plastic. You will need the headlight relays before you do otherwise it will blow again.

Thanks Goth, I saw the small hex looking ends that hold the switch in place. I have soldered it back together but the switch itself seems to be dodgy as when you wiggle the key it stops and starts. Bugger!

Figure I might be due a new switch as it's been soldered before by Northside down here in Sydney who did a ****e job for $450!! They reckoned it doesn't show up as a fault on the computer so had to search. I'd already told them that it was probably the switch. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

 

[Kmutt]

to update my previous post....
mine did go out last summer

How many miles J? Curious as to whether the mileage has anything to do with it.
Im not positive but I dont think this suffers from the same problem as the S/C bikes do.
Could be dust or dirt causing excess heat in the switch.
Do you ride with the windsheild on or off?

mutt

 

[rainman]

update on mine over 31000 mlies and no problem

 

[JDuke1980]

it was around 15,000 miles I think...

Ride w/ windshield on...

 

[Kmutt]

it was around 15,000 miles I think...

Ride w/ windshield on...

Thanks for the update....I only have 6000 on mine so Im trying to anticipate issues.
I plan on and have been riding more this year....put 10K onthis year is a real possibility

mutt

 

[HellFire]

It's the dual headlights on the other models that typically push the switch over the edge. But their weak solder points can certainly find other ways to fail other than just heat.