Oil change frequency???

[Molinoman]

OIl

I just happened to be in a local lawn mower distributorship and noticed that they had the Amsoil Motorcycle oil in 1 qt. containers at $7.00 each, I bought 7 of them. They were of the 10W-40 type which should be fine for use down here in Florida.

As far as those of you who insist on changing "synthetic" oil every 3,000 or 5,000 miles you are wasting your money. Go to the dino oil and it won't be so painful when buying the oil and the 3 or 5k increments will be more suitable or at least justifiable.

It's nice to be home from that looooong 4,300 mile trip in the car, now it's riding time!!!
Dennis

 

[Baggage1]

Lets see here, I'm on my third rear tire, got 19K+, must be time for an oil change. I'm with Jamie and Molinoman on this. Had a corviar I put in new oil so frequently it never got a chance to get hot. My transmission has smoothed out so, I don't notice it anymore but those pesky lawmen sure do.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

I use Amsoil in my standby genset. Matter of fact, that's what the OEM recommends. I was curious as to why they specified Amsoil and their engineering department told me it's because the genset assumes a load in 15 seconds and the engine is in extreme thermal shock and their tests have proved to them that Amsoil's cold flow properties provide superior lubrication at startup.

 

[HeR3tic]

Scotts filter flush-out shows particles. Not anything an OEM filter wouldn't have also caught as well, as best observed without a magnifier. I don't have the means to analyse the smallest particles that the sellers claim ("35 micron"). Amsoil will do an anal. for a mear $25. Perhaps Scotts will do it free

My fuel mileage has increased a full 2mpg since changing to Amsoil.

There is an upper end noise development that I've not heard before and haven't put my finger on yet. The noise may have been hidden previously behind the paint can rattle that disappeared, during the first 200 miles (as previously stated), with the change to Amsoil. This may be the cam chain or perhaps as a result of the 3-4 tanks of 87 octane. I'm inclined to think the former rather than the latter. It's not an octance ping, I don't believe. It's a bit difficult to get a stethoscope down on the right side while riding and a full helmet doesn't help. I don't hear it at a stand still with throttle advance. I hear a bit more 3rd gear decel popping (lower RPMs). It's not constant, not audible at torqued speeds (>2400 RPM). I've gone back to 89 octane.

 

[Paul Hyland]

It

It just might be your valves Her3tic

 

[Sidecar Flip]

Come on baby

My take on oil change frequency is: 2 tires to one oil change.....

R:

I've said this before, but one more time. You spent at least 15K for your bike and it costs a whopp'in 25 measly bucks for a spectroscopic analysis so that's a no brainier especially of you are at all concerned with the metal particles in your Scott's. However, you can truck (no pun intended) down to your local heavy truck dealer, you know, the ones that sell Freightliner or Peterbilt or Western Star or even Volvo (uch) and get a mail in analysis kit with a nifty sample bottle and a pre-paid (in the price of the kit) mailer and return to you postage for the analysis. Here's where you are S.O.L., though. You must procure a sample from the drain oil at the drain point while you are in the process of draining the oil. Seeing as how you have already shot your wad so-to-speak, you are basically out of luck with this go-around. The reason being that the lab wants a sample from the stream coming from the drain plug is that the oil in your drain pan will most likely be contaminated with other things unless of course you have an antiseptically clean drain pan which I don't and I presume you don't either. So, next time you change the oil (after 2 tires), do the analysis if you have any doubts in your mind about whether your engine is slowly milling itself away internally, to the point of extinction.

 

[Paul Hyland]

OR

There is a lab here by my work we use all the time. Here is by Hobby air port. South Houston TX for you Yanks.

 

[britman]

Amsoil Report/Rattle

After reading the Amsoil reports online and HeR3tic's post I did my last oil change with Amsoil when I finally received the order. ( The first shipment was damaged thanks to the UPS warehouse monkeys, but they made it good and reshipped the same day of notification of damage.) I find the bike seems to shift better and top end noise is reduced somewhat. I have had the infamous "paint can rattle" around 2 thousand RPM since new and that is still there. I have read several reports of a bad bottom cam chain sprocket and worn key ways being to blame, but the bike runs like a top other than the rattle. I have checked via the cam chain inspection cover several times and the oil seems clean, no filings visible, and the chain seems tight. I have read posts of guys hearing this noise for twenty thousand miles or more and the bikes are still going strong. I am going to ride it like I stole it all the way to Smashville and back. When I get home she will be pushing 10K so it is off to the Dealer for the mileage check up which includes a valve adjustment and I will have them check the PC nosie issue then. I really do think the Amsoil MC oil is great product and will stick with it.

 

[HeR3tic]

I believe I may have found the noise. The stainless screen protecting the radiator, in front, is loose/floppy at the bottom. Tapping on it make what I believe is the noise I've been hearing at low rpm/speed. I've not done any adjustments yet. Will have time this weekend. Now that I think about it...I only recently diddled with the chrome radiator surround, to get the "fit and finish". This noise was not apparent prior to the oil change and the subsequent "fit and finish" adjustment efforts. I should have left it looking sloppy

 

[Pig9r]

Are you keeping track of each penny you are now saving with the Scott filter? I am curious when you will reach the break even point.