if you are going to start checking
if it was me i would take a multi meter and set to dc volts and go right to the battery bolts then to the all the battery terminals (late models have a habit of the bolts being loose)
if nothing found then move on with a 12 volt test light clamp on neg side then touch all the fuses on both sides to see what happens only on one side fuse is blown.
also if you want to check the obd connector on the bike i believe that i can find my picture of the obd telling what the terminals are so you can check to see if you have a good positive and a good negative coming from your obd connector on your bike. failure to have a good pos or neg will result in scanner failure.
hth
 
OK, the first thing I would check is the ground from the battery terminal to frame was clean and tight. Next install your OBD reader and connect to the ECU. Does the ECU stay in communication with your OBD reader? Are you using TuneECU or some other software to read your ECU?
 
OK, the first thing I would check is the ground from the battery terminal to frame was clean and tight. Next install your OBD reader and connect to the ECU. Does the ECU stay in communication with your OBD reader? Are you using TuneECU or some other software to read your ECU?
I'll be doing that tomorrow. As of right now if there are no errors on the TFT display it connects to the ECU just fine. Once the errors on the TFT display start popping up it loses connection to the ecu. Some times it take it a minute before the trans fault, tcs disabled and check engine warnings come up on the display. for quick stuff I use the OBDlink app they have. It loads up way quicker then the TuneECU which I also use.
 
Back
Top