The pic I posted is not mine, I will be keen to find something similar should I go with the option of 3 x pods


Me too, anyone know who made that bearclaw mod or if there is someone selling something similar?
 
One thing I'd like to point out. It's less to do with performance than daily ergonomics and practicality.

anything that sticks out much more than the claw will almost certainly rub your pants, unless you ride with your knees splayed like "the popular girls".

Any oil on the filters WILL mess your pants inside knee. And depending on the pants - they could wear the filter material. I have my custom ITG cover with S/Steel mesh because my leathers were wearing the foam - but even so pants get oily on inside left knee.

If you ride to work - may not be something you want to do.
 
will this custom air duct cowling help out the air intake on a stock set up?
air duct system.JPG
air duct system2.jpg
 
so i'm not overly mechanically inclined, nor do i know how to change all the fancy computer settings (although there is a really good bike mech in town, but i don't know how much he knows about R3s, i could find out if he has the right equipment to change the computer settings).

is there something i can do to help the bike breath, maybe a different airfilter, K&N maybe? or is it that you have to jump in waist deep (with a ramair or ozclaw or something similar) in order to get/see any performance increase?

thanks for your thoughts & help!

Todd
 
To get any real improvement you need to de-restrict the air intake AND the exhaust system. The catalytic converters are in the muffler cans on the Roadster but the collector in front of the mufflers is still a lumpy reduce flow design carried over from the earlier versions that had the catalytic converter inside the collector. This is why people change the collector for a free flowing one from RIVCO, or other aftermarket makers such as Viking Exhausts in NZ owned and run by @Paul Bryant a member here. I believe his is the best collector made with the attention to splitting the flow to each side and quality manufacturing. Other collector options can be found on eBay from US$275.

Free flowing mufflers without catalytic converter can be found from Triumph that look same as stock but free flowing these are called TORS (and marked as Triumph Off Road Systems) and are not usually legal for registration inspection purposes in many locations but many people use them as unless you need to get inspected they will pass cursory inspection roadside by police etc.

Another source for cheap slip on design is a member in the US @Dain, or Supertrapp USA. More expensive are Carpenter USA, or Viking, NZ, CES Australia or Reband Australia, OutLaw - Dave Pratt UK and the list goes on. Headers and complete systems are available from Viking, Carpenter, CES and Reband. Dave Pratt UK makes collectors and mufflers.

Intake upgrades can be as simple as a K&N filter under the seat which will not improve flow much but can be cleaned and re-used. Most of us remove the under seat intake plumbing system and use filters directly attached to the throttle bodies under or with a modified Bearclaw cover. These can be RamAir, various K&N or Unifilter pods etc.

Modding the intake, header, collector and muffler cans and upgrading the tune with a customised TuneECU etc or a dynotune typically improves rear wheel HP (rwhp) by approx. 25-40% i.e. 120 stock to 150-168 rwhp depending on what is fitted and how it is custom tuned for the bike after fitting.

A member here @HansO kindly donates his time and experience to provide suitable modified TuneECU tunes which can be downloaded to your bikes ECU with any laptop or tablet with a $20 cable and plug. There are 100's of threads in the forums here to read, research and decide which way you want to go and how to do it. Have fun!
 
I was one of the First to run the RX 4040-1's even on a std motor with CES headers they worked Great
IMG_0565.JPG
 
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