My Experience Using A Seal Mate

[Nat67]

I should have been clearer. I intend to remove the fork from the bike. If I can remove the damper from the fork by simply removing the bolt, and then drain all the oil and replace with the measured amount of oil upon reassembly, I could avoid having to disassemble the fork with tools I don't currently have.

I would be fascinated to see this done !

 

[ThisGuy]

I would be fascinated to see this done !

Did I read correctly between the lines? Fascinated to see this done… not eager to be the one to do it.

 

[Ted Biggie]

I just read thru the other thread, thanks for linking it. Appreciate everyone's advice, I'm just going to buy the generic tools and do it by the book, may even swap the springs for progressives while I'm at it.

 

[Nat67]

There is no particular spring tension in the fork and if removing the fork , it is simpler to remove the top cap

Did I read correctly between the lines? Fascinated to see this done… not eager to be the one to do it.

Exactly !

 

[Nat67]

That's what I was getting at with not being able to measure… technically you could add oil, unmeasured, which would be a horrible idea. I was guessing that strictly speaking, you could add oil. Just don't.



I don't understand the appeal of trying to service the forks on the bike. Enough people do/try that I guess there's a reason. I just don't know what it is.

Most guys who do their forks as I, do it because the stock springs / oil weight combination is woefully soft causing the front of the bike to pitch badly in slow moving traffic or slow speed manoeuvres if the front brake is brushed on . Progressive springs and heavier oil help alleviate this problem . Also helps high speed handling !
Some go beyond this and change the damper units also giving a multitude of adjustments .

 

[1olbull]

Just FYI -
I needed a special tool (which I purchased) to remove the fork tubes, drain them and then insert new Progressive springs and fork oil.
I do not remember the oil cc necessary, but it should be in the service manual.

 

[TURBO200R4]

reading the threads above i think this
while i did it with out problems with the impact cannot remember 3/8 or 1/2. doesn't mean that it could be done every time. also mine had low miles at the time now with 35000 mile mine could use some new springs. so mileage is a big factor in what u should do.
like this guy said u might get that bolt half way out and be stuck and need the tools any way. i just took the chance that it could be done a different way it and it worked great for my situation.
when i done mine the only info i had was the manual.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

I did mine a few winters ago. Fork seals had started to leak. Replaced the seals, oil and springs. First recommendation: BUY the Triumph special tool. About $40. Remove the forks. Use 7 weight oil. Get a new progressive type fork spring kit. Be sure to pump out all the old oil. Use the measured amount of oil technic not the measured depth technic. The final result is remarkable.

Triumph learn something from these posts and build it this way from the factory. If it cost $10 more for the better springs, we'll gladly pay it.