Lower fork bushing!

Jag

Living Legend
Joined
Oct 7, 2013
Messages
3,925
Location
Cape May Co. NJ
Ride
2013 R3T
So got back from a ride and look at this! Any idea what causes this and any easy way to fix without totally rebuilding the forks? Thanks guys!
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Are the seals leaking? Where does that white ring fit? I just replaced my seals, springs and oil and don't recognize the part.

Seals not leaking, it a touring model, in the exploded diagram they call it a lower bushing. It’s plastic!
 
Mm it's the piece that locates the stanchion inside the tube, not sure how it ended up there? Probably drug up on a bump then fell down.

I suggest just getting new fork fluids done and this piece reinstalled/replaced.
 
Mm it's the piece that locates the stanchion inside the tube, not sure how it ended up there? Probably drug up on a bump then fell down.

I suggest just getting new fork fluids done and this piece reinstalled/replaced.


Guess I need to buy some fork specific tools, upgraded springs and give it a go! Any pointers? The manual is kinda vague!
 
Mm it's the piece that locates the stanchion inside the tube, not sure how it ended up there?

It is broken, it should not have the split in it.

That is called the abrasion ring. It is number 18 on this diagram. It seals nothing. I *believe* it helps keep the outer sleeve from contacting the fork tube but don't hold me to that. I ran for over a year without one on the left fork, when I got around to replacing it I also did Race Tech springs and heavier oil. YMMV but that could probably wait until the riding season is over.

BTW, if your seals are good you probably won't even need to replace them when you do get around to fixing it.

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bob

ETA: This site Front Forks & Yokes Triumph ROCKET III TOURING has a better picture. IIRC its about a 5 dollar part.
 
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There are a number of how to videos on rebuilding standard forks like the T model has. It's actually not at all hard.

The most, and really only, challenging part is driving the seal in. You can pay like 40-100 for a seal driver....or.... Buy a piece of PCV pipe that's a similar diameter and split it lengthwise, then use it to drive the seal in.

Did this on my Daytona last year, doesn't leak anything, just watch a few videos until your comfortable with the procedure. It is a bit messy, what with the fork oil etc.

On USD forks it's much riskier to DIY. There's a bolt on USD forks, found on non-T models, that if it doesn't come loose properly, you need a very expensive special tool to fix.
 
For the price my local suspension place charges - I'd simply have the whole lot refurbished - And maybe drop in some Cartridge Emulators.
 
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