DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
If running the bike with huge load current anyway, the Series R/R is not going to do much to save the stator to be honest as current is going to be very high either way
This unit has a hall effect loop sensor which detects the current in the wire that pas through the loop. The current does not pass through the device it seems ... Will give it a shot ..
Bigjaype
I'll eat Sonny's sandwich...
I'd have a closer look at the specifications for these LED lights. I bought some 20Watt LED lights for my ride on lawnmower and they only draw 0.9A at 13.5 volts.Currently I have LED headlights which draw 90W (45Wx2) and Rigid LED spot lights that draw 94W (47x2). I am thinking of adding a LED light bar. What's the max wattage I can add?. Will a 310W light kill the battery ?. I will be using dedicated switch, relay and fuse for the light bar. All the other bulbs (tail, brake, turn) are all LEDs.
Many thanks,
AJ
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Yes, that's what I was saying:
Two things to deduce from that too (for the original post)
1) if that is an incandescent equivalency rating, then the current is not as high as you think
2) also, if an incandescent equivalency, it would suggest they would not even be as bright as std lamps
Do you have some links to those lamps & aux lamps?
Yes, a Hall clamp would indeed be correct tool for that application - didn't consider you might have access to one and I didnt see that link you posted originally? (AC current clamps are of course much more commonplace). It would great data if you can get that - standing current without lights would be nice to see.
Bigjaype
I'll eat Sonny's sandwich...
I buy most of my LED lights from this site. If you click on any of the lights, they give all the details.
STEDI LED Light Bars | Australia
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
^ I meant specs of the OP's lights ...
Ok - looking at rigid page, the watts and current do not jive - e.g. 45W lights draw 3.2A
So the wattage is as expected some kind of equivalency as opposed to actual power consumption
Ok - looking at rigid page, the watts and current do not jive - e.g. 45W lights draw 3.2A
So the wattage is as expected some kind of equivalency as opposed to actual power consumption
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barbagris
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Well I did, but RIGID lights are well spec'd as are JWS. I've checked the JWS. When they say 4 Amps - it is. The headlights could be. I doubt it, but without data who am I to doubt. The rpm dependant thing is why I was a very early 100% LED adopter.
Ken, I've not measured the coils on an R3 - but the old RoT was about 40W/Cylinder (safety margin included). But it is rpm dependant. As one discharges the other two are drawing to recharge on an R3 - I'd not even thought of the pump, which must also draw a fair chug of electrons.
barbagris
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At what VOLTAGE? - If like many auto mfrs they use 14V and not 12 - its 44.8W.
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
That may be the number they are using to get 45 but there is no way it is 14V at the lamp connector
barbagris
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13.8V is very possible with relays and a Li Battery.
JWS spec at 12VDC. But their early units were 12/24V and really needed 12.5-12.8V min. THE new M/C lights are fine at 11V.
Not defending anybody here - In fact I am not a fan of RIGID. But I do understand how marketing and RoT rounding up and down works.
