Leaving cam cover off overnight?

[JaR3d85]

just my 2 cents
i would try to measure those clearances because if you know that most of them are at the high side of the clearance then you are probably good for 30,000 miles on the other hand if some are close to the minimum clearance then you would be good to correct them .
just for the record i have about 70,000 on mi

just my 2 cents
i would try to measure those clearances because if you know that most of them are at the high side of the clearance then you are probably good for 30,000 miles on the other hand if some are close to the minimum clearance then you would be good to correct them .
just for the record i have about 70,000 on mine

You have a very good point there, I appreciate your 2 cents, looks like I'm checking valve clearance

 

[JaR3d85]

You don't need a lift to turn the rear wheel to turn the crank. The 2.5 inch round cover on the front engine cove is the port to turn the crank. Doing it this way gives you a lot more feel and accuracy. You can also see the timing marks. It also make the job a lot easier if you remove 1 sparkplug per cylinder.

Oh wow, I had no idea that's fantastic. Thanks, I'm assuming pulling the plugs to take compression out of the equation? I don't have a manual yet there pretty expensive, well the paper copys are at least, so I'm not sure what way to turn that? Clockwise? And from the looks I remove that cap and it gives access to the nut so I can turn it? And should I be expecting oil to come flowing out when I open that cap? That is the one your speaking of right?

 

[mo8414]

So today I'm gonna grab some 600 grit wet dry sand paper and I'm gonna carefully sand that powder coating off, I'm going to glue that 600 down to the granite surface plate here at work with some spray adhesive and work that crap off, I may even jump to 1000 grit to finish it off.

You can use double sided tape as well and some emery cloth if the sand paper is not strong enough. I have used double sided tape many times when machining a surface flat. Also you can place the cover on the granite and use a feeler around it to see if it has gaps and by how much if it does. Scotch bright may remove the coating on the mounting surface.

 

[JaR3d85]

You can use double sided tape as well and some emery cloth if the sand paper is not strong enough. I have used double sided tape many times when machining a surface flat. Also you can place the cover on the granite and use a feeler around it to see if it has gaps and by how much if it does. Scotch bright may remove the coating on the mounting surfacebefore I even started I set it on the

You can use double sided tape as well and some emery cloth if the sand paper is not strong enough. I have used double sided tape many times when machining a surface flat. Also you can place the cover on the granite and use a feeler around it to see if it has gaps and by how much if it does. Scotch bright may remove the coating on the mounting surface.

Before I started sanding I put it on the surface plate and that thing had a pretty bad teeter... I press on the left cam side the edge that would be closest to the coolant reservoir and it would lift quite a bit ... I should have stuck a feeler under it to see how much but I wasn't thinking about it not that it would have mattered anyways, but after sanding and getting it to sit flat again the only spot found with a gap was on the same side the teeter was on but it was between the center bolt and the 2 ends... .007 thousandth of an inch, and I managed to get pretty much all the paint of and what was left was so smooth I don't think it will mess with the gaskets ability to seal right, at least I hope not ...
.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

I do but I don't know if I'd trust running it in my shed all night... I just went ahead and pulled it and I put a towel over it with 2 pieces of cardboard, I was thinking I should inspect the clearance but I don't have a lift for this thing yet and I don't imagine cranking this thing by hand without using the read tire it very easy? The other positive to it is it only have 14k miles on it so from what I've read it's pretty slim chance of them being out I also read they usually end up getting tighter? Anyways after pulling the cover and cleaning it with dawn dish soap, there is so much black powdercoat on the mating surface ...the gasket left and embedded line in the paint around the cover... I'm going to get some sleep strip and plastic blades and work that thing until it's bare aluminum... Kinda pisses me off triumph was so careless with that. Il post some pics when I get to work and get it under some light.

Try this link for a free Service Manual. This PDF has 425 pages. You need a lot of paper and printer ink.

https://www.piano-person.com/r3docs/rocket_iii_service_manual.pdf

 

[mo8414]

Before I started sanding I put it on the surface plate and that thing had a pretty bad teeter... I press on the left cam side the edge that would be closest to the coolant reservoir and it would lift quite a bit ... I should have stuck a feeler under it to see how much but I wasn't thinking about it not that it would have mattered anyways, but after sanding and getting it to sit flat again the only spot found with a gap was on the same side the teeter was on but it was between the center bolt and the 2 ends... .007 thousandth of an inch, and I managed to get pretty much all the paint of and what was left was so smooth I don't think it will mess with the gaskets ability to seal right, at least I hope not ...
.

Id say 7 grand isn't enough for the gasket not to seal so it should be all good. Sounds like you did a good job if it was that bad to start with.

 

[JaR3d85]

Id say 7 grand isn't enough for the gasket not to seal so it should be all good. Sounds like you did a good job if it was that bad to start wii appreciate

Id say 7 grand isn't enough for the gasket not to seal so it should be all good. Sounds like you did a good job if it was that bad to start with.

I appreciate that, on that side I know most say not too but I did put an extremely thin layer of visbella rtv just a strip about 1.5 inch long on the flat side of the gasket that mates to the cam cover... At the spot where there was a .007 gap, I let it skin up first so it will actually work like it should, it was such a thing about there was no squeeze out, I just wanted to close that .007 gap a bit more. I was using chat gpt as a resource for helping me and it was surprisingly helpful, the real test will be when I start it up in a couple days, I put a thin layer on the D and or U shapes on the cam ends about as thick as a piece of paper, I was pretty dang careful with making sure all mating surface was cleaned with brake cleaner non chlorinated, I am probably over thinking a lot of this but I'd rather over think than miss something simple. I appreciate all you input this forum is great you all are very helpful.

 

[JaR3d85]

Try this link for a free Service Manual. This PDF has 425 pages. You need a lot of paper and printer ink.

https://www.piano-person.com/r3docs/rocket_iii_service_manual.pdf

That's amazing thank you so much! I downloaded it, I'll use the printer at work .

 

[TURBO200R4]

this info is a little late to help you but may help someone in the future.
i do a lot of transmission pan gaskets
so when you have a rubber type gasket it helps to have a sanded type surface to hold that gasket in place like when we get a chrome pan we always do a sand job on it so the gasket don't get squeezed out

 

[Gerald]

Oh wow, I had no idea that's fantastic. Thanks, I'm assuming pulling the plugs to take compression out of the equation? I don't have a manual yet there pretty expensive, well the paper copys are at least, so I'm not sure what way to turn that? Clockwise? And from the looks I remove that cap and it gives access to the nut so I can turn it? And should I be expecting oil to come flowing out when I open that cap? That is the one your speaking of right?

Remove all the plugs, this will allow to turn engine easier. If checking compression, remove only one plug per cylinder. Ground spark plug wire of plug that you removed from the cylinder.