Leaving cam cover off overnight?

JaR3d85

.020 Over
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Feb 12, 2026
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2014 triumph Rocket 3 Roadster, 2008 Yamaha FZ1
So I am currently working on replacing my cam cover gasket, my situation is my bike is in my shed, it builds up moisture on the block and on cam cover I want to take the cover off tonight and bring it into work and put it on the granite slab to check for flatness, the guy I purchased it from is... Well lets say he's not honest and he doesn't understand how gaskets and torquing things works, so I need to make sure I don't replace the gasket just to have to swap cam covers when and if it starts leaking again... So my question is would I be fine leaving the cover off for tonight and draping a towel and a piece of cardboard over the exposed top end? Do I need to worry about condensation accumulating on the top end if I have it covered with said towel and cardboard over night? The shed doesn't leak I just live in Oregon and it's cold and humid. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated,
 
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I think a couple of towels may work. Do you have a small electric heater you could put next to the bike ? BTW: While you have the cam cover off, will you be inspecting the cam/valve clearances ? You may want to.
I do but I don't know if I'd trust running it in my shed all night... 🫤 I just went ahead and pulled it and I put a towel over it with 2 pieces of cardboard, I was thinking I should inspect the clearance but I don't have a lift for this thing yet and I don't imagine cranking this thing by hand without using the read tire it very easy? The other positive to it is it only have 14k miles on it so from what I've read it's pretty slim chance of them being out I also read they usually end up getting tighter? Anyways after pulling the cover and cleaning it with dawn dish soap, there is so much black powdercoat on the mating surface ...the gasket left and embedded line in the paint around the cover... I'm going to get some sleep strip and plastic blades and work that thing until it's bare aluminum... Kinda pisses me off triumph was so careless with that. Il post some pics when I get to work and get it under some light.
 
So today I'm gonna grab some 600 grit wet dry sand paper and I'm gonna carefully sand that powder coating off, I'm going to glue that 600 down to the granite surface plate here at work with some spray adhesive and work that crap off, I may even jump to 1000 grit to finish it off.
 
I do but I don't know if I'd trust running it in my shed all night... 🫤 I just went ahead and pulled it and I put a towel over it with 2 pieces of cardboard, I was thinking I should inspect the clearance but I don't have a lift for this thing yet and I don't imagine cranking this thing by hand without using the read tire it very easy? The other positive to it is it only have 14k miles on it so from what I've read it's pretty slim chance of them being out I also read they usually end up getting tighter? Anyways after pulling the cover and cleaning it with dawn dish soap, there is so much black powdercoat on the mating surface ...the gasket left and embedded line in the paint around the cover... I'm going to get some sleep strip and plastic blades and work that thing until it's bare aluminum... Kinda pisses me off triumph was so careless with that. Il post some pics when I get to work and get it under some light.
just my 2 cents
i would try to measure those clearances because if you know that most of them are at the high side of the clearance then you are probably good for 30,000 miles on the other hand if some are close to the minimum clearance then you would be good to correct them .
just for the record i have about 70,000 on mine
 
You don't need a lift to turn the rear wheel to turn the crank. The 2.5 inch round cover on the front engine cove is the port to turn the crank. Doing it this way gives you a lot more feel and accuracy. You can also see the timing marks. It also make the job a lot easier if you remove 1 sparkplug per cylinder.
 
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