In their face Denali-Stebel horn Fitment.

[Claviger]

Did you just cap off all the lines at the tb once removed?

 

[GuzziLarry]

I did the same install location, but I installed the compressor under the left side cover, ran a house all the way to the front and installed the horn part under the chrome piece where the old horn was. It Fits!

Brand, model used? Do the parts separate easily? I like the thought of your mounting. , Lunatic

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Tis a Can O' Corn, Amigo.
I recently did this and with explanation from @DEcosse, it was easy peazy!

I removed my canister to make room for a horn and headlights relay. I see TB #3 has 2 vacuum type tubes on it. Pipe B from the three TBs and pipe C just from #3 TB. I know these need to be capped off.
Question: Instead of capping off all of the red hose pipe B can pipe B be connected to pipe C to close off the tubes ?

 

[cr0ft]

I'd STRONGLY recommend putting a relay between the horn and the battery. It's a super simple operation after all - wire the stock cable to the relay, and the relay to the horn and the battery.

These air horns can suck down 20 amps, and the stock wiring is almost certainly not rated to do that, the little beeper that's there usually has to use almost no current at all. It will honk just fine until it eats the fuse or something else not desirable.

At least that would be my opinion. A relay costs next to nothing, the work is super easy, and it's just so much better to be safe than sorry. This bike already has issues with too much current going through the keyswitch, too.

Edit: also, every time you push your horn button now, 20 amps will flow through that so that will probably also fry sooner or later without a relay.

Get a relay.

 

[1olbull]

I removed my canister to make room for a horn and headlights relay. I see TB #3 has 2 vacuum type tubes on it. Pipe B from the three TBs and pipe C just from #3 TB. I know these need to be capped off.
Question: Instead of capping off all of the red hose pipe B can pipe B be connected to pipe C to close off the tubes ?

That there is what I did.
And routed pipe A down to the ground.

 

[GuzziLarry]

I'd STRONGLY recommend putting a relay between the horn and the battery. It's a super simple operation after all - wire the stock cable to the relay, and the relay to the horn and the battery.

These air horns can suck down 20 amps, and the stock wiring is almost certainly not rated to do that, the little beeper that's there usually has to use almost no current at all. It will honk just fine until it eats the fuse or something else not desirable.

At least that would be my opinion. A relay costs next to nothing, the work is super easy, and it's just so much better to be safe than sorry. This bike already has issues with too much current going through the keyswitch, too.

Edit: also, every time you push your horn button now, 20 amps will flow through that so that will probably also fry sooner or later without a relay.

Get a relay.

what relay size? if horn calls for 20 amps...

 

[GuzziLarry]

what relay size? if horn calls for 20 amps...

 

[cr0ft]

what relay size? if horn calls for 20 amps...

Any 12 volt automotive 30-40 amp (or more) relay should work. I'm not sure it sucks down 20 amps exactly, I recall seeing something about 17-19 amps. Lots, either way, compared to most other things on the bike.

But the amp rating on the relay is a maximum it can handle, not something that has to match - you just need to go beyond what the horn may draw to give yourself a margin.

Something like this perhaps:


Those have relay holders and separate relays which is nice if the relay should go bad for some reason, just pop another one on there.

The fuse you should have between the relay and the battery in an in-line fuse holder on the wire however is a max "the other way", ie the maximum it can draw before the fuse pops. That should probably be a 20 amp fuse, in a fuse holder rated to go to 30 or beyond. Here's a cheap one you could splice in near the battery end for easier access.


I'm no expert at this stuff though so there may be far better choices on parts, so consider these to be loose suggestions.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

It needed only the already existing wires and mounting points.

Two unequal length brackets from L & R of triple tree joined at horn w/ left side twisted to fit as shown.

Anyone who needs the often required wiring/fuse kit I'll send my unused/unopened one for cost of shipping.

I had my first (2) Stebels mounted like that. They don't like water as they have steel diaphragms. Once they start to rust they stop working. Always covered them when washing but not real easy to do if you get caught in the rain.

 

[CanberraR3]

The Stebel will work without a relay but occasionally will sound like a duck. The more you use it that way the worse it gets. Put a relay in and you double the volume - every time.