Engine Axle Bolt in a bind during crash bar install

[ins_man]

So... We were installing a new set of German crash bars on a 2018 Rocket III Roadster. We leveled the bike up, put a scissor lift under the front of the engine for support. We tapped out the old rod with the new rod going right in behind it. When the old rod was just about out, it stopped tapping out. The new rod didn't line up with hole and was hitting the bottom lip. We tried jacking up the scissor jack but the whole bike is raising up. We tried to reverse our operation and just replace the original bolt and work on it another day as it was getting late. The old bolt went it but also got stuck on the other side hitting the bottom of the hole. Again jacking the front of the engine only raised the entire bike and didn't help the clearance at all. I am concerned that jacking it up further may damage the oil pan.

 

[Ishrub]

Did you follow the instruction sheet?
They came with my first set US Outlaw branded set on eBay from the Germany based Bike Connection Warehouse (B.C.W.) and they use their B.C.W. Trademark US Outlaw for Fehling product lines including sissy bars, racks, engine bars etc.

Look familiar? Craftride's version is just another re-branding exercise as well.
Link:
US * Outlaw but they do not have a link to these instructions that came with mine:

Page#1

Page#2

Page#3

General survey of our fields of activity
As a mail-order specialist with twice a day shipping we are well equipped to respond to customer inquiries and orders that may also come from abroad. Orders by e-mail or telephone are processed quickly. After receipt of payment the goods are packed in our warehouse and immediatlely shipped. Due to our many years of experience in the motorcycle sector, problems can often be solved quickly.

Our products can be ordered directly by phone or e-mail as well as via our eBay shop. Collection at our location is is possible on weekdays by agreement. Payment is required in advance by Paypal or bank transfer, cash on delivery or cash on collection.


Address
Bike Connection Warehouse
Helmut Karrasch
Gennaer Str. 56b
58642 Iserlohn

 

[ins_man]

Yes. Our instructions were similar. However, it seems the engine lowered a bit when the bolt went through even though we had the jack under the front of the engine with quite a bit of pressure . Now I'm unsure about jacking JUST the engine up 1/8 inch or so. The jack is raising the entire bike.

 

[Ishrub]

Yes. Our instructions were similar. However, it seems the engine lowered a bit when the bolt went through even though we had the jack under the front of the engine with quite a bit of pressure . Now I'm unsure about jacking JUST the engine up 1/8 inch or so. The jack is raising the entire bike.

From re-reading it sounds like your scissor jack did not take up the load evenly on the engine and has canted it to one side during lifting, jamming the frame to engine interface. The engine block itself is a structural part of the frame system and doesn't just sit there like in a cradle frame.
Have you got another jack, even a bottle jack with a wood block / cross plank to spread the load while you remove and re-set your scissor jack? If you take the load off you should be able to withdraw the crossbolt completely and re-align the holes before tapping the horrible threaded rod from the kit through. The stock bar bolt is shorter but has a hex nut end to hold or turn so you can work it out. The kits open ended threaded rod should be greased to prevent galling but if aligned correctly will just tap in and through both sides without great force required. If centred well on the jacks, the threaded rod does not even touch the engine block and once tightened correctly the threads should never gall the engine casing. The torque used to tighten must be correct though as the engine casting is integral to the frame geometry and handling.