JSHRAM
.060 Over
Took Mittzy up on his offer to make a switch extender harness for me so I could relocate mine to the lower left plastic panel (in front of the left side cover) like he did. I have to say that I really didn't like the stock location of that switch and Mittzy having already perfected the harness with the right plugs was just what I needed to push me over the edge to do it.
I tried my best to copy what Mittzy did, but learned a couple things that maybe I'd pass on if someone else wants to do this. It isn't hard, but it does require some tinkering.
First off, getting the switch out requires removing the top triple tree. Not sure how else you would do it, and the two screws holding the switch on are tamper proof (no heads) so I cut through the bracket holding the switch on with a dremmel. I tried to cut a grove in the heads and unscrew them, but no avail so I chopped them.
As Mittzy pointed out, the metal bracket under the plastic housing can be used to mount the switch to. Actually that plastic cover with the hole and the plug in it and the bracket with two spare holes looks like it was designed for a switch to go there.
You have to cut the electrical cable retaining wires off the bracket so that you are left with only the flat piece of metal. looking at the bracket, you'll see there is a dip in the middle which isn't enough for this switch... deepen it with more grinding. The holes where the swtich housing will bolt to area not quite in alignment, so you need to open them up (I just over-drilled them). And, you will need to open up the oblong holes in the switch housing (aluminum, so it is easy).
Next the hole in the plastic cover needs to be opened up. I drilled it with a 1-1/8" bit, then used my dremmel with a sanding drum to expand it to the 1-1/4" needed. The hole has to be oblong (fore to aft) as the switch doesn't protrude straight through the hole, it goes at an angle.
The bolts that you use to hold the switch onto the bracket will need to be low-profile heads otherwise they will impact the plastic housing, I ground mine down (see pictures).
After you get it all lined up, you'll discover that the switch barrel hits the corner of the airbox requiring some creative demolition. Forget the whole thing if you haven't deleted the stock air intake. Anyway, taking a chunk out of the corner of the airbox provides for a nice cozy spot to stuff the wires and connectors that used to be held by the retaining wire on the bracket (which we cut off). It's actually much cleaner this way than it was pre-surgery.
Here's some pictures of the operation. Thanks again to Mittzy!
John
I tried my best to copy what Mittzy did, but learned a couple things that maybe I'd pass on if someone else wants to do this. It isn't hard, but it does require some tinkering.
First off, getting the switch out requires removing the top triple tree. Not sure how else you would do it, and the two screws holding the switch on are tamper proof (no heads) so I cut through the bracket holding the switch on with a dremmel. I tried to cut a grove in the heads and unscrew them, but no avail so I chopped them.
As Mittzy pointed out, the metal bracket under the plastic housing can be used to mount the switch to. Actually that plastic cover with the hole and the plug in it and the bracket with two spare holes looks like it was designed for a switch to go there.
You have to cut the electrical cable retaining wires off the bracket so that you are left with only the flat piece of metal. looking at the bracket, you'll see there is a dip in the middle which isn't enough for this switch... deepen it with more grinding. The holes where the swtich housing will bolt to area not quite in alignment, so you need to open them up (I just over-drilled them). And, you will need to open up the oblong holes in the switch housing (aluminum, so it is easy).
Next the hole in the plastic cover needs to be opened up. I drilled it with a 1-1/8" bit, then used my dremmel with a sanding drum to expand it to the 1-1/4" needed. The hole has to be oblong (fore to aft) as the switch doesn't protrude straight through the hole, it goes at an angle.
The bolts that you use to hold the switch onto the bracket will need to be low-profile heads otherwise they will impact the plastic housing, I ground mine down (see pictures).
After you get it all lined up, you'll discover that the switch barrel hits the corner of the airbox requiring some creative demolition. Forget the whole thing if you haven't deleted the stock air intake. Anyway, taking a chunk out of the corner of the airbox provides for a nice cozy spot to stuff the wires and connectors that used to be held by the retaining wire on the bracket (which we cut off). It's actually much cleaner this way than it was pre-surgery.
Here's some pictures of the operation. Thanks again to Mittzy!
John
