How to remove ignition switch

[Kevin M]

Hi folks I was wondering if someone might be able to tell me how to remove the ignition switch from my 2007 R3 Classic. It looks like a lot more work than I anticipated. I took off the headlights and saw that the switch is retained by a bracket, I'm not sure how to remove the bracket. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[idk]

The biggest problem is removing the two tamper-proof screws which hold the unit together. You may need to score the ends in order to use a screwdriver to remove them. Others have used different methods. Replace them with metric bolts with more standard heads.

Manual is in my signature.

 

[albertaduke]

Hi folks I was wondering if someone might be able to tell me how to remove the ignition switch from my 2007 R3 Classic. It looks like a lot more work than I anticipated. I took off the headlights and saw that the switch is retained by a bracket, I'm not sure how to remove the bracket. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I did not bother with the non tamper screws as I planned to move the ignition on the left middle behind the motor I used an angle grinder and cut those two soft metal ears the advantage of it all is I MOUNTED MY GPS OVER THE DIALS and see clearly the screen

 

[Kevin M]

After looking at it again it looks looks like the screw heads look like the head of a rivet, round with a round protrusion sticking out. Also there is no room to operate in there. Does anyone know how the dealership does it?

 

[Fingers]

Try a left hand drill bit.

 

[DEcosse]

After looking at it again it looks looks like the screw heads look like the head of a rivet ....

They are actually shear bolts - the heads shear off during assembly when they reach a given torque - intended to be an anti-tamper/anti-theft measure
You need to try to either cut some slots in the top with a dremel or just drill them out completely

for re-assembly just replace with socket-cap screws

Note that there are TWO sets of shear bolts - one (larger) pair securing the complete switch assembly to the triple clamp; the other two (smaller, further inboard) mate the two halves i.e. the mechanical key-lock assembly and the electrical switch.
If replacing the switch for electrical failure, you can separate the halves and thus retain your original single key by mating replacement electrical half with original key-lock half.

 

[Jag]

I was able to use a pair of 9 1/2 side cutters to grab the shoulder of the head. They are not torqued very heavy. Mine came right out.

 

[Kevin M]

Thanks guys, I think I will attempt to split the piece in order to save the keylock portion. Mine has failed electrically.

 

[DEcosse]

From memory I believe the main screws for replacement are M6 and the mating half screws are M5
I would suggest remove the whole thing before you separate