How To: Add Pressure Input for PC-V

[Claviger]

Rob - As we EU folk have no EVAP stuff - it dawned on me it could be an interesting option. it fluctuates a lot more than .25-.5 up here.

Use any old 1bar sensor for the PCV - but get one that is calibrated and documented. Any old USB supply will give us 5V. Using a GM or VW sensor means easy access - Now where are these unused ports? - Are they threaded or push on? - If threaded what thread?.

The three capped off ports when you remove EVAP are located right next to the three leading up to the MAP sensor. Just nipples.

 

[Claviger]

What you’d optimally use if adding hardware is something with a documented scale, something like this:

NEW GM STYLE 1 BAR MAP Sensor For Electromotive Motec Megasquirt w/ Plug | eBay

Run to a combined vacuum chamber to smooth the pulses out, then feed it to PC-V.

Definitely a technically superior solution, just requires doing a lot more than using the stock piece.

 

[barbagris]

What you’d optimally use if adding hardware is something with a documented scale, something like this:

NEW GM STYLE 1 BAR MAP Sensor For Electromotive Motec Megasquirt w/ Plug | eBay

Run to a combined vacuum chamber to smooth the pulses out, then feed it to PC-V.

Definitely a technically superior solution, just requires doing a lot more than using the stock piece.

Well Hell - That's not work. Can get that type of sensor easily over here (UK) too. I can order one or two for delivery to my mum.

So sir has the documentation?.

Is it the 0-5V 10-1050hPa thing here? Map Sensor Pressure vs Voltage - If so I have the precise specs too somewhere.

Ah yes - Found it Though I think I have better still on the other PC.

GM 1 bar map sensor Linear and offsets for kPa (not hPa)
MAP Sensor Linear: 94.43
MAP Sensor Offset: 10.34

GM Map Sensor Identification - scale - offset - settings - Sloppy Mechanics Wiki

Interestingly - this last page shows MOUNTING ORIENTATION - Now That is something I had NOT considered with the OEM Triumph one. Hmmmmmm

 

[Claviger]

If it’s megasquirt compatible, then there will be full documentation for sure.

TBH, I am not sure why I haven’t just switched over already, it’s an amazing ECU for very little money, comparatively speaking ofc.

 

[barbagris]

TBH, I am not sure why I haven’t just switched over already,

They blow up gearboxes - or was that something else?
My Google-fu was not strong yesterday.

 

[WyldCFH]

Ok so two questions for you @Claviger

1. Would a dyno tuner know what to do with this? I know nothing about this and reading the description made me say "ummm, nope" But I would go through the trouble if a dyno tuner would understand.

2. Since stating above I know not of what you are doing, would it be better just to use the 9k map that @R-III-R Turbo posted and mentioned a few pages back that also has the granularity built in? Which I am assuming the tuner would not have an issue with.

 

[Claviger]

1. Any tuner worth a **** would know how to use it. Chances are they’ll decline the work though because it means they’ll need more time on the dyno, so they’ll actually have to work for the 300-400 bucks, and most timers are lazy as ****.

2. Yes they’ll know what to do and yes there’s no reason to not use that map. Just leave all values above your redline at 0. See above about tuners being lazy and maybe not wanting to do the extra work.


Not having the best day, so my nice filter is turned off.

 

[WyldCFH]

1. Any tuner worth a **** would know how to use it. Chances are they’ll decline the work though because it means they’ll need more time on the dyno, so they’ll actually have to work for the 300-400 bucks, and most timers are lazy as ****.

2. Yes they’ll know what to do and yes there’s no reason to not use that map. Just leave all values above your redline at 0. See above about tuners being lazy and maybe not wanting to do the extra work.


Not having the best day, so my nice filter is turned off.

Thanks for the answers.

No worries about the language/attitude, I honestly didn't notice.

 

[barbagris]

Not having the best day, so my nice filter is turned off.

**** I could use one of those - a switch-able one. Mine is pressure based - Blood Pressure usually. Where do you get them?

 

[barbagris]

So - I have been playing the last couple of days and have discovered quite a few things that have me convinced that this way of mapping far outweighs TPS for vehicles that will be used on roads rather than tracks. Apart from now being very very smooth - some things like decel popping become very predictable - If you can predict you can reproduce, avoid or ignore.
Some of this marked difference is almost certainly due to me living at a "respectably non sea level" altitude - which renders many "this worked on mine" tunes useless.

I am far from finished.

I think it is more a HOW YOU RIDE way of thinking than a "POWER AT ALL COSTS". It is NOT intuitive at all.
Without DATA and the time and ability to analyse it (with guidance from somebody who knows - Thanks Rob!) - Find somebody who does. PAY THEM. And prepare to pay them well.

Personally I believe to get the best out of it - you have to use MAP/GEAR. Better granularity.
Personally I believe that 100% secondaries all the time - make this type of tuning even harder. I use the secondaries - but NOT Triumphs values.
Personally I believe my R3 has always run a bit rich. And it seems to prefer things a little leaner.
Personally I believe that flattening out the pressure transitions WILL be effective - The Plenum Chamber Is ready - I just need to find a place (and the courage) to do so. - Edited - I am not happy about cutting a stock vacuum tube to slot the t-piece in. Irrational - maybe - but paranoia is what it is.