Help please - motor knocking sound in new-to-me '09 R3T

Jeremy said:
I ordered this since I have some time before I can ride.

T1140188 - Triumph Spacer, Spring, Tensioner. Camshaft, Illustrated, Fit, Engine, Drive | HERMYS TRIUMPH eSTORE, Port Clinton PA

I just need to swap the springs and I'm good right?
Click to expand...
Pretty sure the part you have linked is the 0.355" (9mm) spacer 'slug' that @warp9.9 mentioned could be easily replaced by a length of un-threaded bolt stem cut to the size he provided. This places extra preload tension on the spring like a preload adjustment on a rear shock.

Then if the 16.00 spacer is needed you can make it out of the shank of a 10 mm bolt just .355" long.
Click to expand...

The aftermarket spring I listed from an UK eBay seller would be the other option or follow Warp's instructions and do it your self with a 10c bolt or the $12 Triumph part.

Try and cancel order?
 
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So I got the spacer and put it into the hole and now I cannot get the spring and screw back on.....what did I do wrong
 
Jeremy said:
So I got the spacer and put it into the hole and now I cannot get the spring and screw back on.....what did I do wrong
Click to expand...

Ok, here is my dilemma. I put the slug in and could not get the nut back on. The spring compresses all the way where the nut just reaches to start threading.

Not thinking, I took the (2) 8mm bolts out holding the tensioner on.

Question 1.....did I mess up by taking that off or can I now just put it back on and be good????

With that said, once the tensioner was off I got the slug out and noticed that 2 slugs came out. The one i took out and evidently the previous owner put one in there, unless there is one in there from stock....

Question 2.....do i put in 1 slug and the spring and center but and leave it as it was? The drop is greater than 16......
 
@warp9.9 for confirmation but it may suggest you need a new spring. @Turk checked his and found the spring was too short BUT ALSO the parts of the tensioner itself had worn and no longer held oil as the tolerances had increased allowing it all to drain out of the tensioner unit. We noticed that my bike 's less worn one retained a lot of oil when removed from the bike and his did not.

I believe as long as you DO NOT turn the engine over before refitting it should be fine. If you turn the engine even slightly the cam chain may slip on the cam sprockets and cause major damage when bike started.

There are a few cheap used units from wreckers on eBay with supposedly low mileage history and may be way to go or get an APE or @Neville Lush manual adjustment version for less than original replacement cost.

Neville sent me one a few weeks ago for Au$120 + postage.
Neville Lush Racing - Home

 
In order to understand, when the center nut is taken off or the tensioner is removed, there should be oil in it?
 
As you dismantle it after removal there should be a good amount of oil that should need wiping off etc. It should be a close sliding fit of the components that retains some oil after removal. If it is a loose sloppy fit it may be also the tensioner barrel itself that is worn as well as the spring. I imagine if the spring is low on resistance the parts may shuttle back and forward more under chain movement causing wear.
 
Ok good, there is some oil that did need to be wiped and it does seem tight and not a sloppy fit.
 
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