Heat shield for starter click

[TURBO200R4]

has it got good volts at the solenoid (starter) ??
if u put extra wire on solenoid and touch to bat that would tell u problem is in solenoid/ starter or the wiring.
if u have a resistance prob the hotter it gets the worse it gets.(the more juice it draws)
i had this problem on an old gmc with headers. i finally put a ford solenoid on that put a wire from the bat to the starter. no more problems.
on my gmc when it would start it would barely move the amp gauge when it would not start it would peg the amp gauge so i would not hold the button very long or u might let the smoke out,
on the older ones the put the cat beside the starter i would imagine that would be the most heat.
i also have the extra ground,the 1.4 and the cat gone and a crossover. i have noticed that as the starter is breaking in the faster it turns over the motor the next time i ride it i will check starting it when i get home we have some heat here
getting back to your shield several companies put a shield on their solenoids especially gm to keep the exhaust heat off the solenoid.
if u r getting the click (as in the starter is engaging ) what is happening is the starter is drawing the voltage down until the starter relay does not have enough power to keep it engaged.
hth

 

[Tripps]

I have a stock exhaust system minus the header laying in the barn, might be able to cut a shield out of that if you wanted to try, I could cut off the part you wanted and mail it.

 

[R3T-Too]

I have a stock exhaust system minus the header laying in the barn, might be able to cut a shield out of that if you wanted to try, I could cut off the part you wanted and mail it.

Thanks Tripps, I appreciate the offter; but looking at the crossover, there's a bracket that projects forward right where I'd need to block the heat.
I'm going to have to work with some thing that's easy to bend. I think I have a piece of sheet metal that's about the size I need sitting in a scrap box. So, I'll start there.

 

[R3T-Too]

has it got good volts at the solenoid (starter) ??
if u put extra wire on solenoid and touch to bat that would tell u problem is in solenoid/ starter or the wiring.
if u have a resistance prob the hotter it gets the worse it gets.(the more juice it draws)
i had this problem on an old gmc with headers. i finally put a ford solenoid on that put a wire from the bat to the starter. no more problems.
on my gmc when it would start it would barely move the amp gauge when it would not start it would peg the amp gauge so i would not hold the button very long or u might let the smoke out,
on the older ones the put the cat beside the starter i would imagine that would be the most heat.
i also have the extra ground,the 1.4 and the cat gone and a crossover. i have noticed that as the starter is breaking in the faster it turns over the motor the next time i ride it i will check starting it when i get home we have some heat here
getting back to your shield several companies put a shield on their solenoids especially gm to keep the exhaust heat off the solenoid.
if u r getting the click (as in the starter is engaging ) what is happening is the starter is drawing the voltage down until the starter relay does not have enough power to keep it engaged.
hth

I'm getting the solenoid to click. A Very loud, strong click. I'm sure the piston is hitting the contacts hard.
The starter motor isn't turning when hot. So, yes I believe I'm getting a heat induced resistance problem.

I think it's the windings in the starter that are getting hot (due to how close it is to the crossover) and causing the problems.

 

[Tripps]

Carpenter exhaust would fix that problem, no crossover.

 

[TURBO200R4]

well while eating lunch i was thinking about this thread when i realized that we were thinking different thoughts
i was looking at this like u had a starter problem and i think that u r looking at it like a heat problem.
so i will approach it like it is a heat problem and maybe i can help.
the only heat related problems i have ever seen has been when headers/exhaust have heated up the starter solenoid that is why they make heat shields for them. when a starter solenoid gets to hot it expands and locks the piston keeping it locked so it will not engage the contacts on the starter.
when u hear the solenoid engage that is the sound that it is working and if it is stuck u will not hear a sound but the starter relay clicking.
so if we assume that the solenoid is working (because it is clicking) the only thing i can see would be that the contacts r not connecting when it gets hot or u have a prob with the voltage when hot.
the best way to check your heat prob would be to add a wire to the starter solenoid and when it gets to hot to start then place that wire on the positive terminal and see if it cranks.
if it cranks the problem is not the heat if it does not crank then start working with your shields or starter.

 

[R3T-Too]

Carpenter exhaust would fix that problem, no crossover.

I've given it some thought. The extra hp of a full system would be nice. But this thing can get pretty **** hot already. (felt heat)
Did the R3T have a problem with the megaphone?

 

[R3T-Too]

well while eating lunch i was thinking about this thread when i realized that we were thinking different thoughts
i was looking at this like u had a starter problem and i think that u r looking at it like a heat problem.
so i will approach it like it is a heat problem and maybe i can help.
the only heat related problems i have ever seen has been when headers/exhaust have heated up the starter solenoid that is why they make heat shields for them. when a starter solenoid gets to hot it expands and locks the piston keeping it locked so it will not engage the contacts on the starter.
when u hear the solenoid engage that is the sound that it is working and if it is stuck u will not hear a sound but the starter relay clicking.
so if we assume that the solenoid is working (because it is clicking) the only thing i can see would be that the contacts r not connecting when it gets hot or u have a prob with the voltage when hot.
the best way to check your heat prob would be to add a wire to the starter solenoid and when it gets to hot to start then place that wire on the positive terminal and see if it cranks.
if it cranks the problem is not the heat if it does not crank then start working with your shields or starter.

I do appreciate the suggestions.
It's easy enough to tell that it's heat related.
TBH installing a shield will be cheaper & less work than installing a solenoid bypass and removing the seat next time it happens.

 

[TURBO200R4]

ok i hope that works

 

[Tripps]

Never really noticed any extra heat. And once you have the pipe, heck, might as well get the engine package too.