Heat shield for starter click

[barbagris]

TBH installing a shield will be cheaper & less work than installing a solenoid bypass and removing the seat next time it happens.

I wish I could remember where I saw a "solution" which involved liquid (not water) cooling for issues like this. Was non conductive and iirc the test videos were starter motors.

 

[R3T-Too]

@TURBO200R4
I got to thinking about the issue while I was putting on my shield yesterday and remembered there are two clicks on the solenoid.
One when I hit the starter button and it's energized (piston hitting the contacts) and a second click a moment or two later when I release the starter button (piston hitting the backplate).
This tells me that the relay IS remaining engaged and the solenoid IS operating (at least mechanically).

I'm hoping that keeping my starter cooler will solve my problem. But, I'm still curious about the issue.
I'm thinking that if it were a voltage drop problem; the solenoid would not remain engaged while I held the button. Is that correct?
If it's electrical in nature, it must be that the piston doesn't make contact (when hot) and close the circuit?

 

[R3T-Too]

I wish I could remember where I saw a "solution" which involved liquid (not water) cooling for issues like this. Was non conductive and iirc the test videos were starter motors.

Curious to think about. Probably to spendy to implement.

 

[barbagris]

I'm thinking that if it were a voltage drop problem; the solenoid would not remain engaged while I held the button. Is that correct?

The drop is a really short term drop - just basically until the battery chemistry reacts to the demand. Lead Acid batteries will pump out Amps at the cost of Volts in this moment. Lithium will favour Volts over amps. And if they are COLD lithium's can take a while to realise they have to react.

What matters is WATTS - Kilowatt in fact. If the battery cannot dump that out for 3-4 seconds - it's dying. If it can cope with 10s it's good.

ARE YOU SURE THE STARTER SOLENOID CONTACTS ARE GOOD. I am wondering if heat causes some sort of expansion such that the plunger does not bridge the contacts correctly. It's a thought not a theory!.

 

[TURBO200R4]

just my opinion
if it was the contacts for the starter when u hit the button i would think that it would stay connected(solenoid energized) and just not spin the starter.
what i think is happening is when u hit the button and the contacts energize the starter i drops volts and either starter sole or starter relay disengage.
to check
volt meter on pos hit starter button if it drops below 10 volts bad battery, starter drawing to many amps,corrosion ect.
i know it sounds like work to put a wire on the solenoid but guessing is a lot of work also(unless u r real lucky)
if u have the wire u can check volts at that solenoid which might be a lot diff from bat.
a simple alligator clip would work if it does not touch something.
also i seem to remember other threads that had corrosion on the ground where it goes to the block.

 

[R3T-Too]

Battery is good. The voltage drop at battery is normal. All posts, all connections are clean & tight (no corrosion).
Never have a slow start. Either it spins like a top or it clicks.

Considering that I'm getting a click when I hit the button & a click when I let it off....
It's gotta be that the current is interrupted after the battery side terminal on the solenoid.
Either a wiring problem inside the motor, or most likely, one or both contacts in the solenoid are positioned in such a way as to prevent good contact when hot.

If I get the click again; I'll pack my multi-meter in a side bag and check the voltage at the motor terminal of the starter.
I know a solenoid bypass would give a pass/fail result in form of a spinning starter. But, I should be able to tell more with the meter anyway.

 

[barbagris]

Might be worth investing in a set of these - I have two in my "forewarned is forearmed" parts store Home - RepairkitsUK | Starter Motor Repair Kits | Don't Buy a New Start Motor - Repair It

 

[Claviger]

I would use a DEI flexible heat shield. It already has metal fixing for being attached to a round object, eg starter motor. Fold it in a U shape so the uncovered area of the starter is the sides, covering the end, top, and bottom so air can flow across the starter but any radiant heat from the exhaust is blocked.

Something like this, I've used it on the headers and it worked great, resisting a ton more heat than you'll get on the cross over with no discoloring or burning at all :

 

[gR3yWolf]

If you really think it is heat related, then buy an inexpensive CO2 fire extinguisher at WalyWorldMart. Blast the started the next time you have an issue.

 

[R3T-Too]

I would use a DEI flexible heat shield. It already has metal fixing for being attached to a round object, eg starter motor. Fold it in a U shape so the uncovered area of the starter is the sides, covering the end, top, and bottom so air can flow across the starter but any radiant heat from the exhaust is blocked.

Something like this, I've used it on the headers and it worked great, resisting a ton more heat than you'll get on the cross over with no discoloring or burning at all :

I have my headers wrapped with DEI Titanium wrap. That looks nice, didn't know they made it like a patch.
I've got a piece of sheet metal mounted to the crossover that rests between the pipe & the starter/solenoid. Just a bit of heat deflection at stops & slow traffic should do what I'm wanting.