Finally! ADV Monster M30 offroad (he he) spotlights INSTALLED

[barbagris]

What do you mean by "dip cut off"?

When your dip headlights are on there's a horizontal "line" above which there's no light. i.e. light above this line is CUT OFF.
In reality it's reflected or refracted to somewhere else - normally down onto the road. Without this you'll dazzle anybody coming the other way.

Most of the cheap LED lights out there are defined as OFF-ROAD or WORK lights. They emit a cone of light forwards. No redirection of light - just a homogeneous cone.
The better fog and driving lights don't cut light off . They also use lenses or reflectors to focus the light correctly to where the light needs to be.

The TRIUMPH FOGS literally CUT OFF - there's an aluminium plate that blocks off 50% of the light (the bit that would go up.
Many cheaper Polyellipsoidal (bullseye lens) lights do the same btw.
My converted Triumph Fogs retain the plate - the driving lights do not and the light source repositioned so they emit a VERY narrow beam.

A LOT of the E-Bay specials are in fact FLOOD beams - 45º - I've seen as wide as 60º - This reduces throw or range.
A SPOT (driving light on vehicles) beam is generally in the region of 20º, LONG RANGE closer to 7º or 8º

There are some interesting LED headlight reviews and comparisons at www.bogiesreviews.webs.com

 

[Joker]

When your dip headlights are on there's a horizontal "line" above which there's no light. i.e. light above this line is CUT OFF.
In reality it's reflected or refracted to somewhere else - normally down onto the road. Without this you'll dazzle anybody coming the other way.

Most of the cheap LED lights out there are defined as OFF-ROAD or WORK lights. They emit a cone of light forwards. No redirection of light - just a homogeneous cone.
The better fog and driving lights don't cut light off . They also use lenses or reflectors to focus the light correctly to where the light needs to be.

The TRIUMPH FOGS literally CUT OFF - there's an aluminium plate that blocks off 50% of the light (the bit that would go up.
Many cheaper Polyellipsoidal (bullseye lens) lights do the same btw.
My converted Triumph Fogs retain the plate - the driving lights do not and the light source repositioned so they emit a VERY narrow beam.

A LOT of the E-Bay specials are in fact FLOOD beams - 45º - I've seen as wide as 60º - This reduces throw or range.
A SPOT (driving light on vehicles) beam is generally in the region of 20º, LONG RANGE closer to 7º or 8º

There are some interesting LED headlight reviews and comparisons at www.bogiesreviews.webs.com

Loads of good info there mate, thanks.

 

[barbagris]

Loads of good info there mate, thanks.

Those reviews on the web are really good imo. Helped me decide what to do. Nice comparison photos - says more than words can.

Sadly ONLY J.W.Speaker does a 5&3/4" LED.

"T" owners have more choice in 7" - and the images suggest that the TRUCKLITE PHASE7 maybe better.

I know the J.W.Speaker headlights are BLOODY expensive - but so is a Supercharger. The cutoff's are VERY sharp. It's a very binary system - LIGHT or NO LIGHT - no scatter. And not everybody likes it.

imo you need some extra "close in light" as there is a lower cut off too. My home conversions seem OK at this - but if I were doing it from SCRATCH :-

I'd fit J.W.SPEAKER FOGS (6050 or new 6150) and PIAA 1100 LED (or anything <20º with a CREE XM-L or XM-L2 LED) DRIVING. Fogs imo are better highish up on the forks so nothing obstructs the beam (I'm not interested in lighting up my front tyre). - driving can go lower near the radiator as the beam is narrower.

J.W.SPEAKER for we in the EU has the advantage they're € marked.

I'l try and get some decent night shots done.

 

[Joker]

Those reviews on the web are really good imo. Helped me decide what to do. Nice comparison photos - says more than words can.

Sadly ONLY J.W.Speaker does a 5&3/4" LED.

"T" owners have more choice in 7" - and the images suggest that the TRUCKLITE PHASE7 maybe better.

I know the J.W.Speaker headlights are BLOODY expensive - but so is a Supercharger. The cutoff's are VERY sharp. It's a very binary system - LIGHT or NO LIGHT - no scatter. And not everybody likes it.

imo you need some extra "close in light" as there is a lower cut off too. My home conversions seem OK at this - but if I were doing it from SCRATCH :-

I'd fit J.W.SPEAKER FOGS (6050 or new 6150) and PIAA 1100 LED (or anything <20º with a CREE XM-L or XM-L2 LED) DRIVING. Fogs imo are better highish up on the forks so nothing obstructs the beam (I'm not interested in lighting up my front tyre). - driving can go lower near the radiator as the beam is narrower.

J.W.SPEAKER for we in the EU has the advantage they're € marked.

I'l try and get some decent night shots done.

Thanks Chris.
I think two 7" Phase 7s may be a bit OTT and involve a bit more work that I would like, inc flyscreen mods, so I'll probably go the way you suggest.

 

[barbagris]

Thanks Chris.
I think two 7" Phase 7s may be a bit OTT and involve a bit more work that I would like, inc flyscreen mods, so I'll probably go the way you suggest.

Maybe, though I did photoshop the idea of 2*7" out.



2* 5&3/4" JWS



UK supplier of JWS http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=120_231&products_id=350

 

[Willtill]

These LED's are working very well. I am being seen more. With the LED's burning, as well as the two modulating headlamps; I had twice as many people clear the lane in front of me on the Interstate today 8) A small win for the odds stacked up against us.

 

[Blastedbones]

These LED's are working very well. I am being seen more. With the LED's burning, as well as the two modulating headlamps; I had twice as many people clear the lane in front of me on the Interstate today 8) A small win for the odds stacked up against us.

Sounds like ya need em, from what's been happenin recently!!! :eek3:

 

[barbagris]

These LED's are working very well. I am being seen more.

Suggests a wide angle. Ideal to be seen by rather than to see with.

My efforts so far have been more to see with. i.e focused to where I want to see at night. But both Led headlights plus all four LED auxiliaries and you can see car interiors light up inside in Spanish summer daylight. And still drawing less power than 2 halogen headlights. Off axis though - there's no scatter so they offer little gain as "be seen by" lights.

I found some SMALL 10W LED things I'm trying to coax into use in daylight without appearing an afterthought http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrathin...-eye-rear-backup-reverse-tail-lamp-black-pair - for reference that's an M10*1 fine thread. The need to mounted into something that acts as a heat sink - which is my current challenge. My first mock-up had them getting VERY warm VERY fast. Patience!

Here in the EU Daylight running lights have become a pre-requisite on new vehicles (cars certainly and bikes will come soon). And I've been observing which work well and which don't and contemplating why. imo the ones that work best are in the middle of a big dark or shadowed area.

I promise also to show how you can make really good tiny (35mmO/D) spots (20º ish beam - 1200lumens) using CHEAP torch componets.