exhaust popping on deceleration

[barbagris]

The egg is for added Cholesterol

Thank god! - for a moment I thought you were on a diet.

 

[warp9.9]

Thank god! - for a moment I thought you were on a diet.

Actually after 2 months of fast food I decided to buy myself a electric skillet which then increases the cholesterol intake. SO since I have been shy on the polish cooking what better to start out with then Kiszka (Blood Sausage) the Kabanosy is like a polish slim jim they make dry cured and fresh smoke since all I have is salt and pepper I bought a vadailia onion a couple bulbs of garlic and figured I could get some grease in the pan with the Kabanosy along with some smoked flavors. They did not have any smoked Kiszka. In fact even though the kid at the counter definitely had a Polish accent I think he was freaked out that some merican was asking about blood sausage Especially when I asked if he had some Czernina!!!!!
Anyway a quaint store for cholesterol !!!!!!!!!!

 

[Msmitch459]

Oh and right off hand from reading you post above, I am not sure you set the TPS right but when we are done it will be
Good enjoy.
You are not pulling the cables we are going to insure they have proper free play in them. Pull cable gets checked up on the throttle grip return cable free play is Checked on the throttle wheel of the throttle body. After we check them we will decide if they need adjustment or if yours is fine. I will snap a picture out of the manual in which I am not sure which years manual you have but it will be in the Fuel system management section. Also if you can post a picture of the fine adjusters up top so I can see that you have the ability to adjust them either way it would be great. Not that we are going to use them I just want to make sure you could if needed in either direction on both. Otherwise you would end up like the people who put my bike back together and not have adjustment up there.

Remember we first check and verify proper free play in both cables. With any luck yours are fine but if not we will make sure they are before we move on. Enjoy your ride its to hot down here so I am stuck working except I did get to cook for myself for the first time in a few months. I just got tired of fast food so I made some Kiszka, fried in onions and garlic with some Kabanosy as a poor mans seasons. The egg is for added Cholesterol
Mine move 3.1 mm

Here is the picture from the book I was referring to

 

[warp9.9]

Looks like page 11.119 turn the page to 11.120 and see if it looks like the picture I posted if so we are at least on the right pages. notice the arrows on#4 Closing cable - free play measurement point and in the throttle grip picture #5 is Opening cable free play measurement point this is the two places we check to insure the proper free play . Note do not purposely hold the throttle grip closed when checking the closing cable free play. You want it in a normally close position (not forced). Major adjustments on both are made down at the throttle cam down on the throttle body, fine adjustments are made up top (think of the fine adjusters as lengthening or shortening the cable sheath). Free play is important so the stepper motor is not fighting the cables in either direction.

 

[Msmitch459]

Looks like page 11.119 turn the page to 11.120 and see if it looks like the picture I posted if so we are at least on the right pages. notice the arrows on#4 Closing cable - free play measurement point and in the throttle grip picture #5 is Opening cable free play measurement point this is the two places we check to insure the proper free play . Note do not purposely hold the throttle grip closed when checking the closing cable free play. You want it in a normally close position (not forced). Major adjustments on both are made down at the throttle cam down on the throttle body, fine adjustments are made up top (think of the fine adjusters as lengthening or shortening the cable sheath). Free play is important so the stepper motor is not fighting the cables in either direction.

Yes.
Now I'm working off the phone app. My laptop won't link anymore. I just ran through this and I can't find a way to see the the volts for each cylinder. I've double-tapped each cylinder to see if it'll change the voltage but it does not do that.

 

[warp9.9]

Yes.
Now I'm working off the phone app. My laptop won't link anymore. I just ran through this and I can't find a way to see the the volts for each cylinder. I've double-tapped each cylinder to see if it'll change the voltage but it does not do that.

OK I have to admit I do not have the phone app and am not experienced with the phone stuff hopefully someone with the knowledge will chime in. I am not sure what your trying to achieve with your statement of voltage on each cylinder? if your talking about balancing the throttle bodies they are not voltages they are vacuum readings in some type of milli-bar stuff. Like the old days of balancing carbs only the ecu takes the vac reading using the map sensor and crank sensor to decide which cylinder it is reading or in this case to display each cylinder. Also if your having problems getting the TPS light to turn green I hear sometimes it does not. When I want to make sure I am linked to the ecu I go to the test page and test the fan double click on it and if the fan turns on and runs a bit and shuts off you are linked and it will tell you on the bottom of the screen when the fan test is complete.


Balancing the throttle bodies is done while the engine is running.


The ISCV reset/check is with the engine not running but powered up. When changing or adjusting the primary TPS it must be done via ISCV reset so you can tell the ecu to retract the stepper motor and idle speed control cam away from the throttle roller bottom left of page 11.131 for a picture. This is done by double clicking the ISCV reset and when the stepper motor is fully retracted it allows the throttle to close on its preset stop. Thus throttle closed and then you set or verify the primary TPS voltage is at .60 volts +/- .02 volts. After the voltage is set (or verified if you do not have to adjust it) then you will double click the ISCV reset again and the ecu will move the stepper motor .12 volts +/- .05 volts you will verify this on the same screen by checking total voltage .60 plus the .12 volts to read .72 volts. if it is not within the Tolerances specified you will then use a 7 mm wrench on the nut of the stepper motor shaft again pictured on page 11.130 middle left of the page #3 and on Page 11.132 #1. once Voltages are correct you will double click the ISCV reset again and monitor the bottom of the screen on the computer (not sure but probably on the phone app also but again I lead stupidity on the phone app) it will tell you not to touch anything while adaptation is in progress. It will also tell you when its done.

A note about compiling tolerances which is allowed but you must take the first setting tolerance in count. look at page 11.132 top paragraph#18 so you can take it in account. If it confuses you I can explain further but I do not want to overload your mind right now.

Myself in the case of your bike I would first check throttle cable free play (no Computer or phone needed).
Second I would fire her up and balance the throttle bodies. page 11.121 ignore the triumph tool stuff and insert the thought I am using tune ecu so I get to actually see the vacuum numbers.

Third after they are balanced shut her off double check cable free play quickly in case you did a lot of adjusting (should be fine though) and then perform a ISCV reset/check ( I say ISCV reset/check as you might not have to adjust anything) run the whole ISCV reset thru the steps so it will adapt to anything you have moved not moved or done. Then after that's and you cycle the ignition key and put you head light fuse back in.

Fourth fire her up while linked and verify throttle body balance as you did before adjust if needed but it probably won't unless the spring linkages were in a bind)

Fifth go out and ride her and see how she is.

I hope this is not to much to digest if so

 

[Msmitch459]

OK I have to admit I do not have the phone app and am not experienced with the phone stuff hopefully someone with the knowledge will chime in. I am not sure what your trying to achieve with your statement of voltage on each cylinder? if your talking about balancing the throttle bodies they are not voltages they are vacuum readings in some type of milli-bar stuff. Like the old days of balancing carbs only the ecu takes the vac reading using the map sensor and crank sensor to decide which cylinder it is reading or in this case to display each cylinder. Also if your having problems getting the TPS light to turn green I hear sometimes it does not. When I want to make sure I am linked to the ecu I go to the test page and test the fan double click on it and if the fan turns on and runs a bit and shuts off you are linked and it will tell you on the bottom of the screen when the fan test is complete.


Balancing the throttle bodies is done while the engine is running.


The ISCV reset/check is with the engine not running but powered up. When changing or adjusting the primary TPS it must be done via ISCV reset so you can tell the ecu to retract the stepper motor and idle speed control cam away from the throttle roller bottom left of page 11.131 for a picture. This is done by double clicking the ISCV reset and when the stepper motor is fully retracted it allows the throttle to close on its preset stop. Thus throttle closed and then you set or verify the primary TPS voltage is at .60 volts +/- .02 volts. After the voltage is set (or verified if you do not have to adjust it) then you will double click the ISCV reset again and the ecu will move the stepper motor .12 volts +/- .05 volts you will verify this on the same screen by checking total voltage .60 plus the .12 volts to read .72 volts. if it is not within the Tolerances specified you will then use a 7 mm wrench on the nut of the stepper motor shaft again pictured on page 11.130 middle left of the page #3 and on Page 11.132 #1. once Voltages are correct you will double click the ISCV reset again and monitor the bottom of the screen on the computer (not sure but probably on the phone app also but again I lead stupidity on the phone app) it will tell you not to touch anything while adaptation is in progress. It will also tell you when its done.

A note about compiling tolerances which is allowed but you must take the first setting tolerance in count. look at page 11.132 top paragraph#18 so you can take it in account. If it confuses you I can explain further but I do not want to overload your mind right now.

Myself in the case of your bike I would first check throttle cable free play (no Computer or phone needed).
Second I would fire her up and balance the throttle bodies. page 11.121 ignore the triumph tool stuff and insert the thought I am using tune ecu so I get to actually see the vacuum numbers.

Third after they are balanced shut her off double check cable free play quickly in case you did a lot of adjusting (should be fine though) and then perform a ISCV reset/check ( I say ISCV reset/check as you might not have to adjust anything) run the whole ISCV reset thru the steps so it will adapt to anything you have moved not moved or done. Then after that's and you cycle the ignition key and put you head light fuse back in.

Fourth fire her up while linked and verify throttle body balance as you did before adjust if needed but it probably won't unless the spring linkages were in a bind)

Fifth go out and ride her and see how she is.

I hope this is not to much to digest if so[/QUOT
When I plug in the laptop I keep getting the time out warning that states unable to link. Turn the ignition on and off then try again. It's not linking.
Next, when I plug my phone in I can do a lot but I don't see ISCV. I can ISC and I can make adjustments but it only goes to TPS and I'm at .61V and the next step I'm at .72V. This is all done with the bike on but not running.
I guess I can't do what you're asking or I'm not understanding. I'm also apprehensive because the bike is running great I just want to get rid of this dam popping. Are you tell me this is causing my issue?

 

[Msmitch459]

When I plug in the laptop I keep getting the time out warning that states unable to link. Turn the ignition on and off then try again. It's not linking.
Next, when I plug my phone in I can do a lot but I don't see ISCV. I can ISC and I can make adjustments but it only goes to TPS and I'm at .61V and the next step I'm at .72V. This is all done with the bike on but not running.
I guess I can't do what you're asking or I'm not understanding. I'm also apprehensive because the bike is running great I just want to get rid of this dam popping. Are you tell me this is causing my issue?

 

[warp9.9]

When I plug in the laptop I keep getting the time out warning that states unable to link. Turn the ignition on and off then try again. It's not linking.
Next, when I plug my phone in I can do a lot but I don't see ISCV. I can ISC and I can make adjustments but it only goes to TPS and I'm at .61V and the next step I'm at .72V. This is all done with the bike on but not running.
I guess I can't do what you're asking or I'm not understanding. I'm also apprehensive because the bike is running great I just want to get rid of this dam popping. Are you tell me this is causing my issue?

Sounds to me like the phone is doing the ISCV but just calling it ISC. The numbers look good. Do yoi know if the phone has reset adaptations on it? And is the popping just on decel? If so I would ask what type of pipes and what tune your running we might just need to make a L table adjustment. I will try to find the tine ecu for the phone and down load it. Maybe it will give me a idea of how it works even though I do not have the cable. I'll work on it. Meanwhile hopefully some one who knows the phone app will chime in. Have you done a 22 minite tune lately? It must be done from a cold start up so the engine has to heat the coolant. There is a section in the manual that explains it. I'll check when I get nack to the house.

 

[Msmitch459]

Sounds to me like the phone is doing the ISCV but just calling it ISC. The numbers look good. Do yoi know if the phone has reset adaptations on it? And is the popping just on decel? If so I would ask what type of pipes and what tune your running we might just need to make a L table adjustment. I will try to find the tine ecu for the phone and down load it. Maybe it will give me a idea of how it works even though I do not have the cable. I'll work on it. Meanwhile hopefully some one who knows the phone app will chime in. Have you done a 22 minite tune lately? It must be done from a cold start up so the engine has to heat the coolant. There is a section in the manual that explains it. I'll check when I get nack to the house.

I'll email you the map. It's from Hanso and he's tried to tweak it.
Yes, the popping is just on decel.
Yes, I can and I have reset adaptations.
The tune I'm going to send you is one I just installed from Hanso, when I removed my secondary's. I rest adaptations and did the 12 minute tune then. This was maybe a week ago. I reset them again today but I haven't run the 12 minute tune yet. I was thinking about trying the map you sent me.
As I stated in the beginning I have Jardine's for the exhaust 3 into 1 headers and then out to 2. The side you can see in my aviator is welded. where it crosses under the bike I have 2 exhaust clamps. I've looked all around there with smoke but can't fide a leak. The header connection is the hardest for me but I will buy another set of crush gaskets and reinstall with more high temp sealer. Maybe if I use 2 sets with sealant the leak, if I have one will stop.
The part I can't seem to get to is the adjustment for the cylinders. I can see the screws. I just can't reach them with what I have here at home. I can only assume that if I have the bike running and I can reach these screws, I would be able to make and see the adjustment on my phone.