exhaust popping on deceleration

[Msmitch459]

I have an 09 classic and I can’t get the decal popping to quit.

It started after I installed a set of Jardines. I had the ramair already but after I put these pipes on the popping started. I had installed a map from Hanso so I tried him and he made some tweaks here and there but with no affect. He thought it could be a leak so I welded the part that came off the headers and headed straight back. The one that crosses over underneath is clamped with large exhaust clamps. Yes, I used new crush gaskets. I’ve looked for leaks but found none. Last year I removed these and reinstalled my factory pipes and map and the popping went away. I loved the performance that I had so I put the Jardines back on.

My wife and have put many miles on this bike and love her but we’re getting tired of this noise. Who’s running with Jardines exhaust and do you have this issue? What map are you using? Please help

No one in this area that I’ve found will Dino tune with Tune ECU. It’s Power Commander or nothing.

 

[skydog1000]

What is your location in the USA. @HansO should be able to help you get this fixed. I am in Oklahoma if I am close to you I might be able to help you.

 

[warp9.9]

I have an 09 classic and I can’t get the decal popping to quit.

It started after I installed a set of Jardines. I had the ramair already but after I put these pipes on the popping started. I had installed a map from Hanso so I tried him and he made some tweaks here and there but with no affect. He thought it could be a leak so I welded the part that came off the headers and headed straight back. The one that crosses over underneath is clamped with large exhaust clamps. Yes, I used new crush gaskets. I’ve looked for leaks but found none. Last year I removed these and reinstalled my factory pipes and map and the popping went away. I loved the performance that I had so I put the Jardines back on.

My wife and have put many miles on this bike and love her but we’re getting tired of this noise. Who’s running with Jardines exhaust and do you have this issue? What map are you using? Please help

No one in this area that I’ve found will Dino tune with Tune ECU. It’s Power Commander or nothing.

Send me a email address I have one you can try

I have an 09 classic and I can’t get the decal popping to quit.

It started after I installed a set of Jardines. I had the ramair already but after I put these pipes on the popping started. I had installed a map from Hanso so I tried him and he made some tweaks here and there but with no affect. He thought it could be a leak so I welded the part that came off the headers and headed straight back. The one that crosses over underneath is clamped with large exhaust clamps. Yes, I used new crush gaskets. I’ve looked for leaks but found none. Last year I removed these and reinstalled my factory pipes and map and the popping went away. I loved the performance that I had so I put the Jardines back on.

My wife and have put many miles on this bike and love her but we’re getting tired of this noise. Who’s running with Jardines exhaust and do you have this issue? What map are you using? Please help

No one in this area that I’ve found will Dino tune with Tune ECU. It’s Power Commander or nothing.

when was the last time you checked your throttle bodies to see if they are balanced and have you done a ISCV test/reset ? Just to make sure everything the ecu is getting fed the right throttle position and throttle home? You might want to try it. And of course if you have never done it we can walk you thru it.


Oh and do you reset the adaptives when you flash the ecu then cycle the ignition switch say off for 5 seconds or so and then back on. which is a good time to put your head light fuse back in ?

 

[Msmitch459]

What is your location in the USA. @HansO should be able to help you get this fixed. I am in Oklahoma if I am close to you I might be able to help you.

Grand Rapids, Michigan

 

[Frosty Rider]

I'm running the Jardines with a Ram air, Power Commander V and Power Commander AutoTune and Hanso Map, I was getting this in the beginning and when I traced my exhaust back I found that I had to clap the pipe at the end of the header where the pipe leading to the left side of the bike connects. It was just slipped on, once I did this and I tightened up the rest of the connections that seemed to correct the problem. You said you welded it, is it possible there is a small leak in the weld somewhere, from what I understand the popping is usually caused by air leaking in somewhere down the line on the exhaust, also is it possible that there might be a leak where the header connects to the head?

 

[Msmitch459]

I'm running the Jardines with a Ram air, Power Commander V and Power Commander AutoTune and Hanso Map, I was getting this in the beginning and when I traced my exhaust back I found that I had to clap the pipe at the end of the header where the pipe leading to the left side of the bike connects. It was just slipped on, once I did this and I tightened up the rest of the connections that seemed to correct the problem. You said you welded it, is it possible there is a small leak in the weld somewhere, from what I understand the popping is usually caused by air leaking in somewhere down the line on the exhaust, also is it possible that there might be a leak where the header connects to the head?

I looked for leaks in the weld with a stick of incense. not the best way but it was what I could get quickly. No leak found at the weld. I have two exhaust clamps where the pipe crosses under the bike going over to the side with the bear claw. No leak found there too. The last time I pulled the exhaust I installed new crush rings and I used a ton of the high temp exhaust sealant crap. then I tested again. I found no leak before and none after.
I'll try the maps that I've been sent and let you all know.
Could it still be a leak? Maybe. I don't have a good way to test for this. I guess I could call a auto garage and see how they would do this test and maybe I could modify it to work on my ride.

 

[Nat67]

Send me a email address I have one you can try

when was the last time you checked your throttle bodies to see if they are balanced and have you done a ISCV test/reset ? Just to make sure everything the ecu is getting fed the right throttle position and throttle home? You might want to try it. And of course if you have never done it we can walk you thru it.


Oh and do you reset the adaptives when you flash the ecu then cycle the ignition switch say off for 5 seconds or so and then back on. which is a good time to put your head light fuse back in ?

Ten seconds if there is beer involved !
Telling bout pulling the headlight fuse warp , mine powers off the dash also when pulled !
Why would this be ?

 

[Msmitch459]

Send me a email address I have one you can try

when was the last time you checked your throttle bodies to see if they are balanced and have you done a ISCV test/reset ? Just to make sure everything the ecu is getting fed the right throttle position and throttle home? You might want to try it. And of course if you have never done it we can walk you thru it.


Oh and do you reset the adaptives when you flash the ecu then cycle the ignition switch say off for 5 seconds or so and then back on. which is a good time to put your head light fuse back in ?

Yes, I reset adaptations. Yes, I turn the bike off and back on again. And yes, when I'm uploading or downloading a map I pull the headlight relay. (I ran larger conductors right to the headlights through a relay and only use the wire for the headlights to activate the relay.)
No, I have not run a ISCV reset/test. How do I do that?

 

[Msmitch459]

At 820 RPMs Cyl 1 was 620hpa, Cyl 2 was 630hpa, Cyl 3 was 580hpa
At 2030 RPMs Cyl 1 was 500hpa, Cyl 2 was 530hpa, Cyl 3 was 480hpa
At 2240 RPMs Cyl 1 was 490hpa, Cyl 2 was 520hpa, Cyl 3 was 470hpa

What's your thoughts?

 

[warp9.9]

At 820 RPMs Cyl 1 was 620hpa, Cyl 2 was 630hpa, Cyl 3 was 580hpa
At 2030 RPMs Cyl 1 was 500hpa, Cyl 2 was 530hpa, Cyl 3 was 480hpa
At 2240 RPMs Cyl 1 was 490hpa, Cyl 2 was 520hpa, Cyl 3 was 470hpa

What's your thoughts?

needs to be tweaked in a bit all at idle should be within 10 of each out at the least. before you mess with the two adjustment screws lets make sure you have the right free play in the throttle cables. 2 -3 mm for the pull cable is checked at the throttle grip as per the manual the return free play is checked down on the throttle wheel just hook it with you finger nail like a guitar string throttle grip relaxed not holding it shut and see if you can tug her the free play this insures your throttle cables are not fighting each other and most important they are not fighting the idle stepper motor ( kind of like flexing as the stepper motor tries to achieve idle) once that is clear you adjust the two screws between each throttle bodies. first screw adjust #2 second #3 each time you make a adjustment you want to blip the throttle and let her settle down and then read the vacuum numbers. Not sure if this is what your asking in your PM as this is the first place I looked. will check though