Engine warning light

Well. I truly appreciate the advice given. This Oil light flickering was giving me fits. I struggled with the idea that this TR3T, a 2015 with hardly any miles could have a lubrication problem. The advice was pretty clear Bad connection to the sensor. Where the hell that was, again help. After filleting the bike I find it where I was told to look. Simple. Along comes the help. Get the screw out, replace it with a Allen head cap screw. Look at the sensor. Reuse it if it looked good. Well my fellow Rocket Captains, I turned the key on, and the light is on. Hit the starter and the engine fired up.... LIGHT GOES OUT! Fantastic. I wouldn’t have got it without your help.
 

Attachments

  • FB255B59-4469-497D-BA80-A50273E43979.jpeg
    FB255B59-4469-497D-BA80-A50273E43979.jpeg
    140.5 KB · Views: 19
R u saying that u did not replace the oil sending unit?
The only way a lose connector would cause a flickering is with the ignition on motor not running.
With running u could take the connector off and it would not turn on the light.
 
R u saying that u did not replace the oil sending unit?
The only way a lose connector would cause a flickering is with the ignition on motor not running.
With running u could take the connector off and it would not turn on the light.
I put the sensor back in the bike. I’ve changed the original screw to the Allen head in the picture. I put the tank down, and the gauges are setting on the tank. The gauge assembly is setting on a towel, to insure no scratches. I ran the engine at idle for 3 or 4 minutes. Then I increased the rpm.s and ran for a few more minutes. The light stayed off. The light came on when I turned the key on Along with the abs light and maybe a few others. Once the engine was running the Christmas tree went out. The yellow abs light stayed on as it always does while your setting s. till. You lost me with using the same sensor. When I took the screw out on disassembly it was loose. I thought that was the reason for the light flickering.
 
I put the sensor back in the bike. I’ve changed the original screw to the Allen head in the picture. I put the tank down, and the gauges are setting on the tank. The gauge assembly is setting on a towel, to insure no scratches. I ran the engine at idle for 3 or 4 minutes. Then I increased the rpm.s and ran for a few more minutes. The light stayed off. The light came on when I turned the key on Along with the abs light and maybe a few others. Once the engine was running the Christmas tree went out. The yellow abs light stayed on as it always does while your setting s. till. You lost me with using the same sensor. When I took the screw out on disassembly it was loose. I thought that was the reason for the light flickering.
I believe if wire was loose it could make and break the circuit and cause the light to flicker. Ride if possible and check it out. Sender is a factory item, but can be ordered from several suppliers, I bought mine from my local Triumph dealer.
 
this is a simple circuit ground the wire and the light goes on. unground the wire and the light goes out.
if the motor is running the pressure ungrounds the circuit (opens)
so if u already have an open circuit and u wiggle the wire to gain an open circuit the light would still be off.
i had originally thought that the sensor was shorting inside to ground (chip said light flickering at 80 mph @ 3000rpm or something similar.)
just disturbing the sensor could possible have corrected the sensor.
i would suggest u do another check by revving the motor to 3000 rpm and see if the light flickers. that will tell u more than likely if u still have a problem.
if u want to c a good wiring diagram look up a dia. for a 6 speed automatic transmission that the ecu does all the grounding. and the ecu controls the pressure inside the trans. with a solenoid it grounds multiple times a second.
the saga continues.
 
Agree completely with @TURBO200R4. Also now that we know the orientation of the sending unit, (normally closed) the 4 points I made in post #47 are still true and haven't been completely checked out yet and I will reiterate, a loose screw won't turn the light on!!!!!

Enough comments from me on this post.... I'm done. Chip, you need to at least try some of the recommendations we are proposing. Simply removing the sending unit, changing the screw and reinstalling won't correct the problem. The only thing you did was move the wire around which could have been chaffed causing it to ground out at times and turn on the light. If so, moving it might have solved the problem until the wire contacts the frame again.... just saying. I think you solved a symptom but not the underlying problem.
 
Agree completely with @TURBO200R4. Also now that we know the orientation of the sending unit, (normally closed) the 4 points I made in post #47 are still true and haven't been completely checked out yet and I will reiterate, a loose screw won't turn the light on!!!!!

Enough comments from me on this post.... I'm done. Chip, you need to at least try some of the recommendations we are proposing. Simply removing the sending unit, changing the screw and reinstalling won't correct the problem. The only thing you did was move the wire around which could have been chaffed causing it to ground out at times and turn on the light. If so, moving it might have solved the problem until the wire contacts the frame again.... just saying. I think you solved a symptom but not the underlying problem.

thanks for speaking up
i know i get irritated when it seems like a simple problem and it just seems to go on and on like i am wasting my time
when i c a thread with problems i ask myself am i going to be able to help? or is it a waste of time.
we should all appreciate DeCosse's ability for taking the time tirelessly explaining the circuits in a way that we can understand. thank you.
 
Back
Top