Disabling an Alarm

Or doesn't @DEcosse keyless ignition attach there - or am I just confused (again :unsure: )

You might be (generally!) :roll: :D :p .......................... but not about that
Yes, it connects to the OEM Alarm connector for the interface signals and to the OEM Key-Switch connector for the Power-Switching
 
It's these whizzy triumphs that confuse me. Was "talking" with Eliptech in OZ yesterday - Daytona 675 rider. Their new shift-light is a remarkable beastie.
 
There is not option to 'turn it off' or prevent it from auto-re-arming - if you really want to have it never arm, then your best alternative is just to remove it.
There should not be any additional wire to the battery, that must be for something else.

You 'need' the PIN code only if you want to add new remotes or change the programmed options - however it is possible to enter a new one yourself

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OEM_Alarm_NewPin_quick.jpg


OEM_Alarm_States.jpg


OEM_Alarm_States.jpg


OEM_Alarm_Programming_1.jpg


OEM_Alarm_Programming_2.jpg

This is easier.....

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With all the information you guys have given me I could probably do the removal myself, and with the help of two local mechanic friends, one who rides a 270 HP Kawasaki H2. He's also a performance tuner for one of the Kawasaki road race teams.

I used to have the service check sheets for my 07 and can't recall where I got them. My Canadian buddy does all of the services on his bikes and just bought a Rocket. He bought an aftermarket set of valve shims for about $250 and will be doing a full service on his Rocket when he returns from Mesa, AZ in the spring. I also just ordered a factory shop manual which I have/had for all of my bikes.

One of the friends I mentioned above is an Aviation, Air Frame and Power plant mechanic who specializes in avionics and apparently found a tool to measure valve clearance that someone has fabricated. I've done shim under bucket on old Yamahas but have not had the top off of a Rocket.

Doing services does not look that complex except for the valves and diagnostics. The first three tools are a bit spendy.
 
I have found that tapering with the electronics is more often than not a hit and miss thing. When on a road trip I have a very thin cycle cover which hides the bike from a simple drive by checkup. I use a disk lock with an alarm. If you try to move the bike or even try to straighten out the front wheel it goes of. Some people say that they can be canceled easily but I believe just having one helps to discourage would be thieves. More work for them.
 
Well it finally happened. The flippin electronic piece of junk alarm left me stranded. I was in Olalla at Patti's Leather Loft about 7 miles from my home getting some patches sewed on my vest. I went to leave and the alarm wouldn't disable in order to start the bike. I thought it had, turned the key and off it went. I then couldn't shut it off with her 6 month old Australian Shepherd running around the bike and barking at it. I finally got the fob to work and shut the alarm off but then rearming within 45 seconds. I again tried with the fob to disable it for starting. Nope. My wife was home sick and I couldn't get in touch with a friend. Patti told me she'd give me a ride to the house to get the other key fob out of the safe. I got it started and bought new batteries the next day, thinking it odd that the battery had failed.

When I opened up the key fob I found that the battery retainer/connector had broken away from the circuit board. Great so now I have one key fob between me and getting stranded again.

I bought the connector from Seattle Triumph and was going to wait until spring to have it removed but I've got to get rid of this darn alarm asap. I'll go back over your helpful posts, lift the tank and try to find where it connects into the loom. I'm not a very good bike electrics guy so hopefully I won't make a mess of it and get myself in a real fix.
 
... lift the tank and try to find where it connects into the loom....

See this thread - Datatool alarm connector

There are actually two connectors - you can do it without even lifting the tank if you connect your bypass connector to the one under the seat.
And those connectors MAY be covered in heat-shrink, which you will have to remove to uncouple them

Here are the original install instructions which may help you with the removal process - http://www.triumphinstructions.com/ProdDocs/A9808066-US.pdf
 
See this thread - Datatool alarm connector

There are actually two connectors - you can do it without even lifting the tank if you connect your bypass connector to the one under the seat.
And those connectors MAY be covered in heat-shrink, which you will have to remove to uncouple them

Here are the original install instructions which may help you with the removal process - http://www.triumphinstructions.com/ProdDocs/A9808066-US.pdf

Thank you so much for these links. Finding out were the connector (s) were was the first challenge. One of our members, perhaps you, suggested earlier just leaving the alarm in place.
 
Well it finally happened. The flippin electronic piece of junk alarm left me stranded. I was in Olalla at Patti's Leather Loft about 7 miles from my home getting some patches sewed on my vest. I went to leave and the alarm wouldn't disable in order to start the bike. I thought it had, turned the key and off it went. I then couldn't shut it off with her 6 month old Australian Shepherd running around the bike and barking at it. I finally got the fob to work and shut the alarm off but then rearming within 45 seconds. I again tried with the fob to disable it for starting. Nope. My wife was home sick and I couldn't get in touch with a friend. Patti told me she'd give me a ride to the house to get the other key fob out of the safe. I got it started and bought new batteries the next day, thinking it odd that the battery had failed.

When I opened up the key fob I found that the battery retainer/connector had broken away from the circuit board. Great so now I have one key fob between me and getting stranded again.

I bought the connector from Seattle Triumph and was going to wait until spring to have it removed but I've got to get rid of this darn alarm asap. I'll go back over your helpful posts, lift the tank and try to find where it connects into the loom. I'm not a very good bike electrics guy so hopefully I won't make a mess of it and get myself in a real fix.

Sorry to here that, sounds exactly what happened but I was in a carpark at a hardware store, without my phone for some reason. Luckily a mate wandered in and helped out so i could get home.

When mine first started playing up I persevered with it too until the same point.

The hassle with removal is the backup battery and anti alarm tamper, just put on ear defenders and go for it, it was still running on the backup battery when I finally ripped that piece of junk out of my bike. Good luck
 
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