Once again thanks all, I'll be in the garage tonight lo9king at that clutch switch.
This forum is amazing and the people on it the best! Would probably not be riding a rocket now if it wasn't for the help I've had here :thumbsup:
 
I had an issue after I upgraded the starter to 1.4kw it would often just give me a chunk sound and nothing more and sometimes it would just start straight up. I discussed this with @DEcosse and he suggested to reinstate my old starter which I have done and seems to work just fine now - I also have a lithium battery
 
^ This one described by @Mittzy is due to the voltage interlock in the ECU for the starter relay;
Along with the clutch switch, the ECU also looks at the system voltage for the starter run enable.
When the starter first hits, it pulls even higher current to get it moving initially and the voltage sags by incredible amount.
Now that sag is a VERY SHORT duration (nothing you will even capture on your meter) but it's enough to have the starter interlock drop out the relay
The combination of the Higher Current Starter and the Lithium battery, & exacerbates the issue & seems to be a no-go
Although Lithiums have HUGE starting amps available, it seems like the initial sag is much greater than a Lead-Acid.
The signature of this one is that you will hear the starter actually begin to kick on with a loud clunk (as opposed to a small click) and then stop

If clutch switch, you probably won't even get a click of the relay

If solenoid (or battery!) you will hear the relay click, but not much more


The clutch switch or low battery voltage are definitely primary things to check.
 
But if nothing happens, not even the headlights come off, wouldn´t the relay be first to check? I mean, the relay switches from headlights to starter.
 
But if nothing happens, not even the headlights come off, wouldn´t the relay be first to check... .
Yes, it could be the relay, but the interlocks stop the relay from switching
Clutch Switch is most common issue if the relay is not switching.
 
Mine's starting to act like the clutch switch is funky too. On my 'zooks, you could just get the little replacement switch module for a few bucks. All I can find on the parts 'fiche is the whole switch set for $100+. Is there a way to replace just the switch?
 
Hi, if it's any help, I went through this loop earlier in the year. Tried loads and chsed it around for a few days. It turned out to be a dead cell in the battery. Lights were good, needles sweeping etc. Have you tried jump starting it?
 
It was, as most suggested, the clutch switch (paperclip test confirmed it).
Have bypassed it (soldered the two wires together) and she's firing up great.
Now, I don't think I've tried to start a bike up in gear for the last 15 years.......Let's see now I don't have a clutch switch
Thanks all for your input
 
Back
Top