Here some if you want to buildit yourself.
Racket
I drew it with corel draw and exported it to dxf.
laserteileonline.de produced it including threads, sinks and pulver coating for 140€
Its made of 8mm aluminium and fits on the original triumph-arms of their luggage rack.
If you are interested, i can send the needed files.
Holder
I bought thes frome amazon - they fit the a.m. rack - can be mounted on both sides - the hooks can be turned 180 degrees - so they can be used even when there are mounted on the lower side (helpful for the back ones - with the pelicase mounted they will not fit on the upper side).
They have a little ring which i rasp away for optical reasons. So they lay plain on the racket.
Case
I use the pelicase im2200 - the closures are far away enoough that the sissybar fits in between. Otherwise the case would have to be mounted with the closures to the back - then the case would be another 3-5cm backward (for opening).
The pelicase 1450 should fit also...
I removed the grip and rasp the outline of the sissybar in the middle to get it ahead as much as possible
I used these dampers for connecting the case to the racket:
KEDO - Gummidämpfer-Buchsen-Set (M6), 1 Stück (Bohrung d=13mm/Materialstärke t=2.5mm)
Lock
I use this 12V lock from ebay. They are available with/without feedback signal. When you want to build the lighting: you should use the one with the feedback signal (2. connector). Funny with my lock: the black cable goes to + / the red one to ground...
I mounted the lock on a thin plate (4mm) - if you use a thicker one, you will get into trouble with the counterpart in the lid.
The electronic is mounted within the 12V-Socket.
When you are not firm with soldering: you do not need any electronic besides a push button.
The lock should get 12V for a maximum of 3 seconds - if you dont push the button longer: everything is fine.
The electronic i used cuts the 12V after 2 seconds.
12V-socket
There are several housing available - i used where i can insert a little schematic for the lighting and the lock.
Locks complicated: but the electronic is not really needed - for the lock a push button is enough.
For the conncectors i use amp superseal.
Schematic for the lighting
I only have this note - if you have questions: ask
The switch in this drawing is within the lock (the second connector of it). At the left side is a rc-combination (150kOhm/10uF/2.2kOhm) which opens the the transistor (BC517) which can handle up to 500mA. So at the emitter of the Transistor can be several leds connected (the resistor in front of the leds depends on the leds - the maximum volatage over the resistor+led is about 12V).
Schematic for the lock
Again: this is not really needed - the only thing it is used for: the lock can only handle 12V for about 3 seconds - if you push the button only for a short time, everything is fine. This schematic only cuts of the 12V after 2 seconds.
The switch in this schematic is the one you see under the closure of the pictures
Power supply:
I connected a cable+fuse under the seat and put in the border of the seat + 2 amp superseal on both ends, that the seat can be taken away.
Connection:
I connected the ground directly to the battery and the 12v from the green cable under the seat:
There are 2 green cables - one of them comes from the accessory-relay.
Be sure to use the correct one - i think the other one is for abs
to choose the right one check the following:
1. Turn your rocket off -> check: cable should not have any voltage
2. Turn ignition on -> check: cable should have 12-14V
3. Turn ignition on + take out the accessory fuse -> check: cable should not have any voltage
4. Turn ignition+engine on, connect a mobile phone to the usb under the seat and check that its loading
5. Turn ignition+engine on while loading mobile phone -> cut the green cable -> check: mobile doesn't load anymore
For 1-4: you can pierce a needle in the cable - no need to cut it
Maybe a little bit paranoic - but i want to get sure