Cold Weather + Oil

..mine won't start in cold weather either..an 06..the Odyssey 625 didn't help either..I'm currently running an Interstate battery 310 CCA..$70..seems to do the job..I've resigned myself to the fact that when it gets to cold to start..riding season is over..sometimes I point my salamander/torpedo heater at the block from about 5 feet away for 5 or 10 minutes..that helps..I've been advised against running a lighter oil..
 
Mine started first press last winter after 3 weeks and no battery tender. It was -14 at the time so it can't be a fault with all of them. :confused:
 
..you're right..it seems to only affect certain ones..I was lucky enough to have gotten one..lol..

Mine started first press last winter after 3 weeks and no battery tender. It was -14 at the time so it can't be a fault with all of them. :confused:

It figures I would get one too:mad:

OK, another stupid question...

Where does the majority of the oil sit when the engine is not running (cold)? Is it in the oil pan (sump) or in the tank? My thinking is maybe an oil pan heater would be better than a coolant heater. As you can see, I am determined to lick this. As I have said before, my riding season is short enough without this making it worse.
 
Just heading in to colder weather here and have experienced the "no start" twice now.

Switched to a Shorai battery, what a waste of $ that was! Not a bit of difference:mad:

Has anybody tried running lighter oil in an R3? Something like you would do in a 4 wheeler or the likes.

Cheers

Jthree

I use Mobil 1 0w40
 
It figures I would get one too:mad:

OK, another stupid question...

Where does the majority of the oil sit when the engine is not running (cold)? Is it in the oil pan (sump) or in the tank? My thinking is maybe an oil pan heater would be better than a coolant heater. As you can see, I am determined to lick this. As I have said before, my riding season is short enough without this making it worse.
it is a dry sump system it is in the tank on the side basically there is very little oil in the block itself they run a dry sump like most racecars do as soon as it hits the bottom it's back to the tank"" the biggest difference I have found is make sure it is in neutral when you shut it down starts a whole lot easier
 
it is a dry sump system it is in the tank on the side basically there is very little oil in the block itself they run a dry sump like most racecars do as soon as it hits the bottom it's back to the tank"" the biggest difference I have found is make sure it is in neutral when you shut it down starts a whole lot easier

Don't mean to harp on but I suspect there are quite a few here who would benefit from a positive outcome to this.

Given the majority of the oil is in the tank, how about something like THIS

Combine this with an in-line coolant heater and all should be well.

Also, flhtpi mentions the use of 0W-40 Oil. Is there any valid reason not to do this?http://www.r3owners.net/members/flhtpi.html


As you can tell, I'm determined to resolve this one way or another;)
 
Back
Top