Cold Start Problem-2012 Roadster

Have you cleaned up or cleaned around the stepper motor, yet?

Yes, but I'm going to check that again. I squirted lube on the roller (which is where a problem occurs with the Tigers). Need to lift the boot on the stepper and clean that thoroughly.

Any idea if there is an air temperature sensor on these bikes? If so I wonder if that's off. I know the coolant temp sensor is working and seemed fine-need to check that again though. I know it showed warm temps and kicked on at 94c or so. But I can't say the temp readings when cold were necessarily accurate.
 
Yes, but I'm going to check that again. I squirted lube on the roller (which is where a problem occurs with the Tigers). Need to lift the boot on the stepper and clean that thoroughly.

Any idea if there is an air temperature sensor on these bikes? If so I wonder if that's off. I know the coolant temp sensor is working and seemed fine-need to check that again though. I know it showed warm temps and kicked on at 94c or so. But I can't say the temp readings when cold were necessarily accurate.
AIT is in the plastic ducting up front right next to wher the MAP sensor is mounted on the air box
 
AIT is in the plastic ducting up front right next to wher the MAP sensor is mounted on the air box

Thanks! Is there a readout for it with TuneECU? I don't recall seeing it, but need to spend more time with the software. Not being very familiar with it every time is a learning experience.
 
The IAT (Intake Ambient Temp) sensor is notoriously mounted in a location on older R3s where it's reading hot, "dirty" air causing false readings and bad adaptations through the ECU. Relocating it with a couple zip ties toward the front & top of the fuel rail or whatever that stuff behind the bearclaw is called (right above the stepper motor), where it will draw fresh, clean air is a good idea. I'm not sure if the factory ever addressed that on the later models?
 
The IAT (Intake Ambient Temp) sensor is notoriously mounted in a location on older R3s where it's reading hot, "dirty" air causing false readings and bad adaptations through the ECU. Relocating it with a couple zip ties toward the front & top of the fuel rail or whatever that stuff behind the bearclaw is called (right above the stepper motor), where it will draw fresh, clean air is a good idea. I'm not sure if the factory ever addressed that on the later models?

Interesting. I just came in from checking my IAT. My shop is at 56F (13C). IAT was reading 26-27C with the engine running and revved up to about 2k (to suck a good bit of cool air). Wonder if that has anything to do with it. I'm going to check fully cold first thing in the morning-coolant temp was about 40k (rode home about 3 hours ago).

Not sure if it's related-but fuel economy seems to be down as well (low 30s on an easy, 65mph 50 mile commute).
 
Last edited:
Well, no solution yet. Problem is getting worse-changed the plugs, checked all vacuum lines and verified balance on the TBs, all looked good. Bike has about 24k on it now.

So-cold start, won't start without holding the throttle part way open. When it does fire it feels like it runs on 2 cyls for maybe 15-20 seconds, then all is good. Though it does seem to be getting worse/taking longer to settle down.

Latest issue-if I have to stop at a long stop light (or 2-3 consecutive ones) the engine seems to "load up" and start stumbling at idle, and if left w/o opening the throttle will eventually stall. This obviously when warm, not just a cold start problem any more. At speed all is fine, though fuel economy is down. I'm starting to think injector problem loading a cylinder with fuel-either sticking or leaky o-ring. That would explain why it's hard to start after sitting, as well as possibly "flooding" a cylinder if it's leaking fuel with insufficient air.

Also have noted "paint can rattle" when cold, which goes away when warm. I've tried the "put it in high and bump the motor back and forth" routine several times, to no avail. Not sure if any of these are related. Stepper motor linkage cleaned and lubed, cleaned the intake air temp sensor, checked contacts on coils, most of the obvious stuff.

Think I'll give the dealer a crack at it.
 
IR, Check the little read bud (the actual sensor) at the tip of the IAT. If it's swiveling or moving around a bit, it is not going to work properly and should be replaced. Also disconnect the lead to the lower portion of the IAT body and check the contacts to ensure they are clean and making proper contact. Triumph only sells the whole assembly for a ludicrous amount of $$$, so if the sensor is loose, you can probably source that part of the assembly on eBay for about 30 bucks.
 
I had the same issue years ago, adjusted my TPS and it never occurred again.
 
Back
Top