Clutch cable adjustment

Jeff has a point there look at your arm and see if it is close to the alignment marks like in the picture above.
 
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After reading all this I looked at mine today.

It looks like the adjustment up by the clutch handle is turned all the way in, and as soon as I start moving the clutch lever; the arm on the engine starts moving.

That said, my friction point starts when the clutch lever is about 1/3 - 1/2 way out.

The clutch definitely isn't slipping any, either.

Next time I'm by the shop, I'll ask the owner about it, as he's been a Triumph dealer for a good while.
 
I also find this topic very interesting. I just went out and took a look at mine as well, only 512km so far on the bike.
I was also a little confused as to what was meant by free play. As soon as I touch the lever and start to disengage the clutch the actuator arm also starts to move.
When I pull back the ferrel on the lever end, as described by warp9.9 it pulls back about 3mm, then as I squeeze the lever, it takes up the slack before moving the clutch actuator arm.
No problems finding neutral. As for putting it into 1st from neutral sometimes I have to double clutch....if that makes sense. Never a problem while downshifting from second.
 
Your adjustment sounds fine. to clarify anyone who is confused when you move the clutch lever the clutch arm on the liftershaft does move also. the free play is between when the clutch arm starts to move and when it actually conntacts the lifter piece. Right before the lifter piece starts to pull the clutch pack open. Its this way so there is no tension on the lifter piece making it rub in the liftershaft. In the old days of manual clutches on car you would have free play also so the throw out bearing is not spinning all the time which would wear it out plus if there was to much pressure on it the pressure plate would not be full gripping the clutch disc. (we called it a dead man clutch in my time)
Hope this helps and does not further confuse anyone as sometimes I think better then I explain
 


as soon as i touch the lever on the bars the clutch lever on my engine starts to move this is ok
from that point there should be light resistance till the time you make contact with the clutch lifter on the inside of engine. (this is where you need two mm. clearance).
so as soon as i touch the lever on the bars the clutch lever on my engine starts to move, i pull the lever on the bars a little more and then the clutch actuator makes contact inside, i pull the clutch lever all the way in and the clutch disengages.
warp gives a good definition of free play on thread # 23
 
I believe the double clutching sometimes when going from neutral to first is normal.

I have a habit of pulling/releasing my clutch a few times every time I make a stop with mine in neutral.
 
Dawg68 said:
No problems finding neutral. As for putting it into 1st from neutral sometimes I have to double clutch....if that makes sense. Never a problem while downshifting from second.
Click to expand...

You should always "double clutch" going into 1st from neutral, even (actually especially) straight after starting - it should clunk into gear. If you don't you risk it jumping out of gear on acceleration.
 
Rick McC. said:
I believe the double clutching sometimes when going from neutral to first is normal.

I have a habit of pulling/releasing my clutch a few times every time I make a stop with mine in neutral.
Click to expand...


i use to put mine in neutral at long lights then the safety guy talked to us about riders being slammed from the back. now i leave mine in first so may be i would at least have a shot of getting out of some ones way.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
i use to put mine in neutral at long lights then the safety guy talked to us about riders being slammed from the back. now i leave mine in first so may be i would at least have a shot of getting out of some ones way.
Click to expand...

Yeah; we were taught that at MC rider's school, too.

When I put mine in neutral; there're several cars (stopped) both ahead and behind me.
 
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