Clutch cable adjustment

[warp9.9]

Well here are the actuator/spline pics...Warp...great instructions....found it easier to adjust actuator arm by just loosening bracket for adjustor-open end wrench works 10x faster if you loosen these two bolts..Looks like in the position where it was before I worked on it it(I marked it with a permanent marker below the actuator) the spline approximation dot is in the two oclock position and the actuator is hard to tell if approximated as it does not have a dot. HOWEVER....UNLIKE YOUR BIKE WARP...mine does not have an alignment dot so I went off the gap in the Actuator arm...


Any who...Here are the pics and my question for @Warp and @Pedro is should I pull the actuator and reposition it aligned on the spline and does it mean that the is there a universal optimal location for that dot on the spline when the bike is new-say 12 oclock? Warp yours looks to be at about 2 oclock as well..

One last thing I noticed was a faint clicking sound on the clutch cover during the first 1/3 of travel of the actuator arm as the cable pulls it upward....Is is better to adjust the free play above this cliclking tapping sound-or is that normal...Here are the pics....

Thinking clearly and have the concept down now...Just wondering should I realign and readjust the spline to the actuator arm...

Thanks.....Greg

Looks positioned good if you ask me. As for the clicking sound its probably the needle bearings on the lifter shaft two places Piss poor design in my opinion. Or they could have put a little more effort in it

and with the lifter shaft and OEM return spring Peter was referring to

the needle roller do not get much lubrication and do not rotate very much again a little better foresight would have helped

 

[xlr8tion]

Warp...Thanks!

Now I am really starting to understand....I released all the tension from the actuator arm and felt the upward movement with my fingers where it travels and then hits alot of resistance. I tensioned up the aactuator so that there I was at the resistance point at the actuator and 2mm at the collet and the bike does not creep but will not come out of 1st gear to neutral or any other gear running or stopped.

Can I adjust a few more mm up into that heavy zone as that is what I had to do last night to be able to hit neutral and shift geares....Right now with the actuator with noi free play at the actuator and 2 mm at the handle I can not get our of first gear.

Does this mean my clutch is worn...Prior to this my actuator was set at the no free play zone and the collets set at no play.

All I can do is adjust the actuator lever up but I thought Pedro said you can not load into this zone.

I will have to be about 3 to 4 mm up into that high pressure area where the resistance is to have the clutch operate...

What is that indicative of?


Thanks....Greg

 

[warp9.9]

My bet is worn lifter shaft burn like I posted above. Its a four hour job to change her out shorter once you have done a couple. I am suspecting some fiber wear but inspection and measurement would answer that.

 

[xlr8tion]

My bet is worn lifter shaft burn like I posted above. Its a four hour job to change her out shorter once you have done a couple. I am suspecting some fiber wear but inspection and measurement would answer that.

So the dude that sold me the bike knew this as I put less than a thousand miles on it and it I bought it with 18K miles from a Shady Red Neck...Those actuator adjustor nuts look like they have been adjusted many times...

I do not have the ability to do what you suggest and I am not paying Triumph to do it badly so my Rocket is dead. Welcome to South Carolina....

 

[warp9.9]

Ah it sounds to me like you have the ability to do this. What you need is to find a post of IDK and look in his signature he did a nice set of step by step instructions. It easy drain oil and radiator. pull radiator shrouds then radiator Unhook radiator fan plug before you pull it. pull the water pump and front cover and your there I know somewhere on this site and you tube there was a how to video that was spot on. and had the same clutch as you do. let me look !

Here you go a couple links part 1 and part 2 I can give you a couple short cuts to save time. basically you can leave the front wheel on heck if your good you can even leave the fender on just cove rit with a towel. but you can also pull the fender off while the front wheel is on the bike and the ground no need for any jack stands I leave the fende ron mine and the wheel along with the brakes screw the time pulling and replacing the when you can just watch what your doing and cover the fender with a good soft bath towel.

 

[xlr8tion]

Ah it sounds to me like you have the ability to do this. What you need is to find a post of IDK and look in his signature he did a nice set of step by step instructions. It easy drain oil and radiator. pull radiator shrouds then radiator Unhook radiator fan plug before you pull it. pull the water pump and front cover and your there I know somewhere on this site and you tube there was a how to video that was spot on. and had the same clutch as you do. let me look !

Here you go a couple links part 1 and part 2 I can give you a couple short cuts to save time. basically you can leave the front wheel on heck if your good you can even leave the fender on just cove rit with a towel. but you can also pull the fender off while the front wheel is on the bike and the ground no need for any jack stands I leave the fende ron mine and the wheel along with the brakes screw the time pulling and replacing the when you can just watch what your doing and cover the fender with a good soft bath towel.

I am in!

Too much love for this Beast to relinquish her to CL!

Whats the benefit of doing the clutch as well as I am there?

Cheers...Greg

PS...Does Herny's carry these?

 

[warp9.9]

I am in!

Too much love for this Beast to relinquish her to CL!

Whats the benefit of doing the clutch as well as I am there?

Cheers...Greg

PS...Does Herny's carry these?

Since your bike is stock you really do not need much of anything maybe some stronger springs especially if you going to switch to some oil that does not have the wet clutch additives. Other then that I would see what if anything is worn. I bet I can scrape together some or maybe even a full set of the fibers if needed. I have a sack of them I would have no problems ordering from Hermy's

since you have a silver motor it has the old style clutch lifter piece and pressure plate let me run down to the barn in the morning and see what I have left from the silver engine I have down there. I will see if it has any good components. My bikes have the newer style so I have no use for the stuff if its there.

 

[xlr8tion]

Since your bike is stock you really do not need much of anything maybe some stronger springs especially if you going to switch to some oil that does not have the wet clutch additives. Other then that I would see what if anything is worn. I bet I can scrape together some or maybe even a full set of the fibers if needed. I have a sack of them I would have no problems ordering from Hermy's

since you have a silver motor it has the old style clutch lifter piece and pressure plate let me run down to the barn in the morning and see what I have left from the silver engine I have down there. I will see if it has any good components. My bikes have the newer style so I have no use for the stuff if its there.

Thanks Scott!

Once I saw those two vids I am saying "lets get to packing"....Did Triumph come up with an improved lifter for that 07-it was mentioned the 08's were reinforced?
Since I am not qualified to identify worn or glazed i'd rather just replace the whole clutch and avery gasket, grommet and etc in the process.....I will even spring for a new cable.


LMK what you find out amigo and we will work something out!

Thanks for the lifeline! BTW does MTC make a plate pack-I can run their 10 fibers with Triumphs 9 steel?

Cheers...Greg

PS...I can run Castrol 10W 50 4T to keep it simple.

 

[cr0ft]

I'm surprised people are having to move the actuator arm at all.

I mean, the clutch cable tension can be adjusted both up by the lever and right above the actuator arm. Depending on where you put the two nuts that lock it in place there you can create more or less tension. If the adjustment options either up top or below won't do the job, the cable has to have stretched so much it needs to be replaced anyway, in my opinion. Moving the actuator isn't part of normal clutch cable adjustment, if you have to do that the cable logically speaking has to be too long or the clutch on the bike is in need of repair.

 

[warp9.9]

Croft, I got 20 bucks that says his problem is not a stretched cable!!
Another 20 that says once the inside is fixed, he will be able to use the original cable !!!
with 10-12 mm of cable sheath length adjustment built into the cable, coupled by the adjustment at the clutch lever I bet the cable will snap before it stretches anymore then that!!!!

Also I read thru the post and other then having him check alignment of the actuator arm to see if it was located correctly. I do not see where anyone told him to adjust it there. I must admit If from the picture he posted it it looked like the crank arm was in the wrong location verses the alignment mark on the lifter shaft spline I would have had him adjust it correctly before moving on. And while I had him adjust it I would have had him once again with his hands rock the actuator arm back and forward so he could see and feel how much and where the free play is.