Clutch cable adjustment

Yeah, an actual fault is the most likely, since the cable wouldn't just go off like that, I was just saying that either the cable is on its last legs and seriously fraying and stretched, or else there's something physically wrong with the clutch, but I could have been clearer I guess.
 
Croft, I got 20 bucks that says his problem is not a stretched cable!!
Another 20 that says once the inside is fixed, he will be able to use the original cable !!!
with 10-12 mm of cable sheath length adjustment built into the cable, coupled by the adjustment at the clutch lever I bet the cable will snap before it stretches anymore then that!!!!

Also I read thru the post and other then having him check alignment of the actuator arm to see if it was located correctly. I do not see where anyone told him to adjust it there. I must admit If from the picture he posted it it looked like the crank arm was in the wrong location verses the alignment mark on the lifter shaft spline I would have had him adjust it correctly before moving on. And while I had him adjust it I would have had him once again with his hands rock the actuator arm back and forward so he could see and feel how much and where the free play is.


This all manifested itself when the bike was changed to a HIGH REVVING RAMAIR BIKE. I never took it above 4k with the stock air box on and as soon as the RAMAIR went on..LOST TORQUE and power band shifted up so I am in the 4000 to 6000K range for just 50 miles of riding and BOOM she sticks in first gea.


WHAT WOULD HELP Immesnsely if you guys would help me populate a list of parts I need from any thing involved with the job...From the water pump gasket, Front engine cover gasket....MTC friction plates....Triumph steel plates....lifter shaft...bearing.....springs......

Just imagine you were doing a total tear down and rebuild yourself and LMK what I should order and I will do so....I only ask for your help so I will not omit anything....

I would like to get all these parts ordered asap as I would like to ride this bike. I got 2 days riding out of the last two months and summer is upon us.....

Thanks so much guys and I am owning this one..As if I would have left her stock...this would not have happened!

Cheers....Greg

PS..If it were a stretched cable...how would I know?
 
This all manifested itself when the bike was changed to a HIGH REVVING RAMAIR BIKE. I never took it above 4k with the stock air box on and as soon as the RAMAIR went on..LOST TORQUE and power band shifted up so I am in the 4000 to 6000K range for just 50 miles of riding and BOOM she sticks in first gea.


WHAT WOULD HELP Immesnsely if you guys would help me populate a list of parts I need from any thing involved with the job...From the water pump gasket, Front engine cover gasket....MTC friction plates....Triumph steel plates....lifter shaft...bearing.....springs......

Just imagine you were doing a total tear down and rebuild yourself and LMK what I should order and I will do so....I only ask for your help so I will not omit anything....

I would like to get all these parts ordered asap as I would like to ride this bike. I got 2 days riding out of the last two months and summer is upon us.....

Thanks so much guys and I am owning this one..As if I would have left her stock...this would not have happened!

Cheers....Greg

PS..If it were a stretched cable...how would I know?

I could really use some advice populating that parts list. Since the Radiator, water pump at front case of the engine have to come off there are gaskets and grommets I am sure I will forget. No sense reusing parts that wear. BTW...Can I use MTC friction plates with OEM steels...any help would be appreciated...got to get this ordered on Monday.Thanks...Greg
 
Lets see clutch cover gasket and possibly the water pump gasket. Yes you could use the MTC fibers and OEM Steels without the anti judder spring and seat. But I recommend opening her up and lets see what you need your fibers and steels might be fine. MTC make a set of springs that are 25% stronger I can send you a set along with OEM fibers if you need it The only thing I might not have is a full set of steels laying around I will have to get a count. Either way I still say open her up no sense spending money on stuff you might not need. You probably will need the lifter shaft but when it comes to lifter pieces I would wait and verify which pressure plate you have early verses late model. Most likely you have early but still viewing is the best. When you drain the radiator do not remove the lower hose from the radiator or the pump cover just back the bolts out a few turns the you will see two slots on each side of the bottom bolts you can just pry the cover open a little and let it drain in a pan. The pull the three bolts and you can take the radiator, hose and perfectly lined up cover of at once. Of course this is after draining the oil unplugging the fan (front right neck cover) the little hose from the thermostat housing to the right lower inside corner of the radiator get pulled at the radiator only as well as the Top Hose get removed from the top of the radiator only you can reach the hos clamp once the radiator shrouds are off and from the left upper side of the radiator with a long screw driver. The other hose can also stay on the water pump and attached to the steel pipe going into the engine it has a O-ring on it just take the one 8 mm bolt out of the clutch cover and remove the steel line and hose along with the water pump at once. You will have to pry a little to loosen up the O-ring on the steel pipe but she will come right out.
Ah UNION break :)
 
Warp...

The bike was made in June of 2006 not sure how it is a 2007-so that should tell you which lifter I have....I do have more money than time so I would prefer to just order up all the parts and considering the guy I bought it from rode it hard and I will be riding it high rpm..why not just change the whole clutch pack out and build her stronger than stock? With my RAMAIR and TORS DELETE setup I am in the 4 to 6K area of the power band half the time so she is working alot harder than a stpck Clutch.

How does a MTC fiber/OEM steels work without a anti judder spring and seat? I noticed EBC makes fibers? Any good?

I will post up a list of parts and is a bike made in June of 2006 a 2006 or 2007...Mine does say 2007 on the Title...
Thanks....

Greg
 
Warp...

The bike was made in June of 2006 not sure how it is a 2007-so that should tell you which lifter I have....I do have more money than time so I would prefer to just order up all the parts and considering the guy I bought it from rode it hard and I will be riding it high rpm..why not just change the whole clutch pack out and build her stronger than stock? With my RAMAIR and TORS DELETE setup I am in the 4 to 6K area of the power band half the time so she is working alot harder than a stpck Clutch.

How does a MTC fiber/OEM steels work without a anti judder spring and seat? I noticed EBC makes fibers? Any good?

I will post up a list of parts and is a bike made in June of 2006 a 2006 or 2007...Mine does say 2007 on the Title...
Thanks....

Greg
It does not really matter about the age its a classic tourer with a silver motor my bet old style lifter piece old style pressure plate old style lifter piece bearing. But hey lets say something tore up the pressure plate and you decided since they cost the same why not good idea except now you need a different bearing and lifter piece. Fibers and steels will be the same. In order to have the anti judder spring and seat Triumph uses one fiber with a larger ID to fit around it. your call less fiber or get rid of it and go with a full set of MTC but wait if your clutch is not releasing she must have a good set of fibers and steals or they are warped really really bad. I say either way its about the same time only you will not end up with extra parts you did not need or sending something back because its not what yours has.. I have a new set of stronger springs MTC if you want then no problem.

See what I am getting at is that guy who made the Videos has a 08 Classic with a black motor yet two years after Triumph changed the clutch it had a old style one it it. My guess ran out of parts but had the old style on the shelf lets get her out the door Mates. Not that its bad but if he had ordered the stuff he would have been sending it back. One of the things I likes about And at NCY was with the actual VIN number he was able to chase down the parts not all dealers can or take the time to do it. Plus you could have her apart before the Dealer or any other parts supplier is open on Monday in which you will know what you need and can still spend to your hearts desire whether you need it or not Triumph usually is not open on Mondays.

I do not know anything about the EBC clutch stuff I imagine their OK. I myself am sold on MTC but on a low HP motor like your strong springs and OEM fibers are just as good. I am using OEM fibers on my 243 hp 07 with no problems.
 
It does not really matter about the age its a classic tourer with a silver motor my bet old style lifter piece old style pressure plate old style lifter piece bearing. But hey lets say something tore up the pressure plate and you decided since they cost the same why not good idea except now you need a different bearing and lifter piece. Fibers and steels will be the same. In order to have the anti judder spring and seat Triumph uses one fiber with a larger ID to fit around it. your call less fiber or get rid of it and go with a full set of MTC but wait if your clutch is not releasing she must have a good set of fibers and steals or they are warped really really bad. I say either way its about the same time only you will not end up with extra parts you did not need or sending something back because its not what yours has.. I have a new set of stronger springs MTC if you want then no problem.

See what I am getting at is that guy who made the Videos has a 08 Classic with a black motor yet two years after Triumph changed the clutch it had a old style one it it. My guess ran out of parts but had the old style on the shelf lets get her out the door Mates. Not that its bad but if he had ordered the stuff he would have been sending it back. One of the things I likes about And at NCY was with the actual VIN number he was able to chase down the parts not all dealers can or take the time to do it. Plus you could have her apart before the Dealer or any other parts supplier is open on Monday in which you will know what you need and can still spend to your hearts desire whether you need it or not Triumph usually is not open on Mondays.

I do not know anything about the EBC clutch stuff I imagine their OK. I myself am sold on MTC but on a low HP motor like your strong springs and OEM fibers are just as good. I am using OEM fibers on my 243 hp 07 with no problems.


Yes I saw your Bike on MTC's site....Did not want to rip it apart Scott as I may be able to con my mechanic to get involved with this which would entail riding the bike a mile over there or one of my other MC bros that have 5x the tools I have...

I rather order too many parts than too few and have them around. So I am trying to accumulate EVERYTHING I would need( I do not see how I would need a pressure plate)..Maybe the cover the actuator arm attaches to if I cannot get the lifer rod and spring out.

So I am trying to populate a list of what I need and do not want to rip my bike apart this weekend as my home is for sale and this project has to be done "hit and run"...

If I order too many parts...I return them or send them to you Scott as you are the Mentor of us young apprentices!

Your method does make practical sense...But it is likely I will have found a fellow MC mechanic that we can do this at his garage with an epoxy coated floor and outside of the near daily home showings that are going on here.

That is why is is not economically wise what I want to do in ordering all the parts up front but I cannot have my bike ripped apart while I wait for parts then realize I need another part and have it apart for a month. IF my Triumph dealer was not so unreliable I would just pay him.

So what are the odds my pressure plate is shot? Or more likely the lifter shaft and needle bearings? Can the needle bearings be pressed out of the cap or do you just replace the whole cover.....

I have no problem spending the money....Just need to know what to buy to build it bullet proof.

Thanks...Greg
 
@xlr8tion ,Greg can you give me the engine number on your bike? It is on the right rear where the header rounds down to the O2 sensor. This is not the vin number just the engine serial number or at least the part numbers seem to depend on.
below is a picture showing you were it is

engine number.jpg
 
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