kmrmike
Supercharged
I would suspect you have other clutch issues then. How many miles on the clutch, hard miles, etc?
Clutch cable adjustment
- Thread starter ricochet
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I would suspect you have other clutch issues then. How many miles on the clutch, hard miles, etc?
ricochet
Rocket Captain
Its a new bike. Only 500kms on it
ROCKETHEAD
Top Fuel
Mine is very similar... Was like that since I picked it up...
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Ok guys just so everyone is clear the free play is so there is a gap between the lifter piece and liftershaft. otherwise the lifter piece would be rubbing the lifter shaft when not in use this wears the liftershaft and lifter piece out more so on the lifter shaft. When using the clutch your free play is gone when the lifter shaft is pulling the lifter piece forward just before the clutch releases totally. no free play will also take spring pressure off the clutch fibers which will allow them to slip a little especially when you thrashing her. you might not notice this little slippage until the fibers wear and your adjusting this again. slippage can also heat things up a bit especially the steels which will warp and make the clutch grab even when you pull on the cable. If the clutch is grabbing its hard to get it in first gear, its hard to find neutral, and its hard to back the beast up when your engine is running and you pull the clutch in because its trying to move the tranny and bike forward. I cant tell you how many new Rockets I have check on the show room floor that the clutch is not adjusted right.
Also cables do stretch probably more so when they are new then when they are broke in. With the new 2 mm spacer in the system right behind the wavey washer on the lifter piece there is less room for wearing without slipping so it is critical to make sure your clutch adjustment is right and maintained. Never adjust it while your riding down the road no matter how good you think you are!!!!
Also cables do stretch probably more so when they are new then when they are broke in. With the new 2 mm spacer in the system right behind the wavey washer on the lifter piece there is less room for wearing without slipping so it is critical to make sure your clutch adjustment is right and maintained. Never adjust it while your riding down the road no matter how good you think you are!!!!
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Tripps
Retired superhero
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I got mine back from the dealer once with no play, with loud pipes I heard it right away at higher rpms, but you might not notice it with stock pipes. Especially with no tach on the Touring, but there was no mistaking the sound of it revving faster than you were accelerating. Mine is good now, but 26,000 miles and the RAA trip coming up, I ordered a new one today.
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
what we have hear is a failure to communicate.
MY definition of free play is (from the time you touch the clutch lever on the handle bars to the time it touches the lifter that starts to disengage the clutches on the inside the engine). if you take out all free play the part that press on the lifter then it will take out the lifter and washers.
if you don't have at least 1 mm like in pic 2 your asking for trouble.
go for 2mm is the best.
i may be not understanding you but i hope this helps.
MY definition of free play is (from the time you touch the clutch lever on the handle bars to the time it touches the lifter that starts to disengage the clutches on the inside the engine). if you take out all free play the part that press on the lifter then it will take out the lifter and washers.
if you don't have at least 1 mm like in pic 2 your asking for trouble.
go for 2mm is the best.
i may be not understanding you but i hope this helps.
ROCKETHEAD
Top Fuel
Ok so you have no free play even after the bugger is backed in all the way... Then what?
kmrmike
Supercharged
Are you using both adjustments; you have the knurled adjustment at the clutch lever and another adjustment where the cable comes out of the clutch housing.
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
If its the adjustment at the clutch lever is all the way in and you have no free play. I would suspect the cable sheath is to long. this is adjusted down but the clutch housing as Ian stated.
like in the picture below. note the external return spring is my own design not Triumph's but you can see the cable sheath has threads on it and nuts on both sides of the sheath mount bracket.
I must admit I have not heard of to many people having to mess with this adjustment much but then I cannot tell you if the bike has the cable mounted here when it comes in the crate or not. you can also check to see if you have any free play at the crank arm with you hands. as all you are looking for it soem movement before the liftershaft contacts the back of the lifter piece. There is a OEM return spring inside the clutch cover to keep it off the lifter piece when not in use. This is why some people hear a littlerattle every now and then on the left side as its the lifter piece especially the older style lifter pieces which had a smaller head on it. Myself I did not like the internal return spring and got rid of it 40,000 miles ago.
like in the picture below. note the external return spring is my own design not Triumph's but you can see the cable sheath has threads on it and nuts on both sides of the sheath mount bracket.
I must admit I have not heard of to many people having to mess with this adjustment much but then I cannot tell you if the bike has the cable mounted here when it comes in the crate or not. you can also check to see if you have any free play at the crank arm with you hands. as all you are looking for it soem movement before the liftershaft contacts the back of the lifter piece. There is a OEM return spring inside the clutch cover to keep it off the lifter piece when not in use. This is why some people hear a littlerattle every now and then on the left side as its the lifter piece especially the older style lifter pieces which had a smaller head on it. Myself I did not like the internal return spring and got rid of it 40,000 miles ago.
Jeff Cameron
Supercharged
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If the arm has been installed incorrectly on the splined shaft you can run out of cable adjustment range.
