Calling All Electrical Gurus...Saddlebag Light Wiring Help

TXtriple

SIC VIS PACEM PARA BELLUM
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Feb 16, 2018
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Central Texas Hill Country
Ok...I don't need ALL Electrical Gurus...just one with the right answer. :confused:

When adding saddlebags with lights (1157 bulbs), how would I wire them so they share turn signal and brake function?

In other words...three 1157s in a row. Center (stock taillight) would be running and brake. Outers (saddlebag lights) would be running and brake/turn.


Last time I tried this, I ended up adding a second bulb to the saddlebag reflector housing for a separate turn signal bulb. It worked, but I wasn't happy with it.

Thoughts?
 
Ok...I don't need ALL Electrical Gurus...just one with the right answer. :confused:

When adding saddlebags with lights (1157 bulbs), how would I wire them so they share turn signal and brake function?

In other words...three 1157s in a row. Center (stock taillight) would be running and brake. Outers (saddlebag lights) would be running and brake/turn.


Last time I tried this, I ended up adding a second bulb to the saddlebag reflector housing for a separate turn signal bulb. It worked, but I wasn't happy with it.

Thoughts?
Hang on a bit! Mr. Decosse will catch this soon! If not other Gurus will help you out!
 
Looking forward to you getting some good answers on this. It lets me guess how I would do it then learn how wrong I was. :thumbsdown:
 
A lot of trailers work like that. I can’t tell you how, but I’m sure you could google some trailer light schematics and get some good pics to guide you through.
 
Since this didn’t get much response, I’ll take a stab at it. I know nothing. Have done nothing. This is probably an ugly inefficient solution, but maybe it will draw out someone who knows the way…

I’m thinking in terms of relays. Center light is wired standard.

Side running lights power off the same wire to center running light, unless they’re not LEDs and will draw too much on that stock wire, which you’d have to deal with.

A relay is wired to the center brake wire that triggers both left/right brights.

I’m not sure if you intend to replace the stock turn signals or supplement them. Either way, I’m thinking wiring to (for instance) the left bright light in parallel (alongside the brake relay just mentioned), either with the original turn signal wire or a relay off it. So either the brake or that side’s signal will complete the circuit and trigger the light.

Is this way more complicated than needed? Inelegant? No idea. But it’s a jumping off point maybe.

As for trailer wiring diagrams, excellent idea, but they have to be for a 7-pin connector. 4-pin sends left/brake and right/brake through two wires, so the trailer doesn’t have to account for that. The tow vehicle manages it.
 
Well for a start - one acronym - LED's. Should be easy enough to find a light wit all 3 functions in one.

But if you must use a bulb (i.e the lights are already built in) - then the 5W filament should be a straightforward "in parallel" wiring job. The second 21W filament is more of an issue. You need to ensure the power feeds to each side are 100% independant - and there will be a number of ways to achieve what you want - but none will be that cheap and depending on your expertise with wiring could easily become a rats nest.

Q: If braking and indicating at the same time - Do you want the brake light to flash on/off or just stay on?.
 
Thanks TG...the problem I see is the brake would override the turn signal.

@ dealer and bar...I would remove the amber signals and send turn function to the lights in the bags.

If braking only, I want three brake lights. If turning (right for example) I would have left brake on, center brake on, right turn flashing.
The running lights are on their own circuit and aren't a problem.

I can use led bulbs, but I'm stuck with 1157 sockets unless I do major mods. I'm fine with solder and heat shrink if I had a direction to go.

Thanks guys.
 
See I knew I'd have a face slapping duh moment… the problem of having the blinker flash while braking. Immediately I thought, you probably want some kind of logic circuit to fix that. Definitely looks like that converter (or similar) is the answer. :thumbsup:
 
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