Brutus just died - electrical fault

Just shove a piece of fencing wire in the socket...that can carry a **** tonne of current and then hey presto.. no more melting fuses :thumbsup:
 
Just had a good look at Brutus. Pulled the fuse block and both terminal wires to fuse 11 pulled out of the fuse block and one wire looked like it got hot. Wheat I did next was treat the wire including terminals with a solder solution to clean the wires then soldered the wires with a real hot iron. I ended up putting the terminals into the SPARE fuse location and it worked a treat. I figured it has been working for 8 years just crimped so it should work even better soldered.
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A problem with those types of connectors is that they get soft when heated, cooled, heated, cooled, and the part that is supposed to hold the fuse blades tight, opens up slightly, and then arcing and melting etc. can start. You may still have a problem some where, something drawing more current than usual. :)
 
A problem with those types of connectors is that they get soft when heated, cooled, heated, cooled, and the part that is supposed to hold the fuse blades tight, opens up slightly, and then arcing and melting etc. can start. You may still have a problem some where, something drawing more current than usual. :)
Yeah I looked at the tightness of the holder and it was good but I made sure it was nice and tight too
 
Are they the 10amp ones? Would you use the full 30amp version to match the blown fuse?

the one i used to fix my friends car was a 20 amp. i have only seen them in the 20 and 30 amp and in the older large blade fuse box. of coarse a little wiring and they fit the smaller fuse box. the 30 amp is made for larger wiring but as a temporary tool i suppose u could use them on smaller wires. these will only work on a fuse that blows regularly.
every once and a while i go to the wrecking yard of friends that i help out so i usually pick up a bag of goodies anything i might be able to use.
 
Question is--why did the fuse melt?????????

Our resident electrical guru can provide a substantially more literate answer, but IRCC fuses can actually fail to protect the circuit they are designed to if a load is at or near the rating of the fuse for an extended time as the fuse will melt before it blows. We used to use fusible links (essentially wire that would burn up under a designated load) back in the hotrod days to ensure that the electrical component was doubly protected. My dream bike will have a device similar to a PDM60 that controls ALL of the circuits on the bike to get away from the 100 year old technology of fuses.

The bigger question is why was there sufficient load to put that much heat into that fuse?
 
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