Autotune Unresolved Issue

[warp9.9]

What does commit the trims mean and how does it affect the operation of the PCV & A/T.

Also how can I tell if the A/T is actually working.

Commit trims on the PCV should be like the tune boy. If your using auto tune it ha smade some trim changes/reccomendation verses the programed A/F ratio. if you commit them it will move them to the PCV main map. Just like tune boy if you commit the trims. it will commit all the changes you made on the trim tab to the main map and zero out the trim tab area. Hope this helps and does not confuse you.

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Yeah my does that too but from what I have been told it may have to be tolerate as being a a rocket Quirk I. Believe might be something with the overlap on the cam timing but why it only does under certain conditions is a mystery to me

Mine used to do that in the early days. Then I figured out it really prefers 89 octane. No more worries !

 

[Georgia Boy]

I would try changing the F/L table switching to 3 not 0 I believe you still need the L table for idle reasons which is something I had discussed with Wayne Tripp sometime ago before I fitted the PCV + AT as I was having a rough spot issue
Also I would not bother aceppting the trims, I cleared my fuel table except for the zero throttle 20's (which stop snatchyness comming of a closed throttle) and run without accepting the trims as in my case I go from dragging a 450/500kg (990/1,100lb) camper thousands of km's to just running around here on the coast and the occasional trip up in to higher alittude to Canberra so my load changes drastically and by not accepting the trims the PCV + AT can make great adjustments all the time and bike runs great.
So in short if you clear the trims you acepted and dont bvother acepting them again all wil be fine.
Hans

0 in an AFR table field just means the AT won't adjust the rpm/throttle position.

the reason you will see greater numbers at lower rpms is because how the ecm works. the ecm uses f & L tables. the f tables look at rpm/throttle position. the L tables use rpm/air pressure. Then you have the f-L switch table that controls when the ecm swaps between the two tables depending on rpm/throttle position.

now the f tables work like the pcv, but since the L tables use air pressure, it changes the fuel on a variable that the pcv isn't tracking and is always changing.

you can bypass this by adjusting the f-L switch table and setting all to 0. then this will have the ecm & pcv/at using the same measurements all the time by only using the f tables in the ecm. DISCLAIMER: I m not saying this is the right or best way to do things. try at your own risk!

NOTE: on the pcv/at afr table, set the 0 throttle position 500-1500rpm to 0. otherwise the bikes idle will surge all the time. you can monitor the afr at idle with the power commander software and adjust the fuel as needed.

Gents, I had some time today and decided to try the f-l switch table adjustments. I tried putting in all 3s, then re-uploaded the map, reset adaptions, and then cleared my trims on Hans' map. I then took her out for a test ride. She started out surging while applying throttle under 2000 RPM like she was running lean, but then the more I drove the smoother she became. I guess the AT was making the needed adjustments. I will drive her all next week to work and put in some more miles, then check the Trim Tables and see if the FL switch table trick worked. I will keep you all informed. Thanks again to everyone for the support, recommendations, and sharing.
Cheers,
Bobby

 

[Georgia Boy]

What does commit the trims mean and how does it affect the operation of the PCV & A/T.

Also how can I tell if the A/T is actually working.

Commit trims on the PCV should be like the tune boy. If your using auto tune it ha smade some trim changes/reccomendation verses the programed A/F ratio. if you commit them it will move them to the PCV main map. Just like tune boy if you commit the trims. it will commit all the changes you made on the trim tab to the main map and zero out the trim tab area. Hope this helps and does not confuse you.

+1 to Warp

Motolink,
AT is supposed to be used to customize a fuel map based on your AFR settings. After you have driven some miles, and you plug into your PCV module with your PC software, you can will see your three tables appear on the left of the screen: AFR table, Trim Table, and Fuel Table. If you click on the AFR Trim Table, you should see some numbers in the table. Some may be positive (AT is adding fuel to match your AFR for that RPM/Throttle Position, while others may be negative (AT is subtracting fuel to match your AFR). If you are satisfied with your Trims, then you need to go under one of the drop down menus up top of the page (dont remember which one right now), and you will see AT trims. It will ask you if you want to accept all of the trims. Once you click yes, the Trim Table will become 0s and all of your trim settings will have become part of your fuel table. You then should save the map, and then send the map to your bike (very important step).

The more you drive and accept your trims, theoretically, the lower the numbers you should see in your trim tables; until your trims are less than 5 in each cell.

To answer your last question, if you do not see Trim values after 50 or miles of driving, something is wrong, and your AT is not working.

You may have known all of the above....if not, hopefully it was helpful. There are many more people on this site which have more experience with it than me.

Cheers,
Bobby

 

[HansO]

Gents, I had some time today and decided to try the f-l switch table adjustments. I tried putting in all 3s, then re-uploaded the map, reset adaptions, and then cleared my trims on Hans' map. I then took her out for a test ride. She started out surging while applying throttle under 2000 RPM like she was running lean, but then the more I drove the smoother she became. I guess the AT was making the needed adjustments. I will drive her all next week to work and put in some more miles, then check the Trim Tables and see if the FL switch table trick worked. I will keep you all informed. Thanks again to everyone for the support, recommendations, and sharing.
Cheers,
Bobby

Sorry Bobby
Mate I probally should have been clearer when I spoke to Wayne Tipp about the F/L switch he was saying only change the following boxes which is t the last five boxes -
611 .. 970 .. 1358 .. 1910 .. 2521 .. 3513 .. 3775 .. 5188
13 .... 13 ..... 15 ...... 3 ........ 3 ....... 3 ....... 3 ....... 3
I had to put the dots in to keep the spacing

this is how you F/L switch should look like
Cheers
Hans

 

[Georgia Boy]

Sorry Bobby
Mate I probally should have been clearer when I spoke to Wayne Tipp about the F/L switch he was saying only change the following boxes which is t the last five boxes -
611 .. 970 .. 1358 .. 1910 .. 2521 .. 3513 .. 3775 .. 5188
13 .... 13 ..... 15 ...... 3 ........ 3 ....... 3 ....... 3 ....... 3
I had to put the dots in to keep the spacing

this is how you F/L switch should look like
Cheers
Hans

No worries Hans, I am just glad you caught my mistake.
Thanks for the clarification...I will change it this afternoon.

 

[Georgia Boy]

Hans,
I uploaded the map with the FL Switch map values as per your last post; reset the adaptations again, and took her for another spin. She is super smooth now; in fact, I believe she is smoother than she has ever been.

Hopefully this will correct my AT Trim problem. I will plug the computer in next weekend and see, and will give an update. If this doesn't fix the problem, then all I know to do is to drive without accepting the trims.

Either way....thanks Hans and Bagman for pointing me this way.

Cheers,
Bobby

 

[steelboss]

Maybe this is the place...

Hi Guys,
I just posted this to Warp.. I am actually quite mechanically inclined...just busy now and maybe impatient. I would appreciate any comments:

...I just got around to looking at my Tuneboy gear although I have had it since last year. About 4 months ago I rolled my R3T in the living room and took out the intakes and stock exhaust and air box. I have a Tuneboy with LC-1 and Jardines, K&N’s on the way.
The problem is that I run a factory in China and I am busy 6.8 days per week. Now spring is coming and I started to setup the program and I began reading all of that documentation. The more I read, the more amazed I became at the detail of the Tune-ology of Tuneboy engineers..awesome!
Now I am getting intimidated. I am just a back-yard lawnmower specialist and my bike is apart. I want to know how far (minimal please) I need to go just to recode the ECU and put this bike back together and go. I have no dyno around these parts and my bike guru can only read Chinese…I know he has a vacuum tester…
Is there a simple way to do this Tuneboy setup and get on the road with all that original Rocket power?

Thanks,
Tony

 

[Georgia Boy]

Gents,
I took the beast for a ride Saturday after accepting the trims on AT....BTW there were ALOT of them. For the first few miles she drove fine, and then she started losing power at constant throttle below 2000RPM range. When I got home and hooked her up to the computer, I found high values in some of the very same columns as I previously had them.
I am tapping out.....I will just do a HANSO, and not accept the trims. Thanks for all the help and input.

Bobby

 

[HansO]

Gents,
I took the beast for a ride Saturday after accepting the trims on AT....BTW there were ALOT of them. For the first few miles she drove fine, and then she started losing power at constant throttle below 2000RPM range. When I got home and hooked her up to the computer, I found high values in some of the very same columns as I previously had them.
I am tapping out.....I will just do a HANSO, and not accept the trims. Thanks for all the help and input.

Bobby

Useing TuneECU cable and software try going in to the F - L switch tab and change the "pos" line so it reads from left to right 13 13 15 3 3 3 3 3 this should also help sort things to make it smoother.
Also as I have mentioned elsewhere I am trialing a new revised AFR table map which so far feel good, So stay tuned I will post results as soon as I get a chance to do some more km's