Asking for help with Cam Cover Gasket replacement

Good afternoon all! My '15 R3R has about 16k miles, and the stupid cam cover gasket has started sweating like a bunch of us have experienced I've discovered after using the Search tool. So, likely over my head, but feeling brave, I decided to tackle it. I've got the tank safely off, I've already done the RamAir install last year, so none of that annoying airbox system is in the way, and I've removed the pair of coils and that power the rear 6 plugs and set that aside. I'm at the point where I have a few questions, and I'd love some advice:

1) I could get the front two cam cover bolts out with a standard 5mm allen key, but I have zero idea how to get that torqued back up properly without taking that whole smozzle of wiring and the front coil entirely out of the way, so I can get a proper socket extension and the torque wrench on it. Is that something you have to do when you're doing this job, or do you guys just tend to hand tighten up those front two with the allen key? I started to undo that front coil from it's bracket, but it looks impossible to get out of there without taking all that other wiring out of the way too...

2) I've got all the cover bolts out, and the spark plug towers. The actual spark plugs are still in the head though...is that why I'm having such a hard time getting the cam cover to release? I doubt it, but something feels wrong. I know you're not supposed to jam a flathead screwdriver in there and start twisting or you'll scar up the mating faces, but man, I've gently tapped it with a rubber mallet, and pulled as hard as I can with what little grip surfaces you can find...no go. Felt like I'm overlooking something, so I cooled down and came in to type this up.

3) As I had the RamAir kit done already, it looks like I don't need to take the throttle bodies off...is this strongly recommended to do the job right? Looked a little daunting, so I just hoped it'd be okay to leave them where they sit.

4) Lastly, this one will likely be a debate. In my searching of the forums, I saw a few people say that you attach the new gasket to the cover itself, using little dots of crazy glue, and I've also heard that it was easier to let gravity help, and just attach it to the head itself using the same glue trick. Thoughts?

Thanks all!

More experienced mechanics are definitely here. I would vacuum out the spark plug holes to add insurance that nothing is in there to fall in the motor. Then I would remove the spark plugs just in case they are holding the cover down some how. Then try the dead blow hammer again.

Plugs don't influence it, just did it yesterday with them in.

The way I do it, is remove the harness and hang out of the way by the battery box. This involves disconnecting the horn, gauges, fan, hand control wires, and a few sensor, plug ignition and the 2 main harness connectiosns.

The you have room to get in with a standard torque wrench.

I cheat and use a wide screw driver with a rag under the old gasket and push STRAIGHT UP, do not pry with it. Have done it this way 4 times without leaving any trace. Ideally a piece of wood or plastic and 1 tap with a mallet will be safer.

New gasket wise, I let it relax in the sun to flatten, then use a touch of RTV to hold it in place while fixing. It's not hard just make sure the skirt is outside the head when installed before torquing anything down.

Claviger said:

Plugs don't influence it, just did it yesterday with them in.



New gasket wise, I let it relax in the sun to flatten, then use a touch of RTV to hold it in place while fixing. It's not hard just make sure the skirt is outside the head when installed before torquing anything down.

Click to expand...

Seeing how this usually isn't something you do spur of the moment I will take my new gasket and lay it out flat and put a book on it for a few days, always flat and goes on like a champ. +1 to a few dabs of RTV to hold it in place.

I use this time to pull my plugs and inspect and clean them before going back together. Gives a good indication how the motor is running, unless you pull your motor down often enough that you don't go several years between looking at the plugs.


bob

@Claviger , based on that other thread you started about that unfortunate chain explosion, I was hoping you'd chime in. Sounds like you've been in and out of this beast more than once. I'll head back out in a while and give it another go. Thanks to the rest who've chimed in, and good luck on that timing chain repair, man!

Bob R said:

Seeing how this usually isn't something you do spur of the moment I will take my new gasket and lay it out flat and put a book on it for a few days, always flat and goes on like a champ. +1 to a few dabs of RTV to hold it in place.

I use this time to pull my plugs and inspect and clean them before going back together. Gives a good indication how the motor is running, unless you pull your motor down often enough that you don't go several years between looking at the plugs.


bob

Click to expand...

If only I should be so lucky to have that long between diving in haha.

Cam cover gaskets are not user friendly. I did a very detailed write up on this job. Under cam replacement i believe. First time i removed the cover was at 25,000 miles and did a valve clearance check. Removed everything. All three coils and throttle body. Second time i removed the cam cover was at 50,000 miles. Replaced cams with aftermarket and did the job the same way as the first time. Removed throttle body and all three coils. This allows for a clear shot at getting the job done right. Nether times had experience any leaks or binding of gasket. Presently riding at 56,000 miles with no leaks. Remove the spark plugs. might even think about replacing them at this time. The gasket itself i lay on top of the motor and then slid the cam cover in from the throttle body side, Only place i use any type of sealant is where the manual says to. the four half moon slots on short sides. Take your time and clean both the mating surface on the engine and the mating surface on the cam cover. Another plus on removing the throttle body is not only is it out of the way but it is also a good time to clean it up and lubricate. A good torque wrench is a must. Using the sequence in the manual i slowly and evenly tight the bolts with new seals down. Run the sequence about eight time around in incriminates of 2-3 NM. until i reach prescribed torque. This seems to help in keeping the gasket in place and prevents pinching of the gasket around the bolts. A bit over the top ?Maybe but i hate leaks. I also like doing a job right the first time with no screw ups. By the way that is on 2015 Rocket x bought new in Oct 2015. Never seen a shop

As Sonny mentions, TBs off does make it much easier.

TBs on, might be not the best idea your first time around.

Am i bit over the top at times when it comes to working on bikes.

Bob R said:

Seeing how this usually isn't something you do spur of the moment I will take my new gasket and lay it out flat and put a book on it for a few days, always flat and goes on like a champ. +1 to a few dabs of RTV to hold it in place.

I use this time to pull my plugs and inspect and clean them before going back together. Gives a good indication how the motor is running, unless you pull your motor down often enough that you don't go several years between looking at the plugs.


bob

Click to expand...

I thought I might have to pull and replace mine tell I discovered my leak was from a porous head weep.

Anyway, I bought a gasket and laid it out in the sun for day. I then sandwiched it even and flat between two pieces of cardboard. I taped around the edges of the cardboard and there it sits in the basement waiting for when I might need it. It arrives as a pretty tangled and unruly mess. Maybe I'll quit riding before I get to that 20k mile valve check and just avoid the whole PITA job all together. I have nothing more to offer.