advice needed on steering in low speed

Cables do get stretched to there limits - That's why I will be changing my cables the Classic cables as they are a couple of inches longer.

3 inches longer actually .. one of maybe two situations where every inch counts ... and don't bother asking about the other one :rolleyes:
 
3 inches longer actually .. one of maybe two situations where every inch counts ... and don't bother asking about the other one :rolleyes:
Don't have to. You are obviously talking about how the length of your wheel base affects how narrow of a turn you can make at full lock, right?:thumbsup: Because I think we are all impressed by the length of TC's wheelbase.:coffee:
 
first thing I would be checking your front tyre pressure, I found the Triumph recommended 36psi is to low for the Metz also that leads to the next thing the Metzler is a slow steering tyre, in other words it is crap. So the tyre pressure up to 40 - 42psi and soon as possible replace the front tyre with either a Avon Cobra or an Dunlop Elite 3, both come in standard sizes, if on the other hand you are also looking to lower t a bit the Michelin Commander II in a 140/75/17 will both lower the bike and sharpen the steering, just lowering the rear actually slows the steering down by increasing the rake
Very importantly thou what Richard (canberraR3) about the danger of lowering causing a potential disaster is Very True.
Triumph in their "Wisdom (not)" decided to lower the front of the peg rails on the Roadster's so even in their standard height as in the case of the Aussie guy Bruce Aussie when lent over to extreme angles scraped his rail and one day it dug in and spat him and his lovely wife and in the case of 1Olbul he was running a smaller front tyre and same thing happened so be Warned Lowering the Roadster will reduce your lean angles

HTH . . .
 

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So I went to a park n ride lot today and laid down some cones and drew some lines with my boy's chalks. after about 30 minutes of figure 8 and various practices I am feeling much more comfortable with the R3 now. I found that, even in low speed, I have to put my ass to work as well...rather just handle the bikes with my arms and shoulder. The exercise made me feel that I am now more 'together' with the r3, rather than controlling it, the bike is actually responsive enough that even in low speed, a little bit of input is all it needs.

thanks for all the advice, I have now cancelled the order of the 11.5mm progressive shock and ordered the rivco riser instead. By the time the custom corbin comes, this place will likely be covered in 2-3 feet of snow.
 
SMART decision!
11.5" is WAY too short and those cheap Progressive shocks suck more below the acceptable line than the 444s rule above it.
1) Look well forward toward the direction you are turning.
2) Use all three and balance between your throttle, clutch and rear brake to control a tight (at or near bar lock) turn.
This is how motor cops are trained.
 
Mounting and dismounting is similar to that bit about a supposed difference between men and women (totally inconsequential) that, when asked to examine their fingernails, is how we present our hands to look -- fingers out stretched and palm facing out, or fingers curled in and palm turned in. Trouble is, the difference disappears once you think about it. I find mounting the bike is similar. Once I think about it, I'm not sure how I do it, though I do have a bias toward the low, or kickstand side.
 
Most people I know mount from the left. Though I have seen a couple of people mount from the right.
Seems the left is lower and easier to get on from, plus it's the side we get in our cages from to drive. Would seem if anyone would be more inclined to get on from the right, it would be people who's cages have the steering wheels on the wrong side. :p
Yeah...depends on which side 'you dress' old chap. I've been attached to my nasties for 59 years and kinda think I'd better start looking after them...no one else does!
 
Mounting and dismounting is similar to that bit about a supposed difference between men and women (totally inconsequential) that, when asked to examine their fingernails, is how we present our hands to look -- fingers out stretched and palm facing out, or fingers curled in and palm turned in. Trouble is, the difference disappears once you think about it. I find mounting the bike is similar. Once I think about it, I'm not sure how I do it, though I do have a bias toward the low, or kickstand side.

I am the same I feel more comfortable taking left turns at low speed than right turns, maybe because we get used to leaning the bike over to the left to park it , and our left leg is used to picking the bike up off the side stand .in OZ (the land of roundabouts) we get plenty of practice in low speed right hand turns but left turn to exit always seems easier.
 
thanks for the great advice~! I was referring to really low speed (around 10 mph) when the countersteering has not kicked in yet. I think I just needed some more time to get used to the rocket. It's very very different than japanese bikes.
Just be strong with it brutha....
 
I am the same I feel more comfortable taking left turns at low speed than right turns, maybe because we get used to leaning the bike over to the left to park it , and our left leg is used to picking the bike up off the side stand .in OZ (the land of roundabouts) we get plenty of practice in low speed right hand turns but left turn to exit always seems easier.

Me thinks turning direction preference is a righty - lefty thingy.
I am left handed and when I was racing, I spent a lot of practice hours on the track getting better at all the left turns.
Less trail helps low-speed handling quite a bit and is one of the benefits of using a 140/75R17 front tire.
Look where you wish to go - not at the front wheel. Use your rear brake and clutch to help control the tight slow-speed turns.
 
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