2015 Roadster map with TORs.

So while we're talking tunes I have installed Paul Bryant crossover, TORS, and Ramair. Loaded tune 20355 off resources. After reading this I am a little confused about the O2 sensor. Would this be disabled? I really didn't check that and if it is disabled do I remove it? Also in this tune it says you must adjust the TPS and ISCV. Well I rode it before doing that and I think it's running GREAT. So should I adjust them or walk away. I am the best at opening a can of worms so I try to leave well enough alone.
Hello.

Did the RamAir kit come with a TP (Twist-in Plug for the O2)? If so you would install the plug, wrap the sensor and zip tie it someplace safe and disable O2 sensing in the ECU.
Doing the TPS CHECK and ISCV CHECK and Throttle Body alignment CHECK and RESET and the 12 minute tune are all recommended after doing mods. As long as you have the cable hooked up you may as well do the checks and potential adjustments. Your call.

cornholio.jpg
 
Hello.

Did the RamAir kit come with a TP (Twist-in Plug for the O2)? If so you would install the plug, wrap the sensor and zip tie it someplace safe and disable O2 sensing in the ECU.
Doing the TPS CHECK and ISCV CHECK and Throttle Body alignment CHECK and RESET and the 12 minute tune are all recommended after doing mods. As long as you have the cable hooked up you may as well do the checks and potential adjustments. Your call.

cornholio.jpg
Since the Ramair is really nothing more than a relocated air filter it doesn't come with anything exhaust wise.
 
Since the Ramair is really nothing more than a relocated air filter it doesn't come with anything exhaust wise.
Ok, I use K&N's.
My Jardines on my old gal has no bung hole so i wrapped the sensor and uncheck the box in my tunes.
My side chick has stock header with custom DP Outlaw-like shortys but still has the sensor installed as I got sidetracked on other projects and travelling.

I need to start my laptop to see if I unchecked O2 sensor on that tune. If you're not using it it is recommended to buy the plug and pull the sensor to keep it clean.
 
Ok, I use K&N's.
My Jardines on my old gal has no bung hole so i wrapped the sensor and uncheck the box in my tunes.
My side chick has stock header with custom DP Outlaw-like shortys but still has the sensor installed as I got sidetracked on other projects and travelling.

I need to start my laptop to see if I unchecked O2 sensor on that tune. If you're not using it it is recommended to buy the plug and pull the sensor to keep it clean.
You might want to check because I have Jardines on my other Rocket and yes it has a bung hole and came with plug to use. The PC on it came with a bypass to trick the ECU into thinking it still has an 02 sensor in the hole.
 
So if you guys only have TORs on 2015 Rocket III's why not use this map in the Resources section above?

OEM_TOR_Tune_20776 2018-06-01 "TOR exhaust file for late model Roadsters 2014+ "

Or, if you add Ram Air or K&N's (not sure why you wouldn't because just doing the TORs is like putting a larger barrel on a gun and using the same bullets) try this one:


R3R_Slip_grafted_onto_20773_base.hex by Sir Claviger located in the TuneECU Custom Map page.
So here is a quick update:
I had installed ram air couple of weeks back on stock pipes....did 12 minutes tune...loved the music it played....but I used to smell gas....so is that what running rich means?

got the TORs installed yesterday, let it dry overnight as it was giving some fumes....loaded the map suggested up in the above post:
R3r-slip one....took it for a test ride for 30 minutes.....the sound is loader than stock for sure but not as bad as annoying, did not feel any popping even at 3-4K rpm at 60-70mph....did not smell gas at all....the engine does sound like running very dry and a bit loud but then I may be confusing the little loudness due to TORs?????...so how do I tell is it running lean or not....did I do it right?
Also, the forum also suggest to install 20776 map but the above mentions map say it’s 20773....is it a lot different????
 
So here is a quick update:
I had installed ram air couple of weeks back on stock pipes....did 12 minutes tune...loved the music it played....but I used to smell gas....so is that what running rich means?

got the TORs installed yesterday, let it dry overnight as it was giving some fumes....loaded the map suggested up in the above post:
R3r-slip one....took it for a test ride for 30 minutes.....the sound is loader than stock for sure but not as bad as annoying, did not feel any popping even at 3-4K rpm at 60-70mph....did not smell gas at all....the engine does sound like running very dry and a bit loud but then I may be confusing the little loudness due to TORs?????...so how do I tell is it running lean or not....did I do it right?
Also, the forum also suggest to install 20776 map but the above mentions map say it’s 20773....is it a lot different????
Also what does reseting the adaptation mean? I did not do that before 12 minute tune??? Do I Need to follow different process? 12-minutes tune means....start bike...wait for first fan turn on....run for 12 minutes after that....I ran it little over than 12 minutes I think I let the bike run for 25minutes total and then took it straight for test ride without turning it off???!
 
I see this map has no O2 sensor checked …...Is it ok for ramir + TOrs on 2015 r3r setup?
Ok so being on the path of self soothing.....:)…..I uploaded this map, the bike is running much cooler and unrestricted on freeways
So if you guys only have TORs on 2015 Rocket III's why not use this map in the Resources section above?

OEM_TOR_Tune_20776 2018-06-01 "TOR exhaust file for late model Roadsters 2014+ "

Or, if you add Ram Air or K&N's (not sure why you wouldn't because just doing the TORs is like putting a larger barrel on a gun and using the same bullets) try this one:


R3R_Slip_grafted_onto_20773_base.hex by Sir Claviger located in the TuneECU Custom Map page.

I tried both tunes: first the Claviger one....found intro be very smooth, little hotter than stock 20773.... but felt engine was louder and running dry....I have ram air and tors by the way in 2015 r3r! And PCV at stock map, non zero values.

Then, I uploaded Hanso’s one with unrestricted settings, but enabled the O2 check box....And made PCV to all zero values.... took it de test ride, the bike was very smooth on high speeds, ran way cooler and very fast forward....but at slow speeds, it gave me a jerk every time I released the clutch....was not very pleasant on slow speeds....
On both maps, never heard any popping.....so what could be a middle ground here??????
 
Ok so being on the path of self soothing.....:)…..I uploaded this map, the bike is running much cooler and unrestricted on freeways


I tried both tunes: first the Claviger one....found intro be very smooth, little hotter than stock 20773.... but felt engine was louder and running dry....I have ram air and tors by the way in 2015 r3r! And PCV at stock map, non zero values.

Then, I uploaded Hanso’s one with unrestricted settings, but enabled the O2 check box....And made PCV to all zero values.... took it de test ride, the bike was very smooth on high speeds, ran way cooler and very fast forward....but at slow speeds, it gave me a jerk every time I released the clutch....was not very pleasant on slow speeds....
On both maps, never heard any popping.....so what could be a middle ground here??????

Hmm, I'm no expert, I just share my experience and try to help folks move forward until the calvary shows up. ;^)

1. These TuneECU maps are not meant to be used with PCV. You indicated it was connected and had a map loaded with Clavigers tune. Maybe disconnect PCV and try his again.
2. Are you doing the ISCV reset and 12 minute tune (12 minutes AFTER the fan first kicks on)? It will take the ECU awhile to get acquainted with a new tune.
3. O2 sensor needs to be OFF or it will be fighting the maps settings at lower speeds - double click and remove checkmark or right click and select disable before downloading.

As per Claviger wrt O2 sensor removal and bung hole plug:
First off, why it's best to remove it: They are a sensitive device, the temperature is controlled to be in a narrow window for max life span, moisture is the devil for O2 sensors and it's disabled in software and left in the bike moisture can kill it.

Second, as to why it's better turned off: Triumph tunes only use it at low RPM low opening, and they shoot for a 14.3ish AFR, nothing wrong with that to be honest. Read on how narrow and sensors work, they don't measure the afr, they count how many " too rich" or "too lean" incidents it has over a time span and add or remove fuel to compensate. The result is an engine that's never right, instead it swings back and forth across the target lean to rich, but never right.

The range of the swing depends upon how fast the ECU updates the sensor value and does the man. The rocket ECU does both sampling and math pretty slowly, the result is a chunk chunk chunk idle, when you turn it off and set the AFR slightly "too rich" in the mid to high 13:1 range idle will be dead steady and stable.

Additionally if you were to make changes in your F and L tables, and the sensor is turned on but you don't change the AFR target to deactivate closed loop, it'll slowly trim both short and long term trims. The problem with that is that those trims are not limited to the closed loop areas but are instead applied elsewhere in the map too. It effectively undoes any custom ECU work you have.

Add in a PC-V and then there's another layer of computer fighting the ECU which is already fighting the work you've done.
 
Hmm, I'm no expert, I just share my experience and try to help folks move forward until the calvary shows up. ;^)

1. These TuneECU maps are not meant to be used with PCV. You indicated it was connected and had a map loaded with Clavigers tune. Maybe disconnect PCV and try his again.
2. Are you doing the ISCV reset and 12 minute tune (12 minutes AFTER the fan first kicks on)? It will take the ECU awhile to get acquainted with a new tune.
3. O2 sensor needs to be OFF or it will be fighting the maps settings at lower speeds - double click and remove checkmark or right click and select disable before downloading.

As per Claviger wrt O2 sensor removal and bung hole plug:
First off, why it's best to remove it: They are a sensitive device, the temperature is controlled to be in a narrow window for max life span, moisture is the devil for O2 sensors and it's disabled in software and left in the bike moisture can kill it.

Second, as to why it's better turned off: Triumph tunes only use it at low RPM low opening, and they shoot for a 14.3ish AFR, nothing wrong with that to be honest. Read on how narrow and sensors work, they don't measure the afr, they count how many " too rich" or "too lean" incidents it has over a time span and add or remove fuel to compensate. The result is an engine that's never right, instead it swings back and forth across the target lean to rich, but never right.

The range of the swing depends upon how fast the ECU updates the sensor value and does the man. The rocket ECU does both sampling and math pretty slowly, the result is a chunk chunk chunk idle, when you turn it off and set the AFR slightly "too rich" in the mid to high 13:1 range idle will be dead steady and stable.

Additionally if you were to make changes in your F and L tables, and the sensor is turned on but you don't change the AFR target to deactivate closed loop, it'll slowly trim both short and long term trims. The problem with that is that those trims are not limited to the closed loop areas but are instead applied elsewhere in the map too. It effectively undoes any custom ECU work you have.

Add in a PC-V and then there's another layer of computer fighting the ECU which is already fighting the work you've done.
Right now my O2 sensor is hanging in the garage got rid of it this morning. The O2 gotta go.
 
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