2015 Roadster map with TORs.

Hmm, I'm no expert, I just share my experience and try to help folks move forward until the calvary shows up. ;^)

1. These TuneECU maps are not meant to be used with PCV. You indicated it was connected and had a map loaded with Clavigers tune. Maybe disconnect PCV and try his again.
2. Are you doing the ISCV reset and 12 minute tune (12 minutes AFTER the fan first kicks on)? It will take the ECU awhile to get acquainted with a new tune.
3. O2 sensor needs to be OFF or it will be fighting the maps settings at lower speeds - double click and remove checkmark or right click and select disable before downloading.

As per Claviger wrt O2 sensor removal and bung hole plug:
First off, why it's best to remove it: They are a sensitive device, the temperature is controlled to be in a narrow window for max life span, moisture is the devil for O2 sensors and it's disabled in software and left in the bike moisture can kill it.

Second, as to why it's better turned off: Triumph tunes only use it at low RPM low opening, and they shoot for a 14.3ish AFR, nothing wrong with that to be honest. Read on how narrow and sensors work, they don't measure the afr, they count how many " too rich" or "too lean" incidents it has over a time span and add or remove fuel to compensate. The result is an engine that's never right, instead it swings back and forth across the target lean to rich, but never right.

The range of the swing depends upon how fast the ECU updates the sensor value and does the man. The rocket ECU does both sampling and math pretty slowly, the result is a chunk chunk chunk idle, when you turn it off and set the AFR slightly "too rich" in the mid to high 13:1 range idle will be dead steady and stable.

Additionally if you were to make changes in your F and L tables, and the sensor is turned on but you don't change the AFR target to deactivate closed loop, it'll slowly trim both short and long term trims. The problem with that is that those trims are not limited to the closed loop areas but are instead applied elsewhere in the map too. It effectively undoes any custom ECU work you have.

Add in a PC-V and then there's another layer of computer fighting the ECU which is already fighting the work you've done.

So please treat me as total DUMDUM......and here what I got from this message as an action plan for me:

1. The O2 sensor has to be disabled in both the maps i.e. Claviger one and HAnso one.......when I open the maps in Tune ECU, Claviger has Q2 checked and Hanso one has it unchecked......So for any of these map my first action should be to disable that option, right?

2. secondly, yes my PCV is connected with zero values all over, so you are saying disconnect the PCV all together i.e. unplug it from the main harness, then plug the O2 sensor eliminator that is inside the right cover?????

3. after that, I would have to unplug the O2 sensor from the main exhaust pipe that is after the header and before the TORs....if I I do that then where do I get the plug for filling that gap?

and yes I was doing the ECU 12 minutes tune...however I forgot to reset adaptation for Claviger one but did do that for Hans map.....
it will be great if someone through in the picture of the O2 sensor that needs to be taken out and the plug that needs to go in its place, please????
 
So I slipped the TORS on the stock place....applied the sealant....started the bike....after few minutes saw fumes coming from the joints where I applied the sealant....turned the bike off to let it dry.....is it normal or do I have to open them again and apply the sealant again? Cos the sealant packing days let it dry for an hour and then let it stand for 24 hrs????

Curious why the use of "sealant"?
Never needed it on my Roadster exhausts.
 
Curious why the use of "sealant"?
Never needed it on my Roadster exhausts.
They say it stops the popping or backfiring at deaccleration.....saw few videos on youtube that exhaust gasket sealant is needed when playing with mufflers....even though when I dismounted the stock pipes that were all clean no signs of any sealant....but my used TORS that i bought had orange coloration due to previous sealant.
 
Sensor: Best i could do with heat shield on. Basically it's the long thingy screwed into the back of the header pipe before it splits into the tail pipes. Can't miss it.
IMG_4198[1].JPG

Plug for zee bung hole:
280-1814_A_V1.jpg
 
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thanks.....that what i though was the senor....can I buy the plug from local autozone? or auto parts shop.....or do I have to take the sensor with me to match the pug?

Also, the sensor comes out and detaches form the wire behind or do I have to trace the wire and take out the complete thing??? where does it feed in on the other end?
 
They say it stops the popping or backfiring at deaccleration.....saw few videos on youtube that exhaust gasket sealant is needed when playing with mufflers....even though when I dismounted the stock pipes that were all clean no signs of any sealant....but my used TORS that i bought had orange coloration due to previous sealant.

Interesting, I never heard such a thing.
Well, anyway, it should not hurt anything . . .
Just to be a smart-ass, I must comment that "deceleration" is the word for "deaccleration". :p :inlove
 
Interesting, I never heard such a thing.
Well, anyway, it should not hurt anything . . .
Just to be a smart-ass, I must comment that "deceleration" is the word for "deaccleration". :p :inlove
thanks for the correction I just looked it up, you are right..............atleast I got one thing right today:)
 
So please treat me as total DUMDUM......and here what I got from this message as an action plan for me:

1. The O2 sensor has to be disabled in both the maps i.e. Claviger one and HAnso one.......when I open the maps in Tune ECU, Claviger has Q2 checked and Hanso one has it unchecked......So for any of these map my first action should be to disable that option, right?

2. secondly, yes my PCV is connected with zero values all over, so you are saying disconnect the PCV all together i.e. unplug it from the main harness, then plug the O2 sensor eliminator that is inside the right cover?????

3. after that, I would have to unplug the O2 sensor from the main exhaust pipe that is after the header and before the TORs....if I I do that then where do I get the plug for filling that gap?

and yes I was doing the ECU 12 minutes tune...however I forgot to reset adaptation for Claviger one but did do that for Hans map.....
it will be great if someone through in the picture of the O2 sensor that needs to be taken out and the plug that needs to go in its place, please????
Just saw the video on ISCV adjustment or reset.......that's a total news for me..........now I have to searh that as well....I thought it was simple as just loading any map and 12 minute tune??????this is getting interesting:)
 
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