Will the Roadster Relay Recall Fit the R3T?

You're all heart, Mike. Between you and Ed, I'm sure there will be enough people to man at least one fire extinguisher. And take videos for the insurance adjusters.

The other cost came from the PC-8 fuse block I was going to install in order to keep from hooking a bunch of stuff directly to the batt. I currently have the batt tender/heated gear hooked directly to the batt (they use the same pigtail and only one operates at a time). I bought a GPS harness from Triumph and it hooks directly into the wiring harness under the tank. Prior to that purchase, I was thinking it had to go straight to the battery (or PC-8 ). That leaves the EB kit and a hookup for a Stebel (or similar) horn/compressor setup. Three direct-to-batt hookups, total.

Unless I go for some kind of obnoxious stereo system or want to punk it up with a DVD player, The PC-8 would be pretty underutilized. I haven't checked out any of the options I would find for a PC-8 substitute that would be a better fit from a marine electronics outfit. I just haven't got that far. I suppose I can always retrofit a fuse block. First, I have to get happy with the h.p. mods and the absence of an airbox. I'm running a bit ahead of the curve on this. It's just that I keep reading about all the failed ignition switches with at least one or two a month on this forum. I'm waiting for the shoe to drop, even though I may have one of the good ones. Add to that my reluctance to do things electrical and I may be on the fence for a while.
 
The EB headlight and fuse block are very easy installs. I'd guess an hour or so. When you install your filters you can move your overflow tank to the air box. I routed the hose from the radiator through the existing air intake plenum. You can then screw the fuse block into one of the stock air filter cover holes, nice and neat.

If you're going to wait until you knock over that liquor store, make sure you take your car when you do the job. Hate to imagine you running from the heist only to find that your ignition switch picked a very unfortunate time to fail.
 
The other cost came from the PC-8 fuse block I was going to install in order to keep from hooking a bunch of stuff directly to the batt.
Good idea. I've done something similar but I'm going to redo it as I've run out of positions. I rather like this setup
5026.jpg


I does have a lid.

5026cov.jpg


Two sets of feeds - so one set can be switched - the other always live. Though I cant actually think of anything I want to leave live.
Ratings: 30A per fuse, 100A per bank. Overkill never hurts when it comes to electricity.

Stg.33
 
If you're going to wait until you knock over that liquor store, make sure you take your car when you do the job. Hate to imagine you running from the heist only to find that your ignition switch picked a very unfortunate time to fail.

What's your phone number, Harry. Just in case it does fail and I need someone to go my bail.

Good idea. I've done something similar but I'm going to redo it as I've run out of positions. I rather like this setup
5026.jpg


The PC-8 has eight slots with only a few of them switched. For me, that's overkill and I'd be leaving a bunch of them blank and unused. I think I'm looking for a fuse block with only four slots. I just can't think of anything else to hook up other than the combination batt tender/heated gear, EB headlight kit, and big horn/compressor. And that still leaves one slot left on a four-slot fuseblock. The phone charger goes in the aux. power outlet.

Your unit shown has twelve slots and you want more? That makes me think of the old days with Russian "fishing trawlers" off the U.S. coast (or other coastlines of interest) where an unassuming little fishing boat has enough electronics on board to create it's own geological magnetic anomaly. Does the Spanish government know about this, Chris?

Again, I've got some time to ponder and discuss this with the fish over some adult beverages and cheap cigars.
 
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Did you also buy one of the $33 relay kits to go with the fuse block?

I've looked at the offerings from the marine supply guys. The one that almost everyone carries is this one:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ue+Sea+Systems+ST+Blade+6+Circuit+Fuse+Blocks

It comes in 6 or 12 circuit models for less than $50 shipped. It has a bus for ground, but nothing for switched circuits. Now, I'm functionally brain-dead when it comes to things electrical. I don't know how valuable a switched circuit would be on the bike, since I don't know anything about wiring. If switched circuits are a good thing to have, the PC-8 is the better value. If switched circuits are not a big deal, one of the marine units may be better bang for the buck. I also think the PC-8 may be as good or better in their waterproofing than the marine stuff I've seen.

In either case, how necessary is the addition of the relay circuitry between the fuse block and the batt? Wouldn't a big, fat, in-line fuse between the fuse block and the batt do the same thing?
 
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Your unit shown has twelve slots and you want more? That makes me think of the old days with Russian "fishing trawlers" off the U.S. coast (or other coastlines of interest) where an unassuming little fishing boat has enough electronics on board to create it's own geological magnetic anomaly. Does the Spanish government know about this, Chris?.
My current fuse block has far less. 6 I think. But I like to buslinked bank concept - far less wire.

But in my modified system. Each headlight filament would have a fuse (and relay) - that's 4 to start with. Add Gi-Pro, 3rd speedo, gps speed sensor, satnav power, additional high beam lights (1 per filament) - and to come is the power commander 5.

And of course there's the InfraRed floodlight lasers and night vision goggles to consider. Don't tell me you don't use NV.
 
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