What Clavinger said, April 21, 2014

[1olbull]

If only I could find a decent tuner anywhere near Virginia.

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Fai...a33e17fa140ac!2m2!1d-122.1634582!2d47.7542651

 

[Joesmoe]

Now that's funny . . . NOT

 

[Claviger]

So I've recently started playing with TuneECU again, it's currently running my bike after transposing from TuneBOY with NO issues. My reasons for the switch back will be apparent in the near future, but there is a good one.

Lush is dead right, a custom tune is best, I'll go further and say it's necessary if you want to get the best mileage your bike is capable and make all the power the bike can safely!

It seems the "over 5800" RPM issue was actually 5300 not 5800, and, it CAN be tuned out, but it's not straight forward because the tables will max out and stop letting you add fuel even though you need more than it will allow.

There is a work around, but it's finicky and stupid and I won't detail it.

My recommendation still stands, in MY opinion, as delivered, TuneECU is incapable of providing enough fuel for a header,intake bike without counter-intuitive fiddling.

 

[Neville Lush]

What about installing some of your cams Nev ? Don't you have a variety of types for street and track ?

I have many different grinds for different applications, but the guy asked about a STOCK set up.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Please tell us about your cam grinds. What can be achieved with each type ?

 

[Neville Lush]

Ok... there are what I term street cams, to drop into an otherwise stock motor. Freer exhaust and air filter needed to achieve proper benefits. Then a pair to suit 9.7 comp, but stock valve gear, then a pair to suit 10.2 comp to 10.5 comp, with stock valve gear. Also to suit stock valve gear, there are sets for stock motor with supercharger, and two sets for stock valve gear with higher comp and supercharger. All of these cams will assume good exhaust and air filter. If you wish to run no filter, that's your pidgeon. I find dirt reduces the power more than air filters. All cams previous suppose a rpm limit of 7000 max with stock valve parts. With a spring/retainer change there are another two sets depending on compression. This takes the rpm to 7600 ( and a bit more if the engine needs it). With shim under bucket conversion and stock size or larger valves I have two main sets I use depending on comp and I do one special grind which I only use if doing the head here, due to set up with .475lift. Also two grinds for supercharger with over 420 lift and different duration for F/A. A set of cams like the ones Mitzy has works great with 10.2-10.5 comp and less than 7500rpm. Smooth and torquey, better than a stocker, but still over .420lift (shim under). After a lot of work/research etc the cams for use under 7000 and with 10.5 pistons,like on my site will go in without indexing,like the street cams,although this assumes a good/new/low mileage cam chain. The highest comp I use with stock valve gear and associated lift cams is 10.5 unless I have the bike here, to index the cams. After having shipped cams about the place everywhere, I have found there are plenty of folk who think they can do this and not many really can. Back to tuning a bike for me at present, cheers Nev.

 

[albertaduke]

Ok... there are what I term street cams, to drop into an otherwise stock motor. Freer exhaust and air filter needed to achieve proper benefits. Then a pair to suit 9.7 comp, but stock valve gear, then a pair to suit 10.2 comp to 10.5 comp, with stock valve gear. Also to suit stock valve gear, there are sets for stock motor with supercharger, and two sets for stock valve gear with higher comp and supercharger. All of these cams will assume good exhaust and air filter. If you wish to run no filter, that's your pidgeon. I find dirt reduces the power more than air filters. All cams previous suppose a rpm limit of 7000 max with stock valve parts. With a spring/retainer change there are another two sets depending on compression. This takes the rpm to 7600 ( and a bit more if the engine needs it). With shim under bucket conversion and stock size or larger valves I have two main sets I use depending on comp and I do one special grind which I only use if doing the head here, due to set up with .475lift. Also two grinds for supercharger with over 420 lift and different duration for F/A. A set of cams like the ones Mitzy has works great with 10.2-10.5 comp and less than 7500rpm. Smooth and torquey, better than a stocker, but still over .420lift (shim under). After a lot of work/research etc the cams for use under 7000 and with 10.5 pistons,like on my site will go in without indexing,like the street cams,although this assumes a good/new/low mileage cam chain. The highest comp I use with stock valve gear and associated lift cams is 10.5 unless I have the bike here, to index the cams. After having shipped cams about the place everywhere, I have found there are plenty of folk who think they can do this and not many really can. Back to tuning a bike for me at present, cheers Nev.

so which model are mine???? as they came with the pistons ..just curious.

 

[Neville Lush]

Hi Patrick, yours are the second ones mentioned above the street cams. Made for 10.5 comp. Good for smooth torque, safe to 7000 with stock valve gear.

 

[foxviewnet]

Seems to me that Clav did a lot of work with ECU only to abandon it for Tune Boy I believe, yet everywhere I go on the forum, currently, in new posts it's first reccommendation is to tune your ecu with Tune ECU.
Download one of the many tune available from Hanso (get better soon and twist again!) or anybody that is willing to share a tune that is close to your set up, or proceed to PCV and get a dyno tune, or PCV+ Auto tune.

Only one reason and one reason only that 99% of the people on this or any other forum use TuneECU over Tuneboy is the price it is hard to beat free, I have Tuneboy for my 2005 Rocket but use TuneECU for my 2011 roadster.

Free and very quick to acquire.

 

[hoopla]

My recommendation still stands, in MY opinion, as delivered, TuneECU is incapable of providing enough fuel for a header,intake bike without counter-intuitive fiddling.

Thanks everybody for the inputs, Sooo, given the above, the key for me on my bike is that I'm not doing a header now, maybe an intake, TORs, sounds like Tune ECU will work for me. I can beg a tune from others here and try them, then go PCV as I have a tuner about 2 hrs away, who from at least 2 sources is very good at tuning.

If others in Maine or vacinity aren't aware, Moto Milano in Windham Maine http://www.motomilano.com/media/MotoMilano.wmv does PCV tuning.

:Hoopla