Washer Lingo...


Living Legend
Jul 8, 2007
Fredericksburg, VA
I'm about to perform my first oil change on E-III and have poured over all the threads on this and other sites for hints, tips and tricks. One item keeps popping up that I want to make sure that I understand before turning any wrenches. E-III is an '06 Std Roc so all of the threads indicate 3 drain plugs. I'm Ok with that. However, there is differing lingo used for the washer that goes on the drain plugs. Some are referring to them as "compression", others call them "crush" washers. If they are what I'm thinking of, I've always referred to them as "bevel" washers. Are they all the same thing?

What I refer to as a "bevel" washer looks like a normal flat washer with the exception that the inside edge around the hole is displaced vertically when the washer is laying on the bench. In other words, the outside edge is flat on the bench while the inside edge is raised off the bench a small amount. Kind of like a very flat cone. Does this describe what everyone is talking about?

If so, do these have to be replaced at every oil change?

Also, can I simply go down to the local hardware store (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc) and purchase a bag full of the correct size?

Thanks for your advice.
They are pretty flat. Pretty light too. Probably some kind of aluminum alloy. I think you would be alright reusing yours. I have reused mine and Busajack has reused his five times now. Plus I doubt you will find a replacement in the hardware store that is 1- the right alloy 2- the right inner and outer diameter. There is also an o-ring that can be reused.

I have never replaced the washers on any of my oil changes on the R/3. They appear to be of the flat standard variety and nothing special. I have never had a leak. Don't be surprised if you get less oil out of the rear sump when you drain and be careful pulling the drain plugs, the washer will fall off and end up in the drain pan. Easy job, takes about 15 to 20 minutes.
I've not replaced the washers in 3 changes and with this type of washer I see no reason to. Although I can be persuaded.

Your description of the washers is perfect.
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Aluminum Case

I have seen this type of washer application with aluminum cases before. I think that if one could see inside the intent when engineered...we would find that the "soft" washer combined with the torque specification for the plug diameter, would hedge against us guys who tend to overtighten to insure that we have no oil leak. If the "crush" of the washer works as designed it will help assure that the plug is tight and will not leak.
I am not an engineer but that is my best guess. I do replace the washer because of the preceeding information. I don't want a stripped out oil plug in the block:mad:
I would rather spend my "serious" money on eye candy bling for the bike...:D SB.
Well there you go from a man that knows. thanks SB! I'll invest in a bag of 'em:bch:

Clearly the domed center, there's got to be a refined word for it, suffers a crush with time. I'll certainly inspect closer. And by not over torquing and following the recommended amount. What amount is that?? I once remarked that was a terribly high amount. Unnecessary in my book and less new washers required.
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Just three at a time would probably suffice. You might want to order an o-ring at the same time. O-rings get twisted, cut by pan threads, rolled, etc. again very inexpensive part to make sure the FBG is operating as planned by Triumph Engineering. ;) SB.
O ring or Omazing Gracie?

What 'O' ring? I ain't got no 'o' ring. I've got 2 aluminum flat washers, aluminum alloy, probably T2. I just take a flat bastard cut file and run the washers of the file a few times and re-install them.

The sump plate on the Rocket is a lot more forgiving that the pressure cast aluminum sump on the T100. Get a little heavy handed with the drain plug on the T100 and you'll be replacing the sump because the casting cracks. Not pretty.:eek: